2002 Rear window cab leak
#1
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2002 Rear window cab leak
What is the best approach to take on this matter? There is no sliding window. I have called the dealership and the mechanic told me to save money and buy waterproof silicone. He said new model F-150's have this problem but apparently it happens to all, new and old(I have read posts). He also said it is the 3rd brake light and that's what they repair and replace frequently at the shop. Is it easy to fix myself cause when I take the 3rd brake light out, I still can not see where the leak would be. Is the big plastic trim that surrounds the back windshield easily removable? There is also a gap easily seen between the rubber trim on the plastic molding and the metal of the actual cab. The gap is widest above the 3rd brake light and makes contact with the truck closer to the cab corners. Useful advice appreciated.....
#3
I have a sliding window that was leaking.
The previous owner siliconed the crap out of the trim surrounding the rear window. Obviously, that didn't fix the problem.
I took it to a glass shop and paid $75. They took the glass out, scraped off the old crumbly OEM material, checked for frame cracks (found none) and reseal with fresh windshield specific caulk. Problem solved.
As it was explained to me, the trim piece in the back serves no purpose other than to hide the void formed by the window and the frame. Interestingly, the window is removed from the inside, not the outside. Anyway, the window seals deteriorate over time and water finds its way in regardless of what you do to the trim.
Do it right. Otherwise you're going to be like me and trying to figure out how to remove two tubes of stubborn silicone from the top of the cab.
The previous owner siliconed the crap out of the trim surrounding the rear window. Obviously, that didn't fix the problem.
I took it to a glass shop and paid $75. They took the glass out, scraped off the old crumbly OEM material, checked for frame cracks (found none) and reseal with fresh windshield specific caulk. Problem solved.
As it was explained to me, the trim piece in the back serves no purpose other than to hide the void formed by the window and the frame. Interestingly, the window is removed from the inside, not the outside. Anyway, the window seals deteriorate over time and water finds its way in regardless of what you do to the trim.
Do it right. Otherwise you're going to be like me and trying to figure out how to remove two tubes of stubborn silicone from the top of the cab.
Last edited by bipolardave; 01-01-2011 at 10:40 AM.
#4
I have a sliding window that was leaking.
The previous owner siliconed the crap out of the trim surrounding the rear window. Obviously, that didn't fix the problem.
I took it to a glass shop and paid $75. They took the glass out, scraped off the old crumbly OEM material, checked for frame cracks (found none) and reseal with fresh windshield specific caulk. Problem solved.
As it was explained to me, the trim piece in the back serves no purpose other than to hide the void formed by the window and the frame. Interestingly, the window is removed from the inside, not the outside. Anyway, the window seals deteriorate over time and water finds its way in regardless of what you do to the trim.
Do it right. Otherwise you're going to be like me and trying to figure out how to remove two tubes of stubborn silicone from the top of the cab.
The previous owner siliconed the crap out of the trim surrounding the rear window. Obviously, that didn't fix the problem.
I took it to a glass shop and paid $75. They took the glass out, scraped off the old crumbly OEM material, checked for frame cracks (found none) and reseal with fresh windshield specific caulk. Problem solved.
As it was explained to me, the trim piece in the back serves no purpose other than to hide the void formed by the window and the frame. Interestingly, the window is removed from the inside, not the outside. Anyway, the window seals deteriorate over time and water finds its way in regardless of what you do to the trim.
Do it right. Otherwise you're going to be like me and trying to figure out how to remove two tubes of stubborn silicone from the top of the cab.
#5
I have a sliding window that was leaking.
The previous owner siliconed the crap out of the trim surrounding the rear window. Obviously, that didn't fix the problem.
I took it to a glass shop and paid $75. They took the glass out, scraped off the old crumbly OEM material, checked for frame cracks (found none) and reseal with fresh windshield specific caulk. Problem solved.
As it was explained to me, the trim piece in the back serves no purpose other than to hide the void formed by the window and the frame. Interestingly, the window is removed from the inside, not the outside. Anyway, the window seals deteriorate over time and water finds its way in regardless of what you do to the trim.
Do it right. Otherwise you're going to be like me and trying to figure out how to remove two tubes of stubborn silicone from the top of the cab.
The previous owner siliconed the crap out of the trim surrounding the rear window. Obviously, that didn't fix the problem.
I took it to a glass shop and paid $75. They took the glass out, scraped off the old crumbly OEM material, checked for frame cracks (found none) and reseal with fresh windshield specific caulk. Problem solved.
As it was explained to me, the trim piece in the back serves no purpose other than to hide the void formed by the window and the frame. Interestingly, the window is removed from the inside, not the outside. Anyway, the window seals deteriorate over time and water finds its way in regardless of what you do to the trim.
Do it right. Otherwise you're going to be like me and trying to figure out how to remove two tubes of stubborn silicone from the top of the cab.
Been there, done that also. As Dave said, you can remove the trim piece, along with the third brake light with no effect on the window leaking. Except through the mounting holes.
Get some Butyl tape,remove the glass,clean it up and re-seal it right the first time.
I am also still removing silicone from around my cab.
#6
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This Sounds Right
That was the answer I was looking for, thanks. I am on the right track. Ford dealership referred me to a glass specialist in town (don't know why they wouldn't take it on themselves). Glass shop said over $100 to reseal the glass. But almost $400 if the glass breaks to replace and seal. If they are a specialist in the matter, wouldn't u think they could accomplish the first scenario?.....I am showing the silicone adhesive the door based on your troubles also.....bad silicone....you're bad....
#7
$85 dollars. just had it done by a place galled glass masters. this perticular store had the worst service iv ever had. took 5 hours to do the window cuz the techs were lazy bastards. they said it would take 1 hour. they left paper towel in the truck. i sat in the waiting room for a few minutes before i picked up the truck and watched them let doors (not my doors but others) slam into other cars.
anyways. if it leaks they get it back.... over and over and over until its sealed. i cant wait till it rains to see if its fixed =)
anyways. if it leaks they get it back.... over and over and over until its sealed. i cant wait till it rains to see if its fixed =)
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#8
I think most dealerships job it out to local companies, the dealership that I got my truck from did. Took them 5 tries to get it right, kept using urethane and eventually it'd start leaking again.
#9
I have had the same problem for about 3 years now and was waiting to take it to a window shop to get it fixed but didnt have extra money. So i called the window shop and asked how they did it and they said a cheap easy way for me to do it is to take out the back window and put silicon where it meets the truck and ever since ive done it... NO LEAKING
#10
2015 F150 Crew cab 4x4
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I resealed mine with butyl tape last year took about two hours start to finish, you do remove all plastic interior peices I took the headliner out. The original sealent comes off window pretty easy. This was my first time and it has not leaked since, less than $25 to fix