2002 4.6 rough idle
03-26-2011, 08:59 PM
#23
FORD~ Found On Race Day
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Originally Posted by SWC Custom
Forgot bout that lol
Last edited by SWC Custom; 03-26-2011 at 09:03 PM.
03-26-2011, 09:18 PM
#24
Single overhead cam (sohc) motors which is what you have has a camshaft in each head and the lobes push on rocker arms that act as a lever to depress the valves. They each have sprockets and are timed to the crankshaft through individual chains around two sprockets back to back on the nose of the crank on the same key way as the crank pulley. The cams go around twice to every crank rotation, which gives you your four strokes.
dual overhead cam (dohc) motors have 4 cams, two in each head. Basically the same idea but 4 valves can move more air and fuel than two valves. More air and fuel more power.
dual overhead cam (dohc) motors have 4 cams, two in each head. Basically the same idea but 4 valves can move more air and fuel than two valves. More air and fuel more power.
03-26-2011, 10:02 PM
#25
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Ohh ok I get how it works so I have to pull the heads to get to the valves can I just take the chain Ohh and in bolt it and take the head and cam and everything out as one ( not the plugs, coils, valve cover, ECT) but like the internal stuff under the valve cover ?
03-26-2011, 10:14 PM
#26
After you take the valve covers and crank pulley off you have to take the front cover off. Under there you can see the all the timing gears and timing chains. you don't have to mark anything on the timing chains because they already have darker colored links built in to them and the cam sprockets have dimples they line up with. The timing chain tensioners can be unbolted to take the pressure off the chains then you can take the chains off. The tensioners have tabs that need to be pried out while you compress them with a c-clamp then there are two holes that line up that you put a paper clip in to keep them compressed until you put them back in. Now you need a valve spring compressor tool, which is a little lever contraption that goes on a ratchet and uses the cam while it's still installed to depress the valve spring so you can remove the valve retainers. I imagine you can get one from Napa or another parts store. I'm sure Lisle makes one and I know OTC does cause they make all the Ford special tools. With the valve retainers removed you can pull the valve out and replace it. At that point it's up to you if you want to do all the valve seals or do a complete valve jobs. I'd recommend both cause you've already gone this far. Going back in you need another special tool to hold the cam in the right position while you time it to the crank.
03-26-2011, 10:15 PM
#27
Oh yeah obviously you have to pull the intake off first too considering it's attached to the heads. And you have to undo the cats from the exhaust manifolds. And get a new head gasket and bolts.
03-27-2011, 07:39 AM
#28
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Ok thanks I was just wondering because I haven't gotten a chance to talk to the guy at the garage yet but he has had a few apart so he knows what he is doing... Dose the motor have to be pulled?
03-27-2011, 03:46 PM
#29
No you can leave it in the mounts but unfortunately you do have to basically do everything else. They're not bad if you have the cam holding tool and the valve compressor. As long as he goes by the book and doesn't short cut.
