Paul Dilley

I didn't change any of the wiring... I didn't cut or replace any wires.... but, if I were to do any wiring changes... I would solder and heat shrink...

I will get the sensor out later today and get a pic... am I looking to see if the wheel lines up with the sensor?

97badass

Yes

Paul Dilley

Here is a pic from the sensor port... took me a while to get it back on the lift... sorry



Looks like it lines up to me... but what do I know...

knight6019

This probably sounds to simple but double check the engine ground, I took me two hours to figure out what my newly swapped engine wouldn't start... Grounded with a different wire and it's ran well for five years

Paul Dilley

Ok, update on this stupid thing...

Pulled the timing cover again... used the old lower chain sprocket as it was different from the one that came in the timing kit... I also used the timing sensor gear thing... still no start.

To recap:

I have spark, fuel pressure, timing is correct, compression is there, all connections have been checked, grounds have been checked, timing sensors swapped out (cam & crank)

It's not throwing codes, the theft light is not on when cranking

Seriously frustrating... I have spent countless hours on this POS and I cannot find any reason it shouldn't run....

97badass

I have another question, did you put the cam gears on the correct side?

Paul Dilley

Yes, verified that yesterday as well... cam gears are on the correct side, the solid one is on the driver side with the sensor block...

Jbrew

Are you sure the fuel rail has totally purge ? Reason I say this there's been plenty of guys in the past who have had the same problem with the truck after something major has been done. Drives yuh crazy. One occasion it took one user 2 days to get it to fire, another 3 days before it fired right up after many attempts.

Sometimes they don't purge right away, stubborn. So what you have to do is cycle the key until the pump stops, don't attempt to start, cycle the key 10 times or so then start. Key on , pump charges the line, key off, key back on, pump charges the line repeat. That will purge it quickly.

This may not be the prob, worth a shot anyway. Also, it doesn't matter if you see fuel at the rail shrader and you don't want to purge that way because that doesn't pump up the injectors. Another thing, don't crank for 3 seconds at a time. At 4 seconds the PCM shuts the rail down and it's not going to start regardless. So just use the the method I first described.

Paul Dilley

Ok, so I tried the purge procedure... 15 times key on, wait for pump, key off... repeat... no joy... however after doing that (and being the first attempt to start today) it did stumble like it was trying to start... but no go....

So, Just to try it, I used some starter fluid directly into the throttle body... just to see if it would fire... and nothing... just cranks....

ug...

97badass

Check the inertia switch inside the cab, it's possible when you pulled the engine you tripped it