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UPDATE: This weekend I installed new spark plugs (motorcraft, NGK are garbage), 1 wire (There was a miss on one cylinder), and I primed and installed the new oil pump. It started smoother, But there was still no oil pressure. It ran for about 5 seconds idled to about 900 rmp and stalled out in about 5 seconds. I attempted to turn the shaft that sticks out of the timing cover and into the oil pump , it does not move... which indicates to me that it is in contact with the Pinion/gear at the end of the cam. Now i'm at a loss for words. or ideas.
I've attached a picture of the oil pump. theres some kind of valve at the bottom of the pump (circled in red) could this be involved in the proccess?
Just another thought. Shout I have turned the engine over, distributor unplugged, plugs out, and injectors off for about 30 seconds? let oil get through the engine before starting it?
Last edited by cainmin; 04-25-2016 at 09:10 AM.
Reason: Added a picture
a lot of oil should have run out of the pump when you took it off if it was pumping. No oil means it isn't getting into the pump which puts the problem in the pick up tube area. If fresh motor oil ran out of the pump then look to the bypass for the problem. Take the pump back off and see if the pump shaft moves when the engine is turned over by hand. Have someone help you turn the motor over and watch the pump drive. If it doesn't move it is broken. If it moves a little bit and stops it is broken. You have probably done things right but have a further problem you didn't notice and it is back to basics. A pressure test would show a leak if there is one. It is not wise to start up the motor again since it has run maybe 30 seconds with out oil pressure. Turning it by hand with the ignition disconnected is best. Friction now can cost you a lot more money if you do foolish things here.
If you have assembled the bypass wrong or it is stuck open you will not have oil pressure. Again you should see a lot of motor oil when you take it apart. If things appear to be mostly dry you are screwed until you find out what is not working properly. U may need to look at the camshaft ? but do not try to run this motor until you have your problem fixed. Possibly a 4.2L mechanic is going to be your cheapest choice in the long run.
An engine oil pump is probably the simplest form of pump and it works if it is sealed and connected. Either it is not connected, not turning, or there is a leak due to the pick up or the main pressure bypass. U primed it so it is sealed internally and should pump unless it missing an o-ring. Rule that out. U didn't disassemble the drive so there is number one look to and may not be connected either to the pump or the cam. Your pick up should be sealed where it bolts on if you did it right. Your main bypass is another question mark that a mechanic will answer quickly, it may be clogged/stuck with gasket/dirty material.
Last edited by papa tiger; 04-30-2016 at 10:26 AM.
Well I pulled the timing cover yesterday, it was as dry as a popcorn fart. So I'm gonna clean down in the relief valve, put a new one in and Re assemble. The distributor shat spins, and the drive gear on the front of the cam is brand new cause the old one had some broken teeth ( I replaced this during the initial rebuild) I will just have to be extra careful during Re assembly. Making sure it all connects right. I will keep you updated. And the oil pick up tube was cleaned and Re assembled to the specific torque specified in the Chilton book. So I've ruled that out.
That info makes it certain to be in the drive of the pump area if there is evidence no oil was circulating anywhere. Is this your area that you changed parts in?
post pictures of the exact changes, just follow directions to put them from your phone to the thread in the Go Advanced button area. Pictures will bring about expert conclusions and good advice here. I like I advised earlier you are in an area where you will ruin that motor if you start it up now and the problem is not fixed.
Last edited by papa tiger; 05-01-2016 at 11:47 AM.
That info makes it certain to be in the drive of the pump area if there is evidence no oil was circulating anywhere. Is this your area that you changed parts in?
post pictures of the exact changes, just follow directions to put them from your phone to the thread in the Go Advanced button area. Pictures will bring about expert conclusions and good advice here. I like I advised earlier you are in an area where you will ruin that motor if you start it up now and the problem is not fixed.
replaced the timing chain, tensioner, and distributor drive gear.
new parts in
timing cover: that distributor spins nicley and oil flows freely in and out
you can see wear marks on the check valve. but the chilton book reccomends that the cap sits 0.010" below the mating surface of the timing covrr... I dony have a depth micrometer with me so im gonna have to usefeeler guages, (I have new valve that came with the new pump) that distributor is the old one. I didn't replace it.
check to see if you are blocking a portal off if pump is pumping when you turn the gear by hand. Do you have this before you put the cover on ?
No portals blocked. Everything went back together and when I turn the crank by hand the shift spins as it should. Now, I'm wondering the possibility of the pump not being able to draw any oil because of the air in the pick up tube, if it's just sacking air then it's not gonna fill, right? I have a friend that mentioned something about a mechanism that attaches to where the sending unit goes, and it attaches to a compressor with a regulator, pumps oil through an attached canister at about 30 PSI and fills all the valleys before trying to turn it over again. Any idea on what that thing is called or where I can get one?
04-23-2016, 07:26 PM
