1997 F150 Air Conditioning Diagram
08-03-2010, 11:31 AM
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1997 F150 Air Conditioning Diagram
Does anyone know where I can find a diagram of the Air Conditioning System on a 1997 F150 (5.4L)? I am looking for a list of the componants and their location on the truck. (Lines, Accumulator, Fuses, cycling switch, cutoff switch, etc.)
08-03-2010, 02:55 PM
#2
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I don't have a diagram but I just serviced one.
1. Low pressure access valve - on the accumulator tank side (tank is on the passenger side firewall behind the electrical junction box - darn you Ford!).
2. Low pressure switch - on the accumulator - top.
3. High pressure cut off - on the high pressure hose near the condensor just below the high pressure access valve.
4. Orifice - inside the high pressure hose fitting where it connects to the condensor.
That's l messed with but that should be all you need.
1. Low pressure access valve - on the accumulator tank side (tank is on the passenger side firewall behind the electrical junction box - darn you Ford!).
2. Low pressure switch - on the accumulator - top.
3. High pressure cut off - on the high pressure hose near the condensor just below the high pressure access valve.
4. Orifice - inside the high pressure hose fitting where it connects to the condensor.
That's l messed with but that should be all you need.
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camperjim (09-08-2012)
08-04-2010, 08:36 AM
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I don't have a diagram but I just serviced one.
1. Low pressure access valve - on the accumulator tank side (tank is on the passenger side firewall behind the electrical junction box - darn you Ford!).
2. Low pressure switch - on the accumulator - top.
3. High pressure cut off - on the high pressure hose near the condensor just below the high pressure access valve.
4. Orifice - inside the high pressure hose fitting where it connects to the condensor.
That's l messed with but that should be all you need.
1. Low pressure access valve - on the accumulator tank side (tank is on the passenger side firewall behind the electrical junction box - darn you Ford!).
2. Low pressure switch - on the accumulator - top.
3. High pressure cut off - on the high pressure hose near the condensor just below the high pressure access valve.
4. Orifice - inside the high pressure hose fitting where it connects to the condensor.
That's l messed with but that should be all you need.
Thanks for the info. This will help greatly when I start looking at it this weekend.
Do you know if the pressure switches have a valve at the connection? Can I remove the switch without evacuating the system?
08-04-2010, 02:07 PM
#4
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'Do you know if the pressure switches have a valve at the connection? Can I remove the switch without evacuating the system? "
The Low and High pressure access ports both have a valve just like a tire (shraeder valve) and if done quickly, when you replace the low pressure clutch switch you lose almost no R134A unless the valve is defective and stuck open which is very rare. The switch just screws off and you screw another one in (don't overtighten or you will crush the O ring). I don't know about the high pressure cut off switch but I assume it is the same procedure but I doubt you will need to mess with that. If you take the switch off you must replace the O-ring or make sure the switch comes with a new O ring. A set of a bunch of O rings of different sizes is only $ 5.00 from Advance or AutoZone. Actually you should replace every O-ring where you break the connection of the hoses or fittings. The compressor O-rings are purchased individually because they are so big.
So yes, you can replace the low pressure clutch cycling switch without releasing all the R134A.
If you are going to rebuild the AC system or make repairs for the love of all that is sacred and holy get a set of AC manifold gauges (59.00 - 89.00 at the parts stores) or you cannot do it right or check/diagnose the real performance of the AC system.
The Low and High pressure access ports both have a valve just like a tire (shraeder valve) and if done quickly, when you replace the low pressure clutch switch you lose almost no R134A unless the valve is defective and stuck open which is very rare. The switch just screws off and you screw another one in (don't overtighten or you will crush the O ring). I don't know about the high pressure cut off switch but I assume it is the same procedure but I doubt you will need to mess with that. If you take the switch off you must replace the O-ring or make sure the switch comes with a new O ring. A set of a bunch of O rings of different sizes is only $ 5.00 from Advance or AutoZone. Actually you should replace every O-ring where you break the connection of the hoses or fittings. The compressor O-rings are purchased individually because they are so big.
So yes, you can replace the low pressure clutch cycling switch without releasing all the R134A.
If you are going to rebuild the AC system or make repairs for the love of all that is sacred and holy get a set of AC manifold gauges (59.00 - 89.00 at the parts stores) or you cannot do it right or check/diagnose the real performance of the AC system.
08-04-2010, 03:52 PM
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Theres a chart in one of theres posts look around.
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewt...583318#p583318
http://www.fordf150.net/forums/viewt...583318#p583318
