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Iduno, - if you've actually checked out everything, it can only be one other thing IMO and that's the GEM. But you have to be thorough. Uknow, wiring diagram and some chasing things down...that process of elimination thing.
This could get pricey at the dealership dependent upon who you have working on it. That's what makes learning to do these things yourself worth it. My multi meter has saved me a bunch of cash in the past.
6 months! It's been what, 3 years for me lol. I put 20-30 miles on it every 3 months, but it never leaves the driveway lol.
Oh my lord. It's not going to the dealership it's going into the auto shop. I will get around to looking into it further on Friday I am going to take the boot off between the door and the cab and start there.
Oh my lord. It's not going to the dealership it's going into the auto shop. I will get around to looking into it further on Friday I am going to take the boot off between the door and the cab and start there.
Why, did you find a bad wire a bad motor or switch wire? It's easier to simply check resistance and/or currant to and from the component in question.. That's all a shop will do to a point before throwing parts at it. But yea, if your not familiar with that, a shop may be the better choice.
Why, did you find a bad wire a bad motor or switch wire? It's easier to simply check resistance and/or currant to and from the component in question.. That's all a shop will do to a point before throwing parts at it. But yea, if your not familiar with that, a shop may be the better choice.
ALRIGHT!!! Figured it's a wire in the rubber boot between the door and the cab. Pulled on the harness from the door side and hit the window switch and bam EVERYTHING worked. Jbrew do you know if there's a connector right inside of the cab after the boot to unplug the harness and pull it through for sake of ease? Also cranked the torsion keys, it looks great level!! Going in for an alignment on Monday.
I looked into doin that once, - To clear the boot as you say, I believe the harness is pulled from the door first , then thru the boot into the cab. It's a little bit of work and depending upon model year, you may have to cut 4 wires to do that. I have my doors off the currently, - fixing the floor and rocker panels on this one...what's left of them. But yea, it's a little work. I haven't looked into pulling wires and connectors from the boot the opposite way, - so you'll have to check that out. Since everything began working when you yanked on them, yea do as a I describe below or similar and check all connectors for slipped pins and corrosion.
But mann, check those grounds right behind the kick panel. From what I recall, there's one down low and another half way up. Do the same with the passenger side, - right behind the kick panel. The ground bolts are colored green/8mm heads. This is probably the first thing you should do with type of concern...go over all the grounds. I know where they all are by heart lol..ate up.
Was that you I sent common harness troubleshooting info in the past ? If not, PM your email and I send it. Also do you have diags, schematics for your model year ? That's an absolute must. Yea PM me with what you could use. Perhaps I'll post some of that in the thread if I can.
I believe I fixed it. The lower ground behind the kick panel was very dirty and I believe it was not making a good contact. It works flawlessly now!!!
Great , yea I recall going thru all the grounds in the cab , under the cab (cab to frame on the pass side) , then the grounds on the firewall by the battery and the two up front next to the radiator. Once I was finished, I had things lighting up inside the cab that I didn't know had little lights inside lol. My horns even sounded manly,- compared to the duck calls they made prior.
The grounds get compromised with time. I removed the bolts, wire wheeled the paint off at the ground contact points along with the bolts and wire connectors, put it all back together and topped it off with paint to keep the corrosion down, - I haven't had an issue since.
Great , yea I recall going thru all the grounds in the cab , under the cab (cab to frame on the pass side) , then the grounds on the firewall by the battery and the two up front next to the radiator. Once I was finished, I had things lighting up inside the cab that I didn't know had little lights inside lol. My horns even sounded manly,- compared to the duck calls they made prior.
The grounds get compromised with time. I removed the bolts, wire wheeled the paint off at the ground contact points along with the bolts and wire connectors, put it all back together and topped it off with paint to keep the corrosion down, - I haven't had an issue since.
Maybe that's why my horns sound like a freakin prius horn??? Seriously that causes that???????
07-01-2015, 07:36 PM
