Z7What

Haven't read this entire thread but $425 isn't bad at all for a DYNO tune. It's crazy for a mail order but not DYNO.

I drove 650miles ONE way and paid $450 for my tune for my supercharged 03 5.4L tune.

But to say it's better isn't exactly true. You can datalog everything the tuner can and send him the log and he can make adjustments off that. Which is basically no different than a dyno tune.

Dynos are used to tune cause it safer to do 100+ MPH on the dyno than street! There has been low 10sec Lightnings tuned this way and never been on the rollers once. The tune will only be as good as the datalog.

And honestly street tuning is better if you ask me because dynos only simulate real world conditions. Simulate being the key word. Nothing can simulate real world load, heat, wind drag, temps, etc as well as real world. Dynos are a tuning tool, driving and logging after a dyno tune should be done to make sure everything is were it should be.

Wayne

Larsen00

The thing I've always been concerned about is how many of the people who write these tunes are doing their testing a 5000 feet above sea level? Then again if you tune it for this altitude how will it run if you road trip to the coast.

Corylax18

I agree with Z7What, actual Road/Track testing is the very best, but I don't have the time/resources of a Race Team so a few DYNO sessions are the best I can do. Haha. I do plan on road testing and tweaking the tune a bit though.


Larsen- Non of the guys doing the computer tunes can fully take the altitude into account. The computers in our trucks are programmed to maintain a certain Air-Fuel-Ratio. Since this is highly dependent on how much OXYGEN the engine is getting NOT how much air, it would be almost impossible to take into account the lower Oxygen percentage of our air with one of these computer tunes.


Once you start adding CAI's and exhausts, the amount of Air and Also oxygen can start to change outside the boundries of the Stock PCMs limits causing codes to trip.


From what I understand you have to essentially "Trick" the MAF sensor at altitude so it thinks its getting less air (less oxygen) than it actually is to account for the lower Oxygen percentage. Ill let you guys know my results!

Larsen00

Yeah, keep us posted. I don't mind paying more if it's a better tune, just a little concerned about the system's ability to adapt to lower altitude if it's set up for our thinner air.

NothinSpecial

Not to change the subject too much, I just moved here from Texas about a month ago. I'm in Parker.

That being said, when I got my current truck (in February) my thoughts were, "I've only needed 4wd when I was being childish"....... Then I decided to move to Colorado


I can make a new thread for this if no one here knows the best solution to the following question.

I live in Parker and Commute to Castle Rock, when the snow starts falling should I get chains/cables or get snow tires? My dad lives in New York and had a 2wd for years, he just had snow tires put on the rear tires for the winter months and got by.

Tires are more expensive and I then have to pay a shop to swap the tires (and pray they don't F em up) and I'll have to find a place to store them for the summer.

Also, should I just run chains/cables on the back tires or all 4?

hallenfe

What part of TX. I just loved here from OK. I'll be going back in about a year and a half.

mwcjr159

Just my opinion but although Colorado is a mountain state, the winters on the foothills and plains are usually very mild. The sun shines here alot and typically any snow/ice we get is melted from the pavement a few hours after it falls.

Of course now I said that this will be a record setting/Icy/snowy winter. :-P

I have driven a 2wd work truck for years around Denver with stock tires, traction control and a couple sand bags in the back with no real issues. The biggest scare comes from other drivers that either drive like its dry pavement or are scared to death and drive 5 miles an hour when it rains.

That being said if you feel unsafe on the snow or ice. Snow tires can give you a little better grip, if you decide you need them I would try to find some xl steel wheels and get them mounted on those. Less risk of damaging rims that way.
Ive only ever needed chains heading into the mountains. Not a bad thing to have just incase but if you ever use them put them on all 4 tires.

NothinSpecial

Round Rock, just north of Austin.

Thanks for the input, I was gonna ride it out for a few weeks once the white stuff starts falling and see how it goes. As for going into the mountains my girl friend traded in her 5.0 Stang for a Subaru so we're set there.

I'm not worried about them damaging the rims, its the tires I'm worried about - I'd love an excuse to get rid of these boring stock wheels

I'll look into pricing on chains, like you said it wouldn't hurt to keep em tucked away just in case.

Seener84

I can't see when you would need chains for a commute. I have chains that I keep in the truck when I'm hunting in the mountains. I think you'll be fine, maybe one day you'll have to stay at home from work...

ColoradoCruiser

I've been driving in CO for about 30 years now (native) and have yet to need chains. I currently live in a rural area about 12 miles east of Parker, and have found that the cars do better with snow tires on the rural roads, but when I lived in the metro area I never had snows and had no problems.

For the snows on the cars I did find it a lot easier to get an extra set of rims, so easy to swap out. Discount Tire will do the swap free if they're already on rims.

I've had the truck for 3 winters, and haven't put snows on it and it's been fine. Sometimes out here in the boonies I put it in 4wd, but usually only when the roads are iced over - which happens quite often after a snow.

I'd say drive carefully during the first couple of storms and decide what you need based on that. I-25 is fairly well maintained, although I hate driving on it in the snow because too many other drivers have no clue how to drive in snowy conditions.