Wiring new lights
12-16-2014, 09:19 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Wiring new lights
I have some new led lights coming in the mail and before I get them I would like to get some info on how to wire them. I am putting them in my dog box. I used to just wire them into the trailer light connector but then that got annoying having to turn the running lights on all the time to be able to use them. Is there something in the fuse box I can plug it into that is always hot and put a switch in the middle or is it best to just run it all the way to the battery
12-17-2014, 07:15 AM
#2
Mark
iTrader: (1)
I believe the middle pin on your 7 pin connector is always hot..still need a switch so..I would run to the batt.
12-17-2014, 10:45 AM
#3
Senior Member
Middle wire is reverse lights... The black wire at your 7-pin should be hot. You need to install a relay into the fuse box if it hasn't be installed already on your truck (its used for powering trailer brakes).
I'm not sure if it is hot while the truck is off. Might want to check with your voltmeter. I'm pretty sure it is always connected to the battery. I use this to charge the battery in my slide-in camper while driving and unplug the 7 pin when I park.
I'm not sure if it is hot while the truck is off. Might want to check with your voltmeter. I'm pretty sure it is always connected to the battery. I use this to charge the battery in my slide-in camper while driving and unplug the 7 pin when I park.
12-17-2014, 11:56 AM
#4
Mark
iTrader: (1)
thought the center pin was for RV battery charge...on when key is on...my bad
12-17-2014, 12:30 PM
#5
Senior Member
I also don't recall if it's hot with ignition off or not... I'm thinking it's not though otherwise the relay would be always energized drawing power (might as well not have the relay). Update: According to the C439A (Ford-F150 connector for our truck) diagram it's switched so it may work for what you need. Note: The C439A connector diagram does not show the notch so it's hard to tell the pinout.
As for running a direct line to the battery, if you do I always tell people fuse it and as close to the battery as possible. In your case, since it's just LED lights I wouldn't worry about wiring directly to the battery, you'd be fine with the trailer battery connector. You're not likely going to draw much power.
You'd be far better to use the trailer connector if you can because if you run directly from the battery, you either need a switch or you need to add a relay from ignition (or tie into ignition but I wouldn't really go that route). If the trailer connector battery is switch like techrep wrote, that'll save you a lot of trouble.
As for running a direct line to the battery, if you do I always tell people fuse it and as close to the battery as possible. In your case, since it's just LED lights I wouldn't worry about wiring directly to the battery, you'd be fine with the trailer battery connector. You're not likely going to draw much power.
You'd be far better to use the trailer connector if you can because if you run directly from the battery, you either need a switch or you need to add a relay from ignition (or tie into ignition but I wouldn't really go that route). If the trailer connector battery is switch like techrep wrote, that'll save you a lot of trouble.
Last edited by homer; 12-17-2014 at 03:45 PM.
12-17-2014, 01:58 PM
#6
Mark
iTrader: (1)
Pin 5 is what I was thinking...trailer tow battery charge (switched)...
12-17-2014, 10:09 PM
#7
Senior Member
You guys got all worked up over the 7way plug you never gave an answer to the op question. The answer is no there is not any wire that is hot all the time. You will need to run a new wire from the battery with a fuse.
Why would you put a relay in a wire that is hot all the time. By the op own storie the lights were connected the the running light pin on the trailer plug and that was a pain cus the lights had to be on for there lights to work. A relay from the ignition would mean you would have to have your keys with you too so even more of a pain.
Not saying it was not good info but was of no point to help wire the lights
Why would you put a relay in a wire that is hot all the time. By the op own storie the lights were connected the the running light pin on the trailer plug and that was a pain cus the lights had to be on for there lights to work. A relay from the ignition would mean you would have to have your keys with you too so even more of a pain.
Not saying it was not good info but was of no point to help wire the lights
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12-17-2014, 10:54 PM
#8
Senior Member
Woooowwww, chill out there bud!
Well for starters, to your credit, yes, you're right, I missed the line that he said "always hot", I didn't see it so I apologize for that. It happens, we all make mistakes. Many of us respond and help a lot of people on here and we all have day jobs, so we might miss one or two things the odd time. We're not all perfect, and I'm sure you're not either. I will be the first to admit I skimmed over and saw the other posts.
As for your second sentence, there's actually a few reasons it was suggested: 1. it was based on switched hot, 2. nobody said anything about the "running light" pin on the trailer plug where the lights had to be on to work, they actually meant the "battery charge" pin which is hot with ignition on (but not what the OP wanted LOL), 3. a relay from ignition is, exactly that, but converting low load into high load (but again, not applicable to this situation).
Anyways, I want to worry about solving the OP's issue. It's good you corrected so thank you for that. I just want to add one thing, the fuse. Some people skip this but I think it's very important for safety on the basis of risk of fire.
So, back on topic here: So OP, you're going to need constant. Let's clarify on that. In that case, you're best bet is to run a wire directly from the battery as 05jakev noted. In that case, I always recommend fusing as close to the battery (not just anywhere) as possible for several reasons, the obvious being an accidental short or overload, the other being if the wire becomes crushed in any type of collision, there's less risk of fire (the fuse will blow). Then you'll need of course a switch.
Well for starters, to your credit, yes, you're right, I missed the line that he said "always hot", I didn't see it so I apologize for that. It happens, we all make mistakes. Many of us respond and help a lot of people on here and we all have day jobs, so we might miss one or two things the odd time. We're not all perfect, and I'm sure you're not either. I will be the first to admit I skimmed over and saw the other posts.
As for your second sentence, there's actually a few reasons it was suggested: 1. it was based on switched hot, 2. nobody said anything about the "running light" pin on the trailer plug where the lights had to be on to work, they actually meant the "battery charge" pin which is hot with ignition on (but not what the OP wanted LOL), 3. a relay from ignition is, exactly that, but converting low load into high load (but again, not applicable to this situation).
Anyways, I want to worry about solving the OP's issue. It's good you corrected so thank you for that. I just want to add one thing, the fuse. Some people skip this but I think it's very important for safety on the basis of risk of fire.
So, back on topic here: So OP, you're going to need constant. Let's clarify on that. In that case, you're best bet is to run a wire directly from the battery as 05jakev noted. In that case, I always recommend fusing as close to the battery (not just anywhere) as possible for several reasons, the obvious being an accidental short or overload, the other being if the wire becomes crushed in any type of collision, there's less risk of fire (the fuse will blow). Then you'll need of course a switch.
Last edited by homer; 12-17-2014 at 11:07 PM.
12-17-2014, 11:03 PM
#9
Senior Member
Woooowwww, chill out there bud!
Well for starters, to your credit, yes, you're right, I missed the line that he said "always hot", I didn't see it. It happens, we all make mistakes. Many of us respond and help a lot of people on here and we all have day jobs, so we might miss one or two things the odd time. We're not all perfect, and I'm sure you're not either. I will be the first to admit I skimmed over and saw the other posts.
As for your second sentence, the relay was based on the not-constant hot wire so THAT'S WHY
. I'm going to say you're wrong here. The relay is correct if we based it on the ignition switch configuration so it's not wrong. It's just not applicable to his situation now that we've cleared up missing the "always hot" case. So it is still useful to maybe someone else.
Anyways, it's good you corrected, but you didn't need to be a rude about it. A simple, "hi, I think you guys mistakenly missed the hot" would have worked. We're here to help each other out.
So OP, you're going to need constant. Let's clarify on that. In that case, you'll need to run a wire directly from the battery. In that case, I recommend fusing as close to the battery as possible for several reasons, the obvious being an accidental short or overload, the other being if the wire becomes crushed in any type of collision, there's less risk of fire (the fuse will blow).
Well for starters, to your credit, yes, you're right, I missed the line that he said "always hot", I didn't see it. It happens, we all make mistakes. Many of us respond and help a lot of people on here and we all have day jobs, so we might miss one or two things the odd time. We're not all perfect, and I'm sure you're not either. I will be the first to admit I skimmed over and saw the other posts.
As for your second sentence, the relay was based on the not-constant hot wire so THAT'S WHY
. I'm going to say you're wrong here. The relay is correct if we based it on the ignition switch configuration so it's not wrong. It's just not applicable to his situation now that we've cleared up missing the "always hot" case. So it is still useful to maybe someone else.Anyways, it's good you corrected, but you didn't need to be a rude about it. A simple, "hi, I think you guys mistakenly missed the hot" would have worked. We're here to help each other out.
So OP, you're going to need constant. Let's clarify on that. In that case, you'll need to run a wire directly from the battery. In that case, I recommend fusing as close to the battery as possible for several reasons, the obvious being an accidental short or overload, the other being if the wire becomes crushed in any type of collision, there's less risk of fire (the fuse will blow).
12-17-2014, 11:05 PM
#10
Senior Member
Hey 05jakev, it's ok!!!!! I actually edited. I'm a little jumpy today as I had a bad day at work. Anyways, you did pick up on what we didn't so it's good you did. It's actually funny that we all jumped on the trailer plug
. When I posted the diagrams, the funnier part was I missed the constant hot so much that I was purposely looking for switched hot (ooops!).
Last edited by homer; 12-17-2014 at 11:08 PM.