Window rolls down, takes a dozen tries to go up
#1
Window rolls down, takes a dozen tries to go up
So...
My work truck (2007 f150) is a single cab with a window issue.
The drivers side goes down, and takes a coupe clicks to get it back up.
I replaced the entire regulator setup and still the same issue.
The motor clicks, and I can hear it every time, but it takes a dozen attempts before it decides to roll back up.
I took the old regulator motor and hooked it up to a cordless drill battery and that thing is smooth, in both directions.
What part do I replace next? I'm out $90 for the regulator, and I'd like to keep it cheap instead of replacing all parts.
Thoughts? Ideas?
Thanks
Panda
My work truck (2007 f150) is a single cab with a window issue.
The drivers side goes down, and takes a coupe clicks to get it back up.
I replaced the entire regulator setup and still the same issue.
The motor clicks, and I can hear it every time, but it takes a dozen attempts before it decides to roll back up.
I took the old regulator motor and hooked it up to a cordless drill battery and that thing is smooth, in both directions.
What part do I replace next? I'm out $90 for the regulator, and I'd like to keep it cheap instead of replacing all parts.
Thoughts? Ideas?
Thanks
Panda
#2
Senior Member
Window rolls down, takes a dozen tries to go up
First I would take the switch apart and clean the contacts. There's a nice thread on how to do that. You should be able to find it by searching. With the switch apart, look for any obvious signs that it's broken.
If cleaning it doesn't work, and it doesn't look broken, you can replace the switch, they are cheap.
Check the wiring. The wires inside the boot between the door and body can break causing weird issues. If the wiring all looks good, I would use a multimeter to test the continuity of the wires going from the switch to the regulator, and the ground wire(s). Of course make sure you have power too.
If cleaning it doesn't work, and it doesn't look broken, you can replace the switch, they are cheap.
Check the wiring. The wires inside the boot between the door and body can break causing weird issues. If the wiring all looks good, I would use a multimeter to test the continuity of the wires going from the switch to the regulator, and the ground wire(s). Of course make sure you have power too.
#3
Thanks,
I've seen this exact response while searching another thread.
I took apart the switch box and cleaned everything that wasn't a circuit board. No change. The circuit board looks good and no burnt/discolored pieces found.
Is this a common issue? Does this happen frequently? Is a new switch the answer? Do the switches fail? Do I get a new switch or a whole new box?
Help a Panda out. Please.
I've seen this exact response while searching another thread.
I took apart the switch box and cleaned everything that wasn't a circuit board. No change. The circuit board looks good and no burnt/discolored pieces found.
Is this a common issue? Does this happen frequently? Is a new switch the answer? Do the switches fail? Do I get a new switch or a whole new box?
Help a Panda out. Please.
#4
Senior Member
Window rolls down, takes a dozen tries to go up
It's somewhat common.
I don't know if replacing the switch will definitely work you.
You already know the regulator and motor are good. So the only things left are the switch and wiring. If the switch looks ok, then I would check out the wiring next.
I don't know if replacing the switch will definitely work you.
You already know the regulator and motor are good. So the only things left are the switch and wiring. If the switch looks ok, then I would check out the wiring next.
#6
I had this exact same issue when I got my truck used a couple of months ago. I just replaced the switches all together. You can get them on various websites for like 8 dollars a piece. So I'd recommend starting there, just replace them entirely.
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#8
That black anaconda like thing that goes from the door to the cab?
I broke down and bought a new switch box. Cost $40.
All the walk throughs for switch dissembely I found were for 4 door models, and it is different for a the 2 door.
I bought this vehicle used about 30k miles ago. It's been great...
Thanks for the direction. I appreciate it.
Panda
#9
Senior Member
The rubber boot inside the driver door jamb where the wires run through. Sometimes wires with pinch in half due to opening and closing the door so much. I had to fix 3 wires in my door jamb that were completely separated
#10
Solved
Yeah,
The switch was the faulty piece.
I read walk throughs on rebuilding the 4 switch version (4 door). I couldn't figure out how to do it with the 2 door-2 switch piece.
$40 on Amazon. Done.
The switch was the faulty piece.
I read walk throughs on rebuilding the 4 switch version (4 door). I couldn't figure out how to do it with the 2 door-2 switch piece.
$40 on Amazon. Done.