What Mods to get some power back?
The following users liked this post:
MGD (04-26-2015)
04-26-2015, 08:13 PM
#12
04-26-2015, 08:41 PM
#13
Correct. Gears return lost torque but will never "add" HP and make your transmission work easier (or how it was working with stock tires). A tuner will add HP/torque. An exhaust system will make it louder and add at best minimal hp (5hp, maybe, unless you do headers and high flow-cats).
04-26-2015, 08:41 PM
#14
Senior Member
Gears aren't returning any horsepower, they are changing the mechanical advantage. It's like leverage. The longer the handle, the easier it is to remove a stubborn nut with a ratchet.
04-26-2015, 09:01 PM
#15
Correct. It was a loosely used term to state the larger wheels/tires "lost HP" and the gears were "returning the lost HP". Easiest way for me to learn specifics.
04-27-2015, 10:23 AM
#16
Senior Member
I would say go with the tuner first because that is less expensive than spending all your money in one bunch with new gears plus with the money you save and the hp gains you experience will tide you over before you get the gears
04-27-2015, 10:26 AM
#17
Senior Member
The investment in gearing will extend the life of your transmission as well as returning the effective gear ratio to what it was with stock tires.
Gears first, then tuner, etc, especially if you're planning on keeping the truck for a while.
Gears first, then tuner, etc, especially if you're planning on keeping the truck for a while.
Last edited by gone postal; 04-27-2015 at 11:07 AM. Reason: fat fingers.
04-27-2015, 11:06 AM
#18
Senior Member
don't hammer me for being in the wrong forum but... from a purely performance perspective:
When making the 'mechanical advantage' calculation - IE what gearing would return you to the stock final gear ratio - all you are doing is accounting for tire size. That's fine in a mustang, but you will still be at a seat of the pants deficit in a truck because you typically are also incurring a decent weight penalty. It has been my experience that you need to go one size past mechanical advantage to make up having to spin the extra unsprung weight - if you know that your new setup is only 3-4lbs heavier than the stock setup you obviously shouldn't worry about it, but if you picked up 15+ lbs per corner you will feel it.
example - if running 4.56:1 returns you to whatever was your stock final drive ratio, go with 4.88:1 gears to move the extra weight around. I'm not saying you need 4.88's, that's just the example I used. 4.56:1 may very well be the factory ratio+1 I describe above.
Yes, this will negatively impact hwy mileage but it will also improve around town mileage because it allows the vehicle to take off from a stop easier.
I'm running 37's and 4.88 gears. I get an avg 12.6mpg driving like a juvenile delinquent. My avg stock 4:10 and 35's was 14.5. My 37's are significantly heavier than the factory 34.5's so I'm taking a fairly hard MPG hit but performance wise I can roast the 37's.
something to think about.
When making the 'mechanical advantage' calculation - IE what gearing would return you to the stock final gear ratio - all you are doing is accounting for tire size. That's fine in a mustang, but you will still be at a seat of the pants deficit in a truck because you typically are also incurring a decent weight penalty. It has been my experience that you need to go one size past mechanical advantage to make up having to spin the extra unsprung weight - if you know that your new setup is only 3-4lbs heavier than the stock setup you obviously shouldn't worry about it, but if you picked up 15+ lbs per corner you will feel it.
example - if running 4.56:1 returns you to whatever was your stock final drive ratio, go with 4.88:1 gears to move the extra weight around. I'm not saying you need 4.88's, that's just the example I used. 4.56:1 may very well be the factory ratio+1 I describe above.
Yes, this will negatively impact hwy mileage but it will also improve around town mileage because it allows the vehicle to take off from a stop easier.
I'm running 37's and 4.88 gears. I get an avg 12.6mpg driving like a juvenile delinquent. My avg stock 4:10 and 35's was 14.5. My 37's are significantly heavier than the factory 34.5's so I'm taking a fairly hard MPG hit but performance wise I can roast the 37's.
something to think about.
Last edited by WarSurfer; 04-27-2015 at 11:12 AM.
04-27-2015, 02:08 PM
#19
Senior Member
don't hammer me for being in the wrong forum but... from a purely performance perspective:
When making the 'mechanical advantage' calculation - IE what gearing would return you to the stock final gear ratio - all you are doing is accounting for tire size. That's fine in a mustang, but you will still be at a seat of the pants deficit in a truck because you typically are also incurring a decent weight penalty. It has been my experience that you need to go one size past mechanical advantage to make up having to spin the extra unsprung weight - if you know that your new setup is only 3-4lbs heavier than the stock setup you obviously shouldn't worry about it, but if you picked up 15+ lbs per corner you will feel it.
example - if running 4.56:1 returns you to whatever was your stock final drive ratio, go with 4.88:1 gears to move the extra weight around. I'm not saying you need 4.88's, that's just the example I used. 4.56:1 may very well be the factory ratio+1 I describe above.
Yes, this will negatively impact hwy mileage but it will also improve around town mileage because it allows the vehicle to take off from a stop easier.
I'm running 37's and 4.88 gears. I get an avg 12.6mpg driving like a juvenile delinquent. My avg stock 4:10 and 35's was 14.5. My 37's are significantly heavier than the factory 34.5's so I'm taking a fairly hard MPG hit but performance wise I can roast the 37's.
something to think about.
When making the 'mechanical advantage' calculation - IE what gearing would return you to the stock final gear ratio - all you are doing is accounting for tire size. That's fine in a mustang, but you will still be at a seat of the pants deficit in a truck because you typically are also incurring a decent weight penalty. It has been my experience that you need to go one size past mechanical advantage to make up having to spin the extra unsprung weight - if you know that your new setup is only 3-4lbs heavier than the stock setup you obviously shouldn't worry about it, but if you picked up 15+ lbs per corner you will feel it.
example - if running 4.56:1 returns you to whatever was your stock final drive ratio, go with 4.88:1 gears to move the extra weight around. I'm not saying you need 4.88's, that's just the example I used. 4.56:1 may very well be the factory ratio+1 I describe above.
Yes, this will negatively impact hwy mileage but it will also improve around town mileage because it allows the vehicle to take off from a stop easier.
I'm running 37's and 4.88 gears. I get an avg 12.6mpg driving like a juvenile delinquent. My avg stock 4:10 and 35's was 14.5. My 37's are significantly heavier than the factory 34.5's so I'm taking a fairly hard MPG hit but performance wise I can roast the 37's.
something to think about.
04-27-2015, 04:46 PM
#20
Senior Member
^^^ that will give you the mechanical advantage equivalent ratio - 'back to stock' as they say.
You then need to figure out the per corner (wheel and tire) weight increase over stock. If the weight gain is significant, my recommendation would be to step up one size to help spin the extra rotational mass.
So if the calculator above says 4.10:1 and you added say 15+lbs per corner, I would bump the gearing to 4.56:1
It doesn't take much increase in rotational mass to take away that 'snappy' feeling on acceleration.