LSU MykuL

I am installing the Viper 5901 LC3 on my 2008 f150 supercrew 5.4L V8. The Truck has stock keyless entry but NO stock alarm. I have the keyless entry working as well as the alarm as of now.

I had a few questions before i completed the installation i wanted to clarify and make sure the wires were even necessary. I cant find much information online and most of the info conflicts with other info i have found.

1. Where is the (H1/4) Light Flash Isolation Wire in the truck and is this necessary?

2. I found where it says the (H1/9) (-)200mA Dome Light Output is but it was not working, any ideas?

3. Is the (H1/12) (-)500mA Gound When Armed Output necessary, if so, where can i locate a good wire to use for this?

4. Where/Color is the (H3/2) (+)Fused (30A) Ignitiong 2 / Flex Relay Input and is this necessary?

5. Where is the (H3/3) Accessory Output? Says it controls the AC unit.

6. Where is the (H3/6) (+)(30A) Fused Ignition 1 Relay Input?

7. Do I need to use (H3/7) (+) Ignition 2 Flew Relay Output?

8. Do I need the (H3/9) (+)(30A) Fused Accessory/Starter Relay Input?

9. Where is the Neutral Safety Switch Input? Necessary?

10. Tachometer Input Wire, location, necessary?

11. Where is the (-)200mA 2nd Status/Rear Defogger wire?


I know there are quite a few questions but i wanted to list all that i was unsure about and see what kind of advice you guys may have to help me out, besides saying have it installed that is.

I greatly appreciate all the advice and help in advance!!

Thanks.

VanoFord

Take it to Best Buy. If you are having this many questions, you might be getting into more than you can chew. I say might, as I dont know you. But good luck. I bought this kit, looked at the instructions, and went to Best Buy the next morning.

electricd7

Actually, ask the same question at http://www.the12volt.com/installbay. Those guys are Pros and will get you to the finish line.

GATORB8

Couple questions so I look at the right diagrams:

1. Do you have auto headlamps?
2. Auto or manual A/C?
3. Power rear window?

Here's a pdf if the install guide if you don't have it: http://www.directeddealers.com/manuals/IG/Viper/N5702V_2008_08web.pdf

LSU MykuL

Thanks for the best buy refrence, i just find it hard to spend 600 on this system with install and bypass, i have spend 260 and am on the "home stretch" i like to think.

I am fine with doing this i just needed some help interpreting what they mean when they name specific wires. Like i said, the alarm and keyless are done, working flawless...its the remote start i want to be sure of before i go into the ignition harness.

GATOR:
1. i have auto headlamps but i did convert them to HID's...shouldnt alter with what you need to know though.

2. Manual A/C...wish i had auto though.

3. No power read window.

The truck was pretty basic when i bought it, power and cruise and not much more to be honest.

Posting on the12volt.com now, thanks for all your help thus far.

MarkY

That would be my decision as well. What did Best Buy charge you for the install?

LSU MykuL

I was 600 total but they dont sell the item outright so im not sure exactly how much the installation alone was, oh but that didnt include the installation cost for adding the bypass on, forgot about that cost as well, ill save over 300 total by the end if i had gotten best buy to do it. not to mention the horror stories i have heard from people having them install things...taking cars for drives, scratching, stains...not comfy with that. id rather just learn and do it myself so if something goes wrong later i can just simply repair it without taking it in.

youngjyg

1. is the parking light wire should be at the light switch.
2. is to the dome light to power it when you unlock the car should be at the drivers door floor plate.
3. just cut that thats so u can power a relay when the car is armed.
4. not sure if we have a 2nd ing but if we do it goes to that.
5.that goes to the accessory wire off the ignition wires.
6.goes to the main ing wire
7.thats the same as number 4
8.must be powered to run the remote start with 12v
9. just ground that out to metal its a must or it wont work at all
10. at the injectors in the engine bay its not the common wire but if u dont feel like running it u have to go to menu 3 #2(engine check mode it should be out of box at virtual tach which is good if not running it but when i put them in and didnt run the i did voltage.
11. if u have rear defroster that would go to the switch test each wire when the switch is off then on if it gets 12v when you turn it on then thats it.

By the way I worked at best buy for 3yrs installing these so if you have questions just pm me ill see if i can get you the wire color code for the truck from DEI, and if you dont think you can do it just take it some where you can mess up your pcm ecm etc.

VanoFord

I hear ya bout saving dough. But like the poster above me said, you can mess up your pcm/ecu and then guess what? you have to get it towed to the dealer and they have to reflash your truck (not cheap). I live in houston, and the Best Buy on hwy 6 and Westheimer will do the install for 300, + 90 to purchase the bypass. And you can wait there if you are worried them taking your truck (takes 4-5 hrs, get there for a saturday install early morning and you're out by lunch). good luck bro!

LSU MykuL

one more quick question, on the 5-pin remote start aux output, is this necessary to hook up?

1st wire - (-)200mA flex relay control output
2nd - (-)200mA accessory output
3rd - (-)200mA starter output
4th - (-)200mA ignition 1 output
5th - (-)200mA status output