Viper 5706V Alarm/Keyless/Remote Start Install with Pics
04-21-2014, 04:20 AM
#11
Senior Member
Personally, I'm picky so I really like to use the tach wire... even on the new vehicles that have smart start and other systems. This way the remote start truly knows the vehicle is running, especially with 2-way remotes.
You can use either the coil-on-plug (COP) wires, OR the fuel-injector wires. I used the fuel injector on mine. Basically the remote start is looking for a pulse. The easiest way to know the correct wire on pretty much most vehicles is (colors will be different of course), there'll always be 2 wires going to each fuel injector or coil. The common will always be the same color at each fuel injector (RD), or at each coil (RD-LG). This wire is basically joined across all injectors, or all coils respectively, so it is the NON-pulsed wire. This is why they say, DON'T use RED (fuel injectors) or RED/LIGHT GREEN (coil), it'll provide a useless signal. If you hooked up to it, it won't harm anything it just won't accept the signal because there is no pulse.
You're right, you'd be safer to use your amp power in this case than the BCM. I wasn't sure if you ran wires over to the ignition at the steering column or not. Again, there should be no harm in that.
You can use either the coil-on-plug (COP) wires, OR the fuel-injector wires. I used the fuel injector on mine. Basically the remote start is looking for a pulse. The easiest way to know the correct wire on pretty much most vehicles is (colors will be different of course), there'll always be 2 wires going to each fuel injector or coil. The common will always be the same color at each fuel injector (RD), or at each coil (RD-LG). This wire is basically joined across all injectors, or all coils respectively, so it is the NON-pulsed wire. This is why they say, DON'T use RED (fuel injectors) or RED/LIGHT GREEN (coil), it'll provide a useless signal. If you hooked up to it, it won't harm anything it just won't accept the signal because there is no pulse.
You're right, you'd be safer to use your amp power in this case than the BCM. I wasn't sure if you ran wires over to the ignition at the steering column or not. Again, there should be no harm in that.
03-14-2015, 10:02 PM
#12
Ok so I know this post is a little old haha. But I need help. Rather revise an old thread than to add more threads of the same topic.
Any who long story short I lost the only key to my truck and had to get a locksmith to cut me a new set of keys and I guess he reprogrammed my key code. Now my remote start doesn't turn my truck on. Does the viper alarm remote start need to relearn the code or something? I have the 5706v
Any who long story short I lost the only key to my truck and had to get a locksmith to cut me a new set of keys and I guess he reprogrammed my key code. Now my remote start doesn't turn my truck on. Does the viper alarm remote start need to relearn the code or something? I have the 5706v
03-15-2015, 07:50 AM
#13
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It depends on what kind of bypass module you have installed in you're truck, there are two kinds. The first kind does learn the code (RF signal) from one of you're keys. The second kind which I used, holds one of you're keys in the module brain and retransmites your RF singanl to you're RF reciver in you're key ignition.
What you need to do is, either call the shop that installed you're 5706 and ask them what kind of bypass module they installed, or find it you're self. The bypass module will be somewhere under you're drivers side dash board. There's a pic of mine on this forum labeled "DEI 556UW bypass module". It will have a wire coming from it to you're key receptacle in your steering column, there's a pic in here labeled "DEI 556UW bypass module antenna instal".
If you have the first kind that learns you're RF signal from you're new key, you will need to google the instruction manual for that module and figure out how to reprogram it. If you have the second kind of bypass module you will need to get another key made for you're truck and replace the key in the bypass module brain.
If it needs to be reprogramed the shop that installed you're 5706 should be able to do it for you. If you need a new key, check with the lock smith and Ford to see who is cheaper to make another key. I had ford make me two new keys, they charged 25 per key and 50 to program the keys.
Hope this helps
Larry
What you need to do is, either call the shop that installed you're 5706 and ask them what kind of bypass module they installed, or find it you're self. The bypass module will be somewhere under you're drivers side dash board. There's a pic of mine on this forum labeled "DEI 556UW bypass module". It will have a wire coming from it to you're key receptacle in your steering column, there's a pic in here labeled "DEI 556UW bypass module antenna instal".
If you have the first kind that learns you're RF signal from you're new key, you will need to google the instruction manual for that module and figure out how to reprogram it. If you have the second kind of bypass module you will need to get another key made for you're truck and replace the key in the bypass module brain.
If it needs to be reprogramed the shop that installed you're 5706 should be able to do it for you. If you need a new key, check with the lock smith and Ford to see who is cheaper to make another key. I had ford make me two new keys, they charged 25 per key and 50 to program the keys.
Hope this helps
Larry
03-15-2015, 02:28 PM
#14
Senior Member
I would try the simple relearn procedure first... (how to program an additional PATS key) - requires two unique programmed keys
1. Insert first key into ignition, turn ignition to on for at least one second
2. Insert second key into ignition, turn ignition to on for at least one second
3. Initiate remote start (with no keys in ignition) immediately and see if it starts. If it did, it's successfully programmed the third key (or should have).
1. Insert first key into ignition, turn ignition to on for at least one second
2. Insert second key into ignition, turn ignition to on for at least one second
3. Initiate remote start (with no keys in ignition) immediately and see if it starts. If it did, it's successfully programmed the third key (or should have).
03-15-2015, 09:50 PM
#15
I would try the simple relearn procedure first... (how to program an additional PATS key) - requires two unique programmed keys
1. Insert first key into ignition, turn ignition to on for at least one second
2. Insert second key into ignition, turn ignition to on for at least one second
3. Initiate remote start (with no keys in ignition) immediately and see if it starts. If it did, it's successfully programmed the third key (or should have).
1. Insert first key into ignition, turn ignition to on for at least one second
2. Insert second key into ignition, turn ignition to on for at least one second
3. Initiate remote start (with no keys in ignition) immediately and see if it starts. If it did, it's successfully programmed the third key (or should have).
Now I need to see about getting that glass break sensor. Dude wanted to charge me 25$ for something that took me 15 secs. He wants to charge me 40$ for the Glas break sensor, worth the hassel?
03-16-2015, 04:48 AM
#16
Senior Member
No worries. With our trucks they're pretty simple because our PATS system is fairly basic. When you get to some of the GM's and the Chrystlers or even new Fords it's much different.
As for hooking up a glass break sensor, it's very easy.... if you can easily access the alarm wiring. It should take +12V, ground, then output. You then basically tune it to keys (at least the DEI that I used). $40 doesn't sound bad though honestly if he's going to wire it and program it. For us here in Canada I think that price is basically the glass break sensor itself. Make sure your system takes alternate inputs.... if it's an alarm system though it should.
As for hooking up a glass break sensor, it's very easy.... if you can easily access the alarm wiring. It should take +12V, ground, then output. You then basically tune it to keys (at least the DEI that I used). $40 doesn't sound bad though honestly if he's going to wire it and program it. For us here in Canada I think that price is basically the glass break sensor itself. Make sure your system takes alternate inputs.... if it's an alarm system though it should.
Last edited by homer; 03-16-2015 at 05:03 AM.
03-16-2015, 08:24 AM
#17
No worries. With our trucks they're pretty simple because our PATS system is fairly basic. When you get to some of the GM's and the Chrystlers or even new Fords it's much different.
As for hooking up a glass break sensor, it's very easy.... if you can easily access the alarm wiring. It should take +12V, ground, then output. You then basically tune it to keys (at least the DEI that I used). $40 doesn't sound bad though honestly if he's going to wire it and program it. For us here in Canada I think that price is basically the glass break sensor itself. Make sure your system takes alternate inputs.... if it's an alarm system though it should.
As for hooking up a glass break sensor, it's very easy.... if you can easily access the alarm wiring. It should take +12V, ground, then output. You then basically tune it to keys (at least the DEI that I used). $40 doesn't sound bad though honestly if he's going to wire it and program it. For us here in Canada I think that price is basically the glass break sensor itself. Make sure your system takes alternate inputs.... if it's an alarm system though it should.
12-10-2023, 04:36 PM
#18
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How to shut off engine with 5706
Looks good, it's nice and clean there!
Just curious, did you solder any of the wires? couldn't tell in the pictures. If you haven't, for safety reasons you should try and solder at least the +12V, ignition, accessory, and tach wires (if using tach pickup) wires. Without, if the connection is too weak you could create high resistance and potentially a fire. As for the alarm inputs, the only bad part there is you could get false triggers if something moves of course.
The starter kill is nice to have but not entirely needed. You're supposed to split the wire as you mentioned then have the start out go towards the starter, then the starter in go towards the start signal from the ignition. By doing what you did will work fine, you're just not achieving the starter kill feature. For example, if you arm the truck right now and try to start it, the alarm will go off but it'll still start whereas mine won't. If you wire it backwards, it'll do opposite (only allow you to start with key when armed, not disarmed). You have the chipped key already which is probably better in some cases anyways. You did the right thing by hooking the DEI bypass up to the 200ma status out (so the chipped bypass isn't always activated - only during remote start thus retaining the chip key security).
As for your amplifier power, you're ok to use that just remember when you're remote starting you're sharing the load between a larger fuse (only after the key is inserted and switched to ON - this won't be for long). You still have the protection of the remote start fuses (2 @ 15 amp I believe) so it should be fine. It's not my preference but it shouldn't pose any issues as long as everything is fused
. You should always have a fuse under the hood close to the battery anyways in case of an accident or any type of short of your stereo wire so the fuse blows rather than having a fire start.
I can't remember the V5706 but I think it uses virtual tach. So it uses an algorithm based on alternator voltage and such. I actually switched my neighbours over to tach mode with a tach wire input because his car would start, think it wasn't running, shut off, try again, etc... Sometimes it would work, sometimes it wouldn't. Personally, I'm more a fan of using the tach wire especially to eliminate starter overrun (I've seen starters prematurely fail due to this). Many of the newer vehicles (including Ford) won't let you overrun the starter and if you even blip the key the computer will take over the starting process. Unfortunately for ours though, it's still the older style (at least mine is - 2005).
Sorry I hope this helps! Great job overall! If this was your first one, the first one is always the worst haha. Costs the most time, most painstaking, etc...
Just curious, did you solder any of the wires? couldn't tell in the pictures. If you haven't, for safety reasons you should try and solder at least the +12V, ignition, accessory, and tach wires (if using tach pickup) wires. Without, if the connection is too weak you could create high resistance and potentially a fire. As for the alarm inputs, the only bad part there is you could get false triggers if something moves of course.
The starter kill is nice to have but not entirely needed. You're supposed to split the wire as you mentioned then have the start out go towards the starter, then the starter in go towards the start signal from the ignition. By doing what you did will work fine, you're just not achieving the starter kill feature. For example, if you arm the truck right now and try to start it, the alarm will go off but it'll still start whereas mine won't. If you wire it backwards, it'll do opposite (only allow you to start with key when armed, not disarmed). You have the chipped key already which is probably better in some cases anyways. You did the right thing by hooking the DEI bypass up to the 200ma status out (so the chipped bypass isn't always activated - only during remote start thus retaining the chip key security).
As for your amplifier power, you're ok to use that just remember when you're remote starting you're sharing the load between a larger fuse (only after the key is inserted and switched to ON - this won't be for long). You still have the protection of the remote start fuses (2 @ 15 amp I believe) so it should be fine. It's not my preference but it shouldn't pose any issues as long as everything is fused
. You should always have a fuse under the hood close to the battery anyways in case of an accident or any type of short of your stereo wire so the fuse blows rather than having a fire start.I can't remember the V5706 but I think it uses virtual tach. So it uses an algorithm based on alternator voltage and such. I actually switched my neighbours over to tach mode with a tach wire input because his car would start, think it wasn't running, shut off, try again, etc... Sometimes it would work, sometimes it wouldn't. Personally, I'm more a fan of using the tach wire especially to eliminate starter overrun (I've seen starters prematurely fail due to this). Many of the newer vehicles (including Ford) won't let you overrun the starter and if you even blip the key the computer will take over the starting process. Unfortunately for ours though, it's still the older style (at least mine is - 2005).
Sorry I hope this helps! Great job overall! If this was your first one, the first one is always the worst haha. Costs the most time, most painstaking, etc...
Can someone tell me how to shut off the engine with the 5706? I have a campervan. I start it by having a relay connect the circuit of two wires. If the relay opens and breaks the circuit it doesn’t shut off the engine, it keeps running until the time set in the bitwriter is up.