Viper 5706V Alarm/Keyless/Remote Start Install with Pics
04-19-2014, 01:52 PM
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Viper 5706V Alarm/Keyless/Remote Start Install with Pics
Just did my install of a Viper 5706V remote start alarm in my 2005 F150 Crew Cab. I first wanted to say thank you to thisguyuknow for his post on installing a Viper 5704 in his F150, his detailed post, after I converted the wires from 5704 to 5706, was spot on and helped make my install really easy!! https://www.f150forum.com/f4/viper-5...l-pics-190454/
I went with his idea of installing the alarm brain next to the BCM behind the rear truck seat, it made installation very easy. My install was however a little different, since I had an amplifier already installed under my rear seat, so all my 12V constant positive and ground wires were spliced to my 8-gauge power and ground wires already available.
I bought my Viper 5706 for 229.00 and the DEI 556UW bypass module for 14.90 off ebay.
To remove the rear seat watch this video
Wiring diagram for 2004 to 2007 F150’s http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagr...8&link=Bulldog
Wiring:
24 pin harness:
(Pin 4 Black/Yellow) (200ma dome light) I did not hook this up, the dome light comes on as soon as you disarm do to the locks unlocking.
(Pin 5 Dark Blue) (200ma status out) Connected to the blue wire on the DEI 556.
(Pin 13 Black/White) (Neutral safety input) Connected to ground.
(Pin 15 Green) (Door trigger in) Connected this to the Black/Yellow and the Black/Pink on the BCM, using diodes. I did not connect to the rear doors because I have a crew cab and the front doors have to open before the rear doors, if you have a super crew cab with separate rear doors you will need to hook those wires up as well. I used the diode wiring diagram from Bulldog Security http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagr...0ISOLATION.pdf
(Pin 16 Brown/Black) (Break shutdown in) I did not hook this up.
10 Pin harness:
I ran these thought the door wire channel from the alarm brain to the ignition harness with about 15 feet of 14 gauge wire and a small gauge wire connecting the (24 Pin harness Pin 5 Dark Blue) (200ma status out) Connected to the blue wire on the DEI 556.
(Pin 2 Red/Black) (30 Amp fused 12V acc/starter) Connected this to my amplifier constant positive, “Thisguy youknow” hooked this to the Green/Yellow on the BCM.
(Pin 5 Red) (30 Amp fused 12V ign 1 in) Connected this to my amplifier constant positive, “Thisguy youknow” hooked this to the Green/Yellow on the BCM.
(Pin 6 Green) (Starter in key side of starter kill) I did not hook this up; I was a little confused about the green and violet wires on this harness. It kind of seamed like you were suppose to cut the Red/Light Blue wire on the ignition harness and connect it to the green and violet wires, but I found that just splicing the violet wire to the Red/Light Blue worked great. Any experience on this would help my curiosity.
(Pin 7 Violet) (Starter out car side of starter kill) Connected this to the Red/Light Blue wire on the ignition harness.
(Pin 8 Orange) (Accessory out) Connected to the Black/Light Green on the ignition harness.
(Pin 10 Pink) (Ign 1 in/out) Connected to the Dark Blue/Light Green on the ignition harness.
Door Lock Harness:
(Pin 1 Blue) (500ma unlock output) Connected to Pink/Light Green on the BCM.
(Pin 3 Green) (500ma lock output) Connected to Pink/Yellow on the BCM.
Main Harness:
(Pin 1 Red) (Constant 12V Positive) Connected this to my amplifier constant positive, “Thisguy youknow” hooked this to the TN/WH on the BCM.
(Pin 2 Black) (Constant 12V Negative) Connected this to my amplifier constant negative, “Thisguy youknow” hooked this to the BK on the BCM.
(Pin 3 Brown) (Siren out) Connected this to the sirens red wire and connected the sirens black wire to a ground under the hood.
(Pin 5 White) (Parking light out) Connected this to the brown wire on the BCM.
So starting off I was getting 7 flashes error “Timermode/ Turbo mode/ Manual mode error” when I pressed remote start. So I programed the remote start features to automatic transition. It tells you how to do this in the “Programming System Features” on the back of the “Quick reference install guide” Then I got the 8 flashes error “Neutral safety shutdown error” I was a little stumped for a wile, as I had grounded the Pin 13 Black/White Neutral safety input. Well after some internet searching I realized I had forgot to hook up the “Neutral Safety Switch” After plugging it in and turning it to the on position, the remote start worked perfect.
I was curious how the system knows the engine start was successful without the tack wire hooked up; my guess is it measures voltage into the system. I know this because I tried it once without the 556 hooked and it said there was a start failure, after hooking up the 556, it work great.
The 556 was easy to hook up, just installed the extra key in it, connected the red and white wire to the accessory positive and negative of the stereo and the blue wire to the dark blue wire of the remote start.
I also went with the Directed 508d dual zone motion sensor, I found a great place to install it behind the rear seat floor cup holders, but I did cut the green wire as I was not interested in the warning mode, I just want to know if someone is in my truck.
I am very happy with my 5706, it works great!! Any question about the install please don’t hastate to ask!
Larry
I went with his idea of installing the alarm brain next to the BCM behind the rear truck seat, it made installation very easy. My install was however a little different, since I had an amplifier already installed under my rear seat, so all my 12V constant positive and ground wires were spliced to my 8-gauge power and ground wires already available.
I bought my Viper 5706 for 229.00 and the DEI 556UW bypass module for 14.90 off ebay.
To remove the rear seat watch this video
Wiring diagram for 2004 to 2007 F150’s http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagr...8&link=Bulldog
Wiring:
24 pin harness:
(Pin 4 Black/Yellow) (200ma dome light) I did not hook this up, the dome light comes on as soon as you disarm do to the locks unlocking.
(Pin 5 Dark Blue) (200ma status out) Connected to the blue wire on the DEI 556.
(Pin 13 Black/White) (Neutral safety input) Connected to ground.
(Pin 15 Green) (Door trigger in) Connected this to the Black/Yellow and the Black/Pink on the BCM, using diodes. I did not connect to the rear doors because I have a crew cab and the front doors have to open before the rear doors, if you have a super crew cab with separate rear doors you will need to hook those wires up as well. I used the diode wiring diagram from Bulldog Security http://www.bulldogsecurity.com/diagr...0ISOLATION.pdf
(Pin 16 Brown/Black) (Break shutdown in) I did not hook this up.
10 Pin harness:
I ran these thought the door wire channel from the alarm brain to the ignition harness with about 15 feet of 14 gauge wire and a small gauge wire connecting the (24 Pin harness Pin 5 Dark Blue) (200ma status out) Connected to the blue wire on the DEI 556.
(Pin 2 Red/Black) (30 Amp fused 12V acc/starter) Connected this to my amplifier constant positive, “Thisguy youknow” hooked this to the Green/Yellow on the BCM.
(Pin 5 Red) (30 Amp fused 12V ign 1 in) Connected this to my amplifier constant positive, “Thisguy youknow” hooked this to the Green/Yellow on the BCM.
(Pin 6 Green) (Starter in key side of starter kill) I did not hook this up; I was a little confused about the green and violet wires on this harness. It kind of seamed like you were suppose to cut the Red/Light Blue wire on the ignition harness and connect it to the green and violet wires, but I found that just splicing the violet wire to the Red/Light Blue worked great. Any experience on this would help my curiosity.
(Pin 7 Violet) (Starter out car side of starter kill) Connected this to the Red/Light Blue wire on the ignition harness.
(Pin 8 Orange) (Accessory out) Connected to the Black/Light Green on the ignition harness.
(Pin 10 Pink) (Ign 1 in/out) Connected to the Dark Blue/Light Green on the ignition harness.
Door Lock Harness:
(Pin 1 Blue) (500ma unlock output) Connected to Pink/Light Green on the BCM.
(Pin 3 Green) (500ma lock output) Connected to Pink/Yellow on the BCM.
Main Harness:
(Pin 1 Red) (Constant 12V Positive) Connected this to my amplifier constant positive, “Thisguy youknow” hooked this to the TN/WH on the BCM.
(Pin 2 Black) (Constant 12V Negative) Connected this to my amplifier constant negative, “Thisguy youknow” hooked this to the BK on the BCM.
(Pin 3 Brown) (Siren out) Connected this to the sirens red wire and connected the sirens black wire to a ground under the hood.
(Pin 5 White) (Parking light out) Connected this to the brown wire on the BCM.
So starting off I was getting 7 flashes error “Timermode/ Turbo mode/ Manual mode error” when I pressed remote start. So I programed the remote start features to automatic transition. It tells you how to do this in the “Programming System Features” on the back of the “Quick reference install guide” Then I got the 8 flashes error “Neutral safety shutdown error” I was a little stumped for a wile, as I had grounded the Pin 13 Black/White Neutral safety input. Well after some internet searching I realized I had forgot to hook up the “Neutral Safety Switch” After plugging it in and turning it to the on position, the remote start worked perfect.
I was curious how the system knows the engine start was successful without the tack wire hooked up; my guess is it measures voltage into the system. I know this because I tried it once without the 556 hooked and it said there was a start failure, after hooking up the 556, it work great.
The 556 was easy to hook up, just installed the extra key in it, connected the red and white wire to the accessory positive and negative of the stereo and the blue wire to the dark blue wire of the remote start.
I also went with the Directed 508d dual zone motion sensor, I found a great place to install it behind the rear seat floor cup holders, but I did cut the green wire as I was not interested in the warning mode, I just want to know if someone is in my truck.
I am very happy with my 5706, it works great!! Any question about the install please don’t hastate to ask!
Larry
04-19-2014, 02:24 PM
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Shock sensor, I have a glass brake on order. I'm going to go with motion and sound, not shock. I don't care if a Harley drives bye, I want to know if someones in the truck or a window breaks.
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04-19-2014, 05:28 PM
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Looks good, it's nice and clean there!
Just curious, did you solder any of the wires? couldn't tell in the pictures. If you haven't, for safety reasons you should try and solder at least the +12V, ignition, accessory, and tach wires (if using tach pickup) wires. Without, if the connection is too weak you could create high resistance and potentially a fire. As for the alarm inputs, the only bad part there is you could get false triggers if something moves of course.
The starter kill is nice to have but not entirely needed. You're supposed to split the wire as you mentioned then have the start out go towards the starter, then the starter in go towards the start signal from the ignition. By doing what you did will work fine, you're just not achieving the starter kill feature. For example, if you arm the truck right now and try to start it, the alarm will go off but it'll still start whereas mine won't. If you wire it backwards, it'll do opposite (only allow you to start with key when armed, not disarmed). You have the chipped key already which is probably better in some cases anyways. You did the right thing by hooking the DEI bypass up to the 200ma status out (so the chipped bypass isn't always activated - only during remote start thus retaining the chip key security).
As for your amplifier power, you're ok to use that just remember when you're remote starting you're sharing the load between a larger fuse (only after the key is inserted and switched to ON - this won't be for long). You still have the protection of the remote start fuses (2 @ 15 amp I believe) so it should be fine. It's not my preference but it shouldn't pose any issues as long as everything is fused
. You should always have a fuse under the hood close to the battery anyways in case of an accident or any type of short of your stereo wire so the fuse blows rather than having a fire start.
I can't remember the V5706 but I think it uses virtual tach. So it uses an algorithm based on alternator voltage and such. I actually switched my neighbours over to tach mode with a tach wire input because his car would start, think it wasn't running, shut off, try again, etc... Sometimes it would work, sometimes it wouldn't. Personally, I'm more a fan of using the tach wire especially to eliminate starter overrun (I've seen starters prematurely fail due to this). Many of the newer vehicles (including Ford) won't let you overrun the starter and if you even blip the key the computer will take over the starting process. Unfortunately for ours though, it's still the older style (at least mine is - 2005).
Sorry I hope this helps! Great job overall! If this was your first one, the first one is always the worst haha. Costs the most time, most painstaking, etc...
Just curious, did you solder any of the wires? couldn't tell in the pictures. If you haven't, for safety reasons you should try and solder at least the +12V, ignition, accessory, and tach wires (if using tach pickup) wires. Without, if the connection is too weak you could create high resistance and potentially a fire. As for the alarm inputs, the only bad part there is you could get false triggers if something moves of course.
The starter kill is nice to have but not entirely needed. You're supposed to split the wire as you mentioned then have the start out go towards the starter, then the starter in go towards the start signal from the ignition. By doing what you did will work fine, you're just not achieving the starter kill feature. For example, if you arm the truck right now and try to start it, the alarm will go off but it'll still start whereas mine won't. If you wire it backwards, it'll do opposite (only allow you to start with key when armed, not disarmed). You have the chipped key already which is probably better in some cases anyways. You did the right thing by hooking the DEI bypass up to the 200ma status out (so the chipped bypass isn't always activated - only during remote start thus retaining the chip key security).
As for your amplifier power, you're ok to use that just remember when you're remote starting you're sharing the load between a larger fuse (only after the key is inserted and switched to ON - this won't be for long). You still have the protection of the remote start fuses (2 @ 15 amp I believe) so it should be fine. It's not my preference but it shouldn't pose any issues as long as everything is fused
. You should always have a fuse under the hood close to the battery anyways in case of an accident or any type of short of your stereo wire so the fuse blows rather than having a fire start.I can't remember the V5706 but I think it uses virtual tach. So it uses an algorithm based on alternator voltage and such. I actually switched my neighbours over to tach mode with a tach wire input because his car would start, think it wasn't running, shut off, try again, etc... Sometimes it would work, sometimes it wouldn't. Personally, I'm more a fan of using the tach wire especially to eliminate starter overrun (I've seen starters prematurely fail due to this). Many of the newer vehicles (including Ford) won't let you overrun the starter and if you even blip the key the computer will take over the starting process. Unfortunately for ours though, it's still the older style (at least mine is - 2005).
Sorry I hope this helps! Great job overall! If this was your first one, the first one is always the worst haha. Costs the most time, most painstaking, etc...
04-20-2014, 08:38 PM
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Thank you Homer, it was my first install of remote start, I have installed a lot of stereos and alarms but this was my first remote start. All wires were soldered.
I am thinking about hooking up the tack wire. It says "Any wire that is NOT RED or RED/LIGHT GREEN (AC) @ IGNITON COIL or FUEL INJECTORS". So does that mean any wire coming out of a fuel injector that isn't red or red/light? Or what is your favorite place to splice in the tack wire?
As fare as the consent 12v from the amplifier, I was thinking that the 8 gauge, would provide more amperage to the remote start inputs, does the consent 12v from the BCM provide enough amps? And it is fused right after the battery.
I am thinking about hooking up the tack wire. It says "Any wire that is NOT RED or RED/LIGHT GREEN (AC) @ IGNITON COIL or FUEL INJECTORS". So does that mean any wire coming out of a fuel injector that isn't red or red/light? Or what is your favorite place to splice in the tack wire?
As fare as the consent 12v from the amplifier, I was thinking that the 8 gauge, would provide more amperage to the remote start inputs, does the consent 12v from the BCM provide enough amps? And it is fused right after the battery.
