Vegasmachine

I have a 2004 4x4 with a 5.4(130K miles) that will start and run fine. Its just after it gets good and warm it idles very very rough, and the knocking sound is also very loud. In park that rough idle is not as bad but in reverse or drive the engine tries to tear itself out of the bay. At this point it no CEL(odd I know).

I have changed:

Fuel Pump
Fuel Filter
Cam Position Sensors
VCT x2 (Dormans)
Oil 5-20
Oil filter
Air Filter

I also checked the resistance on the cops and they were all .8 - .9 ohms. The plugs were changed by ford about 10K miles ago.

When it is making all the rattling and shacking it seems that most of the noise is coming from the area of the VCT's, I put a finger on the VCT connector while it was running and the vibration coming from the vct matches the knocking from the engine.

Like i stated it runs like new when cold but as soon as the engine gets warm(10 minutes or so) it runs like utter crap.

Ideas?

Thanks

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Dorman phasers are pure garbage. If you mean Dorman VCT solenoids, do yourself a favor and switch them out for Motorcraft. I am betting your phasers are going as well.

lewissa81

I agree with Summers. It's probably running rough because the timing isn't matching what the PCM is telling it to do. When it's cold, the timing is locked. Once it warms up, the PCM starts to adjust the timing through the VCT solenoids and phasers.
You can start with just replacing the VCT solenoids with motorcraft, but odds are it's time to replace all the timing components.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Yep only one way to do it. All Motorcraft solenoids, phasers and timing components. Also drop the oil pan and clean the pick-up screen.

Vegasmachine

http://www.fordparts.com/Commerce/Pa...rd&model=F-150

guess ill pick up a couple of these tomorrow and new gaskets.

I did not have a warm fuzzy about the dorman solenoids, should have went with my gut.

Thanks Fellas.

Vegasmachine

The 2 new solenoids from ford fixed the issue. Changed both in less than an hour, the book says that you need to remove the bracket that is holding the power steering reservoir to access the one on the drivers side but just remove the reservoir itself and the 2 nuts on the front of the bracket and it will move just enough to get the solenoid out.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

Awesome! Always a good feeling to have your truck running the way it should.