jaymay75

My 2004 F150 was blowing a lot of smoke during startup. I was starting to go through oil.

Valve Seal Job – 2004 F150 5.4
I just completed a valve seal job on my 2004 F150 5.4. I thought I’d share the tips.
Tools:
• Spring Compressor and Air Holder - http://www.shopfreedomracing.com/3V-...ive-ST-101.htm
- Day before you do the job - Remove the spark plug 16mm spark plug adapter from the air pipe. Coat with Red Lock Tite and re-install. If you don’t do this, you’ll continually have to be removing the adapter separately as the pipe unthreads from the adapter leaving the adapter in the cylinder head. The adapter can be removed with a 5/8 socket if this does happen. Its just another step.


- Good write up on the general use of the valve Spring Compressor.
- http://www.etoolcart.com/manual/3v.pdf

• Good long extendable magnet
• Long pliers, hose grip pliers (Harbor Freight)
• Long thing screwdriver
• Grease
Parts:
• Valve Seals (24)
• Order extra Valve Spring Retainer and keepers in case you lose one. You can always return parts you don’t use. Advance Auto sells them and Ford of course.
Remove everything in your way. This is such a difficult, precision job – don’t struggle with something in your way.
I removed:
• Air filter / etc
• Valve covers
• ECM – ECM Bracket
• Battery
• Power Steering Pump reservoir
• Both Inner Fender Liners
• Steering Rod Linkage from inside the cab out. Two bolts removes all of this.
• All AC Lines / Hoses / boxes that are in the way
• Zip tie any wiring harnesses out of your way.

After everything is removed, the most room is on the passenger side. On the driver side, in the back – the tool still hits the cab. We bent the firewall in a little bit to help with tool clearance. The back two valves on the drivers side are the hardest. The rest are not bad.
Most of the valves can be changed by yourself. A few in the back I needed the help of a 2nd person to help work the keepers back in, and work the tool, etc.

Procedure:
• Start with a few of the front valves until you get the hang of it.
• Turn the Crankshaft Pulley until the cam lobes are at the top position. Compress the spring using the smaller foot on the tool to remove the rocker. The smaller foot pushes down the valve and keepers. Make sure you go slow here and the foot is seated correctly. You don’t want the keepers falling out and dropping the valve in the cylinder. Also, sometimes the foot on the tool bends slightly and falls off the valves. Just bend them back (slightly) to where they were.
• Use a magnet to get the rocker arm out. Remove all three rocker arms for the cylinder that you are working. It was easiest to remove the rocker arm from the valve side.
• Now - For the cylinder that you are working on, make sure the piston is at the top stroke. Remove spark plug – stick a long (16”+ ) ¼” extension into the spark plug hole and rotate the Crankshaft Pulley until the cylinder is at the top. If you don’t take the time to do this, and you lose air pressure or even if the tool accidently pushes the valve down while trying to get the keepers back on, the valve will fall into the cylinder and you will have to remove the head to get it - ouch.
• Install the valve holder tool. Tighten to snug. Compress the cylinder with air.
• Fill any voids or cavities in your cylinder head with paper towels to prevent dropping “stuff” in there.
• Compress the spring. Its best to compress the spring with the tool, then lock the tool . Its too hard to compress the spring and try to work while holding the ratchet – especially in the back. Remove the keepers with your magnet.
• Remove the tool. Remove the Retainer and spring. Remove the old valve seal with needle nose pliers. I used hose rib pliers – worked well. Or work it out with a screwdriver .
• Clean the area out with a little brake cleaner / compressed air. Don’t remove your air feeding your valve holder. Use another compressor. I had a pancake compressor for the blow out tool.
• Install the new seal, use a socket to push it all the way down.
• Install the spring and the retainer.
• Carefully install the Valve Spring Tool and large foot.
• Compress the spring and lock the tool
• Take a long screwdriver, install a dab of grease on the tip and your keeper. Slowly and carefully install the keeper back on the valve – then install the 2nd keeper. I would install the keeper, press the screwdriver against the keeper and valve, and slowly move the screwdrive up. The keeper stays in place. After you do a few, you get that hang of it. If the keeper falls – it won’t go far because of the grease. Remove with magnet – not the screwdriver. Re-position on your screwdriver and try again.
• After the keepers are in, Slowly release the spring compressor and verify that the keepers seated into the Valve Spring retainer.
• Complete the same process on the other two valves
• Remove the air holder tool – get it out of your way. Reinstall spark plug. Keep all holes to the engine plugged as to avoid dropping “stuff” in there. Position the cam lobes so they are in the up or side position.
• Use the Spring Compressor with the smaller foot (pushes the valve and keepers down) to re-install the rocker arm on all three valves.
• Complete over and over again until finished.
• The rear valves and exhaust valves (outside valves) are easier to access through the removed inner fender.
• Replace everything removed. Clean the valve cover and head surfaces and use new gaskets.
• Change the oil in the truck and you’re good to go.

It’s a difficult, tedious job. Don’t rush it. Allow for a lot of time. If you get frustrated, quit and come back. It’s like surgery on the engine and gets frustrating quickly. Don’t fight the valve spring compressor tool around an object. If something is in the way of the tool, or your vision or access to the valve, take the time to remove it.