Upper control arm help
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Upper control arm help
Does anyone know or can point me in the right direction on getting a new set of upper control arms that will compensate for my 3 inch lift? The factory ones are only allowing me to adjust camber out to a point leaving me with no more adjustment.
Thanks
Thanks
#4
Senior Member
I put a set of Icon UCA's on after putting on my lift. IMO it made quite a difference in how it felt while turning. (mostly sharper turns and low speeds) I got mine from F150Lifts.
#5
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
What size lift do you have?
I've been on the fence about em. I don't know how that uniball will hold up being exposed in the rust belt...
I'm running just a 2.5" level with 35's. I'm in the process of pricing out a full front suspension rebuild.
I've already got:
bilstein 5100's (uninstalled)
Moog tie rod ends (installed)
Still need:
Upper CA
Lower ball joint
New IWE's
Fresh sway bar bushing's
Sway bar end links. Mine are shot..
If the price tag hits over 1k, then I'm leaning towards doing a 4 - 5" lift instead and going with moog UCA's.
#6
Senior Member
I started with 3" but dropped the front to 2 1/2" just because I wanted a little rake. They say you don't need the UCA's but I personally feel more comfortable with the uniball. It just doesn't look like such a drastic angle. I'm glad I put them on.
As far as how it will last in the rust belt, Icon states that they use: PTFE (teflon) lined stainless for the "cup" .
17-4 stainless for the pin.
1026 carbon steel for the tubing / body. I'd guess this would be the most susceptible but it's also painted.
Try giving them a call and see what they have to say.
As far as how it will last in the rust belt, Icon states that they use: PTFE (teflon) lined stainless for the "cup" .
17-4 stainless for the pin.
1026 carbon steel for the tubing / body. I'd guess this would be the most susceptible but it's also painted.
Try giving them a call and see what they have to say.
#7
Camburg has the most added caster to their upper arms and offers a larger uni so more droop travel can be achieved. And the uni's will not hold up well at all in the rust belt, they are an exposed bearing and if dirt, mud, salt, or rust starts to get into them and loosens up their tight tolerances they will fail. They don't fail like regular ball joints tho, there will be just slight side to side movement in uni if they are bad. This still will cause problems! But it is harder to detect if they are bad or not.
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#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
i appreciate all the info and replies. I am at a stand still with this and can't stand the steering wheel being off center especially when the truck tracks straight.
Last edited by 05RedXLT; 05-14-2014 at 08:48 PM.