Seth

The guy im using has been doing it for years and has many turbo vehicles from a gnx to a turbo t/a to a 700hp syclone. He knows what he's doing. And he asked if it was 2 bar capable to tune for boost. I just want it to run like normal. I'm not looking for a powerful tune just on so it'll run and drive with the added forced induction. He knows a guy over in Memphis at Mellon Tuning the moderator of race video forums that can tune it for 500. My buddy can tune it to see the turbo and act accordingly but not make huge power.

Seth

And with the remote mount turbo I can get a predator tuner and a mail order sts tune and run with it.

luckythirteen13

omg sorry it took so long to reply, fiances POS computer keeps crashing. two things ill never do, supercharge a motor and buy a mac

anyways, dont waste your money or energy stressing about building your internals or buying an oil cooler.

to answer your question in the pm you sent me, a t3 turbo is very small. a t3/t4 hybrid is a turbo that has a t4 sized compressor and a t3 exhaust housing. the to4e in that link, i run that exact same turbo on my 92 mustang with a 331 motor (approx 5.4L)....but i run two of them. turbonetics is the only company that makes a t3/t4 big enough for your truck and your talking big bucks for it. i run this turbo http://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Performanc...ht_4236wt_1139 get the one with the .68 ar. itll spool really good with your 5.4, 12ish psi with get you around 500rwhp.

i have a buddy on theturboforums.com with a chevy truck with a 4.8l v8. with nothing more then a valve spring upgrade he made 600rwhp
http://www.theturboforums.com/smf/th...with-500whp**/ now that he has a built bottom end hes running 700rwhp

here is a video before the forged bottom end ^^^for all the turbo haters, where is the lag in that video? you can hear him in boost sitting on the line

BF is 100% correct on the valve body upgrade. troyer has a great vb thats $400 ish. worth every penny. the shift from 1-2 in my truck at wot is bone jarring.

here is the oil pump i run http://www.pumpvendor.com/Jabsco_23220_series.html

when my new 37" tires go bald, im taking my lift off, going to 12psi and throwing on a meth injection kit. i think the truck with be fund with 500+rwhp

sorry if none of this info was helpful, hard to concentrate while im watching the superbowl. if you have any specific questions feel free to ask

Seth

I found this turbo in a t4 with all the goodies. Do you recommend using the mail order tune till I can get to a dyno to tune on? And will a shift improver kit not work over getting a new vb I don't want super hard shifts I am running 4wd btw.

Blown Ford

The valve body is designed to improve lubrication and flow. The harder shifts are just an added bonus and can be turned down to your preference with tuning.

luckythirteen13

link? what turbo?


and i run one of these housing http://www.vmptuning.com/store/index...parent=99&pg=1

i cant remember which one tho, ask BF, he can tell you which one is stock sized. i just remember i stuck my maf sensor into the housing, started the truck and it idled like stock with no tuning

Seth

Ok and I don't plan on going past to much psi do I need a boost a pump my truck is a flex fuel which means it is designed to boost the pressure when it detects e85 what exactly is a boost a pump

luckythirteen13

absolutely correct. the harder shifts are a sign that the tranny isnt slipping. slipping means heat and shortened tranny life

bap is like an amp for your fuel pump. it takes the 12v signal from the computer and bumps it up to 18v and then sends 18v (instead of 12v) to the fuel pump. i run one on my truck and my mustang

Seth

http://item.mobileweb.ebay.com/viewi...id=97048312317

My bad been a long day. Lol

luckythirteen13

the kit has some nice stuff. the turbo is the exact same specs as the one i run. the turbo timer is nice but not needed. i see it comes with a bov but none of the pipes included have a flange for the bov so youd have to buy one. they also talk about an oil regulator but there is a much easier and more reliable way of taking care of that. what you do is take the oil feed line which is normally .25" and force a piece of aluminum into the fitting to completely plug it off. then drill a 1/16" hole through that. that way the turbo is being fed by only a 1/16" oil. any more and you will flood the turbo and blow the seals.

also be prepared to buy a check valve for the oil feed fine. because the oil feed line is so long and that the rear mounts require an oil pump to return the oil back to the motor after the turbo, when the motor shuts off, the oil pump shuts off and all that pressurized oil in the feed line goes into the turbo and floods it. i thought this wasnt needed until after running my truck the first time i shut it town and oil started pooring out the exhaust. i think i bought the 10psi check valve from duda diesel on ebay. what it does is it closes the oil feed line off when oil pressure drops below 10psi. and the beauty of it is that you have 9psi of oil sitting in the oil feed line ready to go for the next start up so as soon as you start cranking the motor, the turbo is getting oil