Trans temps and cooler
03-26-2016, 03:37 PM
#11
Senior Member
Thread Starter
My edge mostly reads about 145 degrees at similar ambient temp. When i got truck it ran closer to 170-180, till I noticed rubber beneath rads was out of place and air was bypassing out bottom and under engine. As soon as I fixed the 3 different rubber guards, temps have yet to go over 150 in last 5 years. Just something to check
03-26-2016, 05:01 PM
#12
12 Second Truck
I paid the shop almost 6000 dollars to build it, so I'm hopeful they did it right. I cannot use a factory cooler anymore due to me having a 32 inch light bar in its place. So I was looking for alternatives. I plan on bypassing the thermal bypass if I can get some tips on how. I'm in Texas now but will be driving to Northern California which is almost 1800 miles at the end of April.
Remove the bypass from the truck. Remove the c-clip, pull the thermal assembly apart and flip the brass plunger upside down. Use a grinder to shorten the metal rod that the plunger normally goes in so it will keep the plunger shoved tight against the hole in the top of the assembly where the fluid is normally rerouted back to the trans. This blocks the middle hole where fluid is normaly rerouted back to the transmission. Reinstall c clip and install unit back on truck. Hopefully I didn't leave out any details. It's been 6 yrs since I did it. Be prepared to capture some fluid that will escape the lines and the thermal bypass.
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xMUDKINGx (03-26-2016)
03-26-2016, 05:22 PM
#13
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Sounds simple enough, thanks man
03-27-2016, 03:31 AM
#14
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Well just an update on that "simple" job, I got everything done except for when I went to install my send line from the transmission, the damn bypass valve stripped half way through dumping trans fluid all over my driveway and I had no way to stop it, in my quick but stupid thinking, I ran and got a pair of tin snips and cut the send line into the valve and the send line to the cooler and threw a piece of heat shrink tubing and some zip ties on it to join the two together, it stopped the massive leak but left both ends of the line pretty screwed up.So now it looks like tomorrow I will be cutting them the proper way, getting some rubber transmission transmission line and some hose clamps and removing the bypass valve altogether plus a fluid change. Went from a 5 minute simple free job to a 4-5 hour and 100-200 dollar pain in the @$$
03-27-2016, 09:46 AM
#15
Sucks. My version of a fix would be to get hard line, tube nuts and flare the hard lines. Then you don't have to worry about leaks.
Personally, I don't trust fluid line clamped with a simple hose clamp to hard line.
I think the line is double wall 5/16, but that's a guess. Measure to be sure.
Personally, I don't trust fluid line clamped with a simple hose clamp to hard line.
I think the line is double wall 5/16, but that's a guess. Measure to be sure.
The following users liked this post:
xMUDKINGx (03-27-2016)