Trans temps and cooler
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Trans temps and cooler
Ey guys so I'm having a pretty high trans temp (( I think )) my edge said it was getting up to 185 normal street driving. Outside air temp is about 70. When I had my tranny rebuilt, they swapped my factory tranny cooler with a radiator mounted one and re ran the lines so it doesn't go through the radiator anymore. Is this too hot? My last rebuild lasted about 7000 miles and they said it was getting too hot and it started melting. They fixed it under warranty unwillingly, they changed my tranny cooler again (same one as before) because they said the old one was full of metal shavings. I really don't want to have to get it done again. Do I need to look into a Better tranny cooler? Maybe one with an electric fan? My old one was long and rectangular and was in the opening of the bumper, the one they put on is mounted to the radiator and is a square shape. My trans has a shift kit, I have 35's and and 4" lift. Please help me out brothers
#2
Senior Member
Thread Starter
This is what I'm looking into, or something similar
#3
Senior Member
Thread Starter
This is the **** they put on my baby.
#4
Super Duper Senior Member
Could you add an electric fan to the one you have? Or are you thinking the trans cooler they installed isn't good enough?
The following users liked this post:
xMUDKINGx (03-26-2016)
#5
12 Second Truck
I recommend using the factory style cooler. Dorman makes a version if it for the same price as the one you posted above. DORMAN 918202. I also highly recommend an inline filter. This is in accord with Fords guidelines as well. They are under $15. Change it every 10,000 miles.
ATP JX150. You can find both of these parts listed for your truck at rockauto.com
If cooling is still an issue the bypass the thermal bypass. Problem solved. The thermal bypass is the alum block just under the starter with 4 trans lines connected. It is a thermostat that prevents fluid from flowing through the cooler until it is hot. I've had mine bypassed for 6yrs now. If I had to guess this part was not disasembled and cleaned when the trans was replaced hence the reason you found metal shavings.
ATP JX150. You can find both of these parts listed for your truck at rockauto.com
If cooling is still an issue the bypass the thermal bypass. Problem solved. The thermal bypass is the alum block just under the starter with 4 trans lines connected. It is a thermostat that prevents fluid from flowing through the cooler until it is hot. I've had mine bypassed for 6yrs now. If I had to guess this part was not disasembled and cleaned when the trans was replaced hence the reason you found metal shavings.
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xMUDKINGx (03-26-2016)
#6
Blown Ford's got it right.
Transmission replacement warrants radiator replacement, aux trans radiator (if present) and inline bypass replacement. With a mechanical (hard parts) failure, the entire fluid circuit must be replaced.
The shop should have known and done all of this.
The first trans burned up because they didn't adequately cool it. Totally avoidable.
Now, I'd be worried about any reused parts. Your best bet is to replace with an adequate cooling system, completely drain the fluid. I would also put a filter inline in case there's any metal going around.
What's adequate cooling?
1) Transmission circuit in factory-style radiator. This is critical.
2) Aux transmission radiator, ala the factory part.
3) The bypass, necessary in cold weather, can be left out or bypassed in temperate climates (I dont know where you are)
And again, put a filter on it, and check/change regularly after you put it on. If there's anything being circulated, it'll get caught pretty quickly.
Also, be sure that a fluid flush is done either with the fluid exchange pump (pro tool), or by using the trans pump itself (which means you have to start the motor to pump the fluid out).
An aux cooler with a fan will never cool like the factory setup. You'll burn up another trans, guaranteed.
Transmission replacement warrants radiator replacement, aux trans radiator (if present) and inline bypass replacement. With a mechanical (hard parts) failure, the entire fluid circuit must be replaced.
The shop should have known and done all of this.
The first trans burned up because they didn't adequately cool it. Totally avoidable.
Now, I'd be worried about any reused parts. Your best bet is to replace with an adequate cooling system, completely drain the fluid. I would also put a filter inline in case there's any metal going around.
What's adequate cooling?
1) Transmission circuit in factory-style radiator. This is critical.
2) Aux transmission radiator, ala the factory part.
3) The bypass, necessary in cold weather, can be left out or bypassed in temperate climates (I dont know where you are)
And again, put a filter on it, and check/change regularly after you put it on. If there's anything being circulated, it'll get caught pretty quickly.
Also, be sure that a fluid flush is done either with the fluid exchange pump (pro tool), or by using the trans pump itself (which means you have to start the motor to pump the fluid out).
An aux cooler with a fan will never cool like the factory setup. You'll burn up another trans, guaranteed.
The following users liked this post:
xMUDKINGx (03-26-2016)
#7
Senior Member
Thread Starter
I recommend using the factory style cooler. Dorman makes a version if it for the same price as the one you posted above. DORMAN 918202. I also highly recommend an inline filter. This is in accord with Fords guidelines as well. They are under $15. Change it every 10,000 miles. ATP JX150. You can find both of these parts listed for your truck at rockauto.com If cooling is still an issue the bypass the thermal bypass. Problem solved. The thermal bypass is the alum block just under the starter with 4 trans lines connected. It is a thermostat that prevents fluid from flowing through the cooler until it is hot. I've had mine bypassed for 6yrs now. If I had to guess this part was not disasembled and cleaned when the trans was replaced hence the reason you found metal shavings.
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#8
Senior Member
Thread Starter
just going by the shear size of the mishimoto cooler in looking at I'm not sure if it would be worth it. The Hayden that is currently installed is .75 inches thick and the mishimoto is almost 5 inches thick coupled with massively bigger cooling passages and heat fins.
#9
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Blown Ford's got it right. Transmission replacement warrants radiator replacement, aux trans radiator (if present) and inline bypass replacement. With a mechanical (hard parts) failure, the entire fluid circuit must be replaced. The shop should have known and done all of this. The first trans burned up because they didn't adequately cool it. Totally avoidable. Now, I'd be worried about any reused parts. Your best bet is to replace with an adequate cooling system, completely drain the fluid. I would also put a filter inline in case there's any metal going around. What's adequate cooling? 1) Transmission circuit in factory-style radiator. This is critical. 2) Aux transmission radiator, ala the factory part. 3) The bypass, necessary in cold weather, can be left out or bypassed in temperate climates (I dont know where you are) And again, put a filter on it, and check/change regularly after you put it on. If there's anything being circulated, it'll get caught pretty quickly. Also, be sure that a fluid flush is done either with the fluid exchange pump (pro tool), or by using the trans pump itself (which means you have to start the motor to pump the fluid out). An aux cooler with a fan will never cool like the factory setup. You'll burn up another trans, guaranteed.
#10
My edge mostly reads about 145 degrees at similar ambient temp. When i got truck it ran closer to 170-180, till I noticed rubber beneath rads was out of place and air was bypassing out bottom and under engine. As soon as I fixed the 3 different rubber guards, temps have yet to go over 150 in last 5 years.
Just something to check
Just something to check
The following users liked this post:
xMUDKINGx (03-26-2016)