Trans cooler line bypass valve
#1
Trans cooler line bypass valve
Evening all!
07 SCREW 5.4
My trans cooler lines rusted through, so I spent a good long time in the garage today snaking new ones down that tight space.
My dealer decided to disconnect the lines from the bypass valve so it'd take up less room on the shelf (as the sections could be sorta stacked), but couldn't tell me what orientation the valve went on the truck - i.e. - which was up or down / which part of the bypass valve is on the output & which is on the return line.
I scoured the forums & the internet trying to find a picture of the bypass valve installed on the lines & was a little surprised that I couldn't find one at all, so I have it in the truck right now with the c-clip & little nipple-looking piece facing down (on return line).
Any chance someone could look under their truck & let me know if this is the correct orientation (or if it even matters?) & maybe even take a pic & upload it?
While I was doing all of this I knew I was low on ATF due to the really big puddle under the truck this morning, so dropped the pan to replace the filter then used the info from this forum to do a fluid swap (disconnected return at trans cooler into bucket, not too bad at all).
Thanks all!
07 SCREW 5.4
My trans cooler lines rusted through, so I spent a good long time in the garage today snaking new ones down that tight space.
My dealer decided to disconnect the lines from the bypass valve so it'd take up less room on the shelf (as the sections could be sorta stacked), but couldn't tell me what orientation the valve went on the truck - i.e. - which was up or down / which part of the bypass valve is on the output & which is on the return line.
I scoured the forums & the internet trying to find a picture of the bypass valve installed on the lines & was a little surprised that I couldn't find one at all, so I have it in the truck right now with the c-clip & little nipple-looking piece facing down (on return line).
Any chance someone could look under their truck & let me know if this is the correct orientation (or if it even matters?) & maybe even take a pic & upload it?
While I was doing all of this I knew I was low on ATF due to the really big puddle under the truck this morning, so dropped the pan to replace the filter then used the info from this forum to do a fluid swap (disconnected return at trans cooler into bucket, not too bad at all).
Thanks all!
#2
Timber Baron
I know for a fact that the snap ring is on the bottom end. What I don't know is which side faces forward or backward, of if it even matters. That part is actually the transmission thermostat that opens at 150* to let ATF reach the trans coolers up front.
#3
I'm "guessing" that since it's heat controlled it really shouldn't matter?
#4
Timber Baron
I looked at mine and couldn't find any writing. Doesn't look like it is directional.
#5
Senior Member
Doesn't it circulate fluid bypassing the cooler(s) until the fluid reached a certain temp? So it must be directional. Maybe your dealer parts dept could look it up for you.
#6
That was the first thing I asked when I picked it up...all they could pull up was the same PDF I can pull up online which shows nothing...
#7
Timber Baron
Am I correct in thinking that when the t-stat is closed, fluid gets recirculated to the trans from the t-stat housing? Otherwise hot fluid would never get to the t-stat.
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#8
Since I still had the old one I decided to find out for sure by cutting it in half (was too rusted in to just pop the plunger out). It is not directional & is heat controlled like a thermostat (not pressure, like some of the other threads). I doubt it would even matter which side is up, as there's springs on both sides & the hot fluid would go around the plunger either way (I did install it like the factory with the circlip/nipple pointing down).
In the pic, it is more or less 2/3 up in the "hot" position. The block is aluminum & was really hot when I got it apart, so the plunger rose on the pin just like if it was in the truck. It goes a bit higher & will totally seal off the center channel & open up the bottom hole a lot more (I just didn't hold it like that for the pic).
Hope it helps someone.
In the pic, it is more or less 2/3 up in the "hot" position. The block is aluminum & was really hot when I got it apart, so the plunger rose on the pin just like if it was in the truck. It goes a bit higher & will totally seal off the center channel & open up the bottom hole a lot more (I just didn't hold it like that for the pic).
Hope it helps someone.