Total Confusion on 5.4l 20015 Triton Please Help
07-08-2014, 05:23 PM
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Total Confusion on 5.4l 20015 Triton Please Help
Hi,
I tried the coveted search button before posting this. Im sure it will come as a shock to most of you that there is someone out there having issues with am '05 5.4l Triton, but hey...here i am!
Im blowing a few different codes. I should start with the fact that I am 1 tooth off on my timing, and will be addressing that this weekend. Its been this way for about 6 months, and I dont drive it very much because of it. It also hasnt been a major drivability issue. Ive already done the cam phasers and all timing components, just ended up a tooth off on bank 1. The timing related codes im getting ar a P0340 and P0344. My post is NOT about these codes.
Yesterday, I began driving just fine. About 20 minutes in, it started to violently shake, so I pulled over and pulled out my code scanner. I had a P2196 going. I did as much research as I could, and here is what I have determined.....
1. Its not likely the actual O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1). it seems that that is more of a symptom than an actual problem.
2. It could be fuel injector, so I removed the fuel rail just high enough to watch them, and then went Key On-Engine Off. I put dry clean rags under each and came back an hour later...they were still dry and there didnt appear to be any leakage from any injector.
2a. I put the fuel rail back together, and took a ride. In addition to the P2196, I was now blowing a P0203 (fault in fuel injector circuit for cylinder 3 ). I cleared the codes and drove to a small local shop owned by a friend.
3. At the shop the mechanic put a screwdriver up to cylinder 3 and proclaimed that i probably bent a valve, the cylinder wasn't doing anything. I did pull the COP and put a plug into it and ground it. I am getting spark.
It seems to me, that if the cylinder is dead while the engine is idling, it is still going to be dead at 40 mph. I dont think ive bent a valve as the mechanic suggested.....he seemed to eager to sell me a new engine, and diagnosed that in roughly 60 seconds. Throughout the process ive had p2196, p0203, p0340 & 344, and p0174.
While my first instinct is to dig a hole around this truck, financially i am totally screwed if I have to do that...just dont have the cash right now. Can anyone offer any advise OTHER than 'hey i have the same problem"? Thanks.
I tried the coveted search button before posting this. Im sure it will come as a shock to most of you that there is someone out there having issues with am '05 5.4l Triton, but hey...here i am!
Im blowing a few different codes. I should start with the fact that I am 1 tooth off on my timing, and will be addressing that this weekend. Its been this way for about 6 months, and I dont drive it very much because of it. It also hasnt been a major drivability issue. Ive already done the cam phasers and all timing components, just ended up a tooth off on bank 1. The timing related codes im getting ar a P0340 and P0344. My post is NOT about these codes.
Yesterday, I began driving just fine. About 20 minutes in, it started to violently shake, so I pulled over and pulled out my code scanner. I had a P2196 going. I did as much research as I could, and here is what I have determined.....
1. Its not likely the actual O2 sensor (bank 1 sensor 1). it seems that that is more of a symptom than an actual problem.
2. It could be fuel injector, so I removed the fuel rail just high enough to watch them, and then went Key On-Engine Off. I put dry clean rags under each and came back an hour later...they were still dry and there didnt appear to be any leakage from any injector.
2a. I put the fuel rail back together, and took a ride. In addition to the P2196, I was now blowing a P0203 (fault in fuel injector circuit for cylinder 3 ). I cleared the codes and drove to a small local shop owned by a friend.
3. At the shop the mechanic put a screwdriver up to cylinder 3 and proclaimed that i probably bent a valve, the cylinder wasn't doing anything. I did pull the COP and put a plug into it and ground it. I am getting spark.
It seems to me, that if the cylinder is dead while the engine is idling, it is still going to be dead at 40 mph. I dont think ive bent a valve as the mechanic suggested.....he seemed to eager to sell me a new engine, and diagnosed that in roughly 60 seconds. Throughout the process ive had p2196, p0203, p0340 & 344, and p0174.
While my first instinct is to dig a hole around this truck, financially i am totally screwed if I have to do that...just dont have the cash right now. Can anyone offer any advise OTHER than 'hey i have the same problem"? Thanks.
Last edited by jjward101; 07-08-2014 at 05:33 PM.
07-08-2014, 09:03 PM
#2
P2196 is Bank2 sensor 1 rich. That's the drivers side.
The other code for the injector is cylinder 3, which is passenger side.
I think for the injector code you should swap that injector and see if the code follows it. (You'll go from injector fault cyl 3 to injector fault cyl 1 for example.)
As far as the running rich problem.... it very well could be an o2 sensor. Once again I think you should switch them and see what happens. If the problem stays on bank 2, then you know the o2 sensor is good.
Start here, and report your findings.
The other code for the injector is cylinder 3, which is passenger side.
I think for the injector code you should swap that injector and see if the code follows it. (You'll go from injector fault cyl 3 to injector fault cyl 1 for example.)
As far as the running rich problem.... it very well could be an o2 sensor. Once again I think you should switch them and see what happens. If the problem stays on bank 2, then you know the o2 sensor is good.
Start here, and report your findings.
07-08-2014, 11:04 PM
#3
the 2005 F150 was the year when Ford had a huge recall on defected Fuel Injectors. It was for 04-06 models but 05 was the worst.
Ford realized that the injector problem in turn messed up alot of **** in the engine... to including misfires from spark plugs/cops and other items that needed to be replaced. It might be worth bringing it into the dealer and claiming your truck feels like it is misfiring and that you know there was a recall on these injectors for the 05, pretty sure they have to check it out for free b/c it was a huge deal when they had to recall all the trucks...
And since you have a computer code showing the injector is bad...Might be worth the trip... just thought I'd add that...Hope this helps.
Ford realized that the injector problem in turn messed up alot of **** in the engine... to including misfires from spark plugs/cops and other items that needed to be replaced. It might be worth bringing it into the dealer and claiming your truck feels like it is misfiring and that you know there was a recall on these injectors for the 05, pretty sure they have to check it out for free b/c it was a huge deal when they had to recall all the trucks...
And since you have a computer code showing the injector is bad...Might be worth the trip... just thought I'd add that...Hope this helps.
07-09-2014, 09:53 AM
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the 2005 F150 was the year when Ford had a huge recall on defected Fuel Injectors. It was for 04-06 models but 05 was the worst.
Ford realized that the injector problem in turn messed up alot of **** in the engine... to including misfires from spark plugs/cops and other items that needed to be replaced. It might be worth bringing it into the dealer and claiming your truck feels like it is misfiring and that you know there was a recall on these injectors for the 05, pretty sure they have to check it out for free b/c it was a huge deal when they had to recall all the trucks...
And since you have a computer code showing the injector is bad...Might be worth the trip... just thought I'd add that...Hope this helps.
Ford realized that the injector problem in turn messed up alot of **** in the engine... to including misfires from spark plugs/cops and other items that needed to be replaced. It might be worth bringing it into the dealer and claiming your truck feels like it is misfiring and that you know there was a recall on these injectors for the 05, pretty sure they have to check it out for free b/c it was a huge deal when they had to recall all the trucks...
And since you have a computer code showing the injector is bad...Might be worth the trip... just thought I'd add that...Hope this helps.
Also, after disconnecting the negative terminal last night, running the engine for a half hour while continuing to look for vacuum leaks, the only codes that showed back up are:
P0172
P0174.
any ideas what might cause these two codes?
07-09-2014, 07:38 PM
#5
Im WELL past the extended warranty on that recall. I looked into it yesterday. I did pull the fuel rail and put clean white rags under each injector, and none seem to be leaking.
Also, after disconnecting the negative terminal last night, running the engine for a half hour while continuing to look for vacuum leaks, the only codes that showed back up are:
P0172
P0174.
any ideas what might cause these two codes?
Also, after disconnecting the negative terminal last night, running the engine for a half hour while continuing to look for vacuum leaks, the only codes that showed back up are:
P0172
P0174.
any ideas what might cause these two codes?
do you by chance have a K&N air filter???? or a cold air intake?
07-09-2014, 11:09 PM
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im Screwed!
Well, if it wasnt an engine swap before, im pretty sure it is now. I took it over to the mechanic, and we worked for about 3 hours with a mechanics stethoscope, vacuum gauge, compression tester, and a $14000 snapon scanner. Determined that my chain guide on bank 1 was broken and that the reason for the crappy idle and knocking was because the tensioner on that side just couldnt do its thing at low rpms, butbout enough tension on thw chain to quiet down and run properly at higher rpms. All good to this point.
We added engine oil flush, and a quart of trans fluid to the oil. He told me to drive it the long way home. I did. Thibis where
We added engine oil flush, and a quart of trans fluid to the oil. He told me to drive it the long way home. I did. Thibis where
07-09-2014, 11:12 PM
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im Screwed!
Well, if it wasnt an engine swap before, im pretty sure it is now. I took it over to the mechanic, and we worked for about 3 hours with a mechanics stethoscope, vacuum gauge, compression tester, and a $14000 snapon scanner. Determined that my chain guide on bank 1 was broken and that the reason for the crappy idle and knocking was because the tensioner on that side just couldnt do its thing at low rpms, butbout enough tension on thw chain to quiet down and run properly at higher rpms. All good to this point.
We added engine oil flush, and a quart of trans fluid to the oil. He told me to drive it the long way home. I did. Thi is where it goes south. I stopped for gas and then started home. I went up a slight incline and at the top of the hill it crapped out. Ibdidnt hear anything snao or break, but when i tried to start the engine it was REAL hard to crank, to the point of dimming the lights. It also sounded like there was a little man under the hood shaking 2 cans of pennies. I got it to move off to tje side of the road and it died again.
Plan was to change the oil first thing tomorrow morning then immediately do the timing with the mechanic
We added engine oil flush, and a quart of trans fluid to the oil. He told me to drive it the long way home. I did. Thi is where it goes south. I stopped for gas and then started home. I went up a slight incline and at the top of the hill it crapped out. Ibdidnt hear anything snao or break, but when i tried to start the engine it was REAL hard to crank, to the point of dimming the lights. It also sounded like there was a little man under the hood shaking 2 cans of pennies. I got it to move off to tje side of the road and it died again.
Plan was to change the oil first thing tomorrow morning then immediately do the timing with the mechanic
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07-09-2014, 11:13 PM
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im Screwed!
Well, if it wasnt an engine swap before, im pretty sure it is now. I took it over to the mechanic, and we worked for about 3 hours with a mechanics stethoscope, vacuum gauge, compression tester, and a $14000 snapon scanner. Determined that my chain guide on bank 1 was broken and that the reason for the crappy idle and knocking was because the tensioner on that side just couldnt do its thing at low rpms, butbout enough tension on thw chain to quiet down and run properly at higher rpms. All good to this point.
We added engine oil flush, and a quart of trans fluid to the oil. He told me to drive it the long way home. I did. Thi is where it goes south. I stopped for gas and then started home. I went up a slight incline and at the top of the hill it crapped out. Ibdidnt hear anything snao or break, but when i tried to start the engine it was REAL hard to crank, to the point of dimming the lights. It also sounded like there was a little man under the hood shaking 2 cans of pennies. I got it to move off to the side of the road and it died again. Sound like im completely toast now.
Plan was to change the oil first thing tomorrow morning then immediately do the timing components with the mechanic in a marathon day.
So close, yet sooooo screwed. Next truck for me? Chevy or Dodge. Ford sucks.
We added engine oil flush, and a quart of trans fluid to the oil. He told me to drive it the long way home. I did. Thi is where it goes south. I stopped for gas and then started home. I went up a slight incline and at the top of the hill it crapped out. Ibdidnt hear anything snao or break, but when i tried to start the engine it was REAL hard to crank, to the point of dimming the lights. It also sounded like there was a little man under the hood shaking 2 cans of pennies. I got it to move off to the side of the road and it died again. Sound like im completely toast now.
Plan was to change the oil first thing tomorrow morning then immediately do the timing components with the mechanic in a marathon day.
So close, yet sooooo screwed. Next truck for me? Chevy or Dodge. Ford sucks.
07-10-2014, 02:45 AM
#9
Slow down... why did you add flush and tranny fluid? That old tale that transmission fluid will clean your engine is long overdue and pretty much every car manufacturer today recommends AGAINST flushes (unless they're Kreen). Sounds like you or the mechanic might have caused the engine crap out yourself. How was the mechanic able to diagnose a broken guide? I don't care how much the tool cost, did he remove the front cover? If he did, why didn't he just replace the guide? I think you either broke your chain or it came off or something, both of which could cause the penny-shaking sound and destroy your engine from the pistons slamming into the valves. Doesn't sound like Ford is to blame here.
07-10-2014, 06:39 AM
#10
Senior Member
Sounds like a lack of common sense combined with minimal mechanical knowledge is what killed your engine.
