JimWills

I went with Advance Auto Wearever rotors, cheap, but I haven't had any issues and that's been @ 80,000 miles ago. I do not tow often, and then its a 3000lb boat, so I am not stressing them. I had to replace a sticking caliper at the same time.

Prof

OK, this brings me to another question - how do you determine if your caliper is sticking?

I have heard that it is possible to damage the caliper pistons by pushing back in "wrongly"? Everything I have seen (youtube vids) indicates that you just get a clamp and push the damn things in - Is there something I am missing here? I have some nice old large clamps that I was going to use for this - as there is only one piston per caliper - so what am I missing?

OK, so Wagner Thermoquiet pads, centric parts, change out my incredibly stupid pressed in bearing/front 2wd front rotor system for the two peice front rotor of the 4x4's (with the appropriate adapters or what have you) and slotted and drilled rotors? Any opinion as to slotted, drilled or slotted/drilled - any difference? I would love to increase my breaking efficiency, this thing stock stops like a pig, causing occasional door arm white knuckle gripping by the wife - I would like to avoid that if possible.

Any help would be appreciated -

dukedave5200

A sticking caliper would tend to pull the truck in that direction - especially if it's on the front. You can also raise the wheel off the ground and spin it - make sure it moves freely from the break. It would also heat that hub/rotor more than others if a caliper is sticking. Breaking may also pull one way or another if a caliper isn't working.


I just used a clamp to push them in. You don't want to loosen the brake line or bleed screw, just push the pistons back in. Unless your calipers are extremely rusty or are leaking, you shouldn't have to worry about any damage, just push them in evenly and slowly.


Drilled, slotted, etc, are really only good for helping to reduce heat. If you think about it there is less metal for the pads to contact, so they really only help under extreme braking, loads, down hill, etc, when stock or normal rotors/brakes fade from over heating. Otherwise, they slotted or drilled rotors are useless IMO.


Good pads and everything else working properly is all you need. I never felt my truck didn't have good breaks, I can definitely stop hard enough for the anti-lock to activate. If this is the same for your truck, then that's about as good as it's going to get.

BoiseF150

Where is the best place to buy this stuff? Amazon looks to have decent prices.

JimWills

My Caliper would stick after "very" hard braking(read panic stop) usually it would free back up but the rotor would get wicked hot so you could smell it when it was stuck. That was the only way I knew it was sticking, really couldn't feel it or much of a pull. Just be careful to compress them squarely and don't let them dangle by the brake hose when replacing the pads.

I get everything at my local Advance Auto or Auto Zone if they don't have it. Good discounts and coupons online and then pick up in store (15% off and then a $25 off your next order or something like that) I love Amazon, especially if you can get it on Prime with free 2 day shipping. That's the problem with stuff online, it may be cheaper but often the shipping charges erase those savings.