Think I have the IEW solenoid issue! HELP please!
03-15-2009, 07:36 PM
#1
Think I have the IEW solenoid issue! HELP please!
I get a buzzing from the front end (sounds like the right side but I'm not sure) in 2HI but not in 4HI. If I shift from D to N while moving I can still hear the noise so it doesn't seem like a tranny issue. When I go from 2HI to 4HI I get a very audible "clunk" and the buzzing noise goes away completely.
1. Should there be any, and I mean ANY difference between the noise coming from the front end in 4HI and 2HI?
2. Should there be an audible "clunk" when going from 2HI to 4HI while moving?
Thank you!!
1. Should there be any, and I mean ANY difference between the noise coming from the front end in 4HI and 2HI?
2. Should there be an audible "clunk" when going from 2HI to 4HI while moving?
Thank you!!
03-16-2009, 01:07 AM
#3
im not going to guarantee that it is the solenoid.... it could also be one of your actuators........ if one side is working correctly, that would tell me that the solenoid is working correctly..... the buzzing noise is caused by the actuator partly engaging the cv axle and the wheel hub. when there is no vacuum, the actuator will "default" to the engaged position by means of a spring. when vacuum is applied, the spring tension is overcome, and the actuator compresses to disengage.
first step i would take is to measure the vacuum at the actuators..... with the engine idling in 2wd you should be reading about 21" of vacuum at the hubs..... when you shift to 4wd, you should not have any vacuum. if yours does this, then your solenoid is working fine.
next step is to test the actuators.... using a hand vacuum pump, apply vacuum to the actuator, and check it for leak down. it is allowed to lose 1" of vacuum in 1 minute...any more than that and it is no good.
you could get lucky, and just have some moisture inside one of your lines. when you take the lines off the actuators, check for moisture as well. if you have the "old" style solenoid, then this is a very possibile thing. below is a picture to show you the difference in the old and new solenoids. a new solenoid runs about 30.00 and you can change it in about 10 minutes.
the new style has the shield built in to help prevent the solenoid from injesting water which runs down from the windshield.
hope this helps.... if you have any questions, just ask !!!
first step i would take is to measure the vacuum at the actuators..... with the engine idling in 2wd you should be reading about 21" of vacuum at the hubs..... when you shift to 4wd, you should not have any vacuum. if yours does this, then your solenoid is working fine.
next step is to test the actuators.... using a hand vacuum pump, apply vacuum to the actuator, and check it for leak down. it is allowed to lose 1" of vacuum in 1 minute...any more than that and it is no good.
you could get lucky, and just have some moisture inside one of your lines. when you take the lines off the actuators, check for moisture as well. if you have the "old" style solenoid, then this is a very possibile thing. below is a picture to show you the difference in the old and new solenoids. a new solenoid runs about 30.00 and you can change it in about 10 minutes.
the new style has the shield built in to help prevent the solenoid from injesting water which runs down from the windshield.
hope this helps.... if you have any questions, just ask !!!
Last edited by mattd17; 03-16-2009 at 01:11 AM.
03-16-2009, 05:10 PM
#5
Okay, went to the dealer and gave them the complete rundown including those instructions to make sure they knew what they're doing and they said everything checks out 100%.
Is there perhaps an additional whine in 2HI as opposed to 4HI that I'm overreacting to (I JUST bought this truck)??
It can't be a wheel bearing because in 4HI the sound goes away completely, and it can't be the transmission since the sound persists in N as long as I'm in 2HI.
What's going on??!!
Is there perhaps an additional whine in 2HI as opposed to 4HI that I'm overreacting to (I JUST bought this truck)??
It can't be a wheel bearing because in 4HI the sound goes away completely, and it can't be the transmission since the sound persists in N as long as I'm in 2HI.
What's going on??!!
03-16-2009, 07:42 PM
#6
Just went and drove TWO different trucks, and NEITHER of them made the noise mine did. Mine's under warranty and I just bought it and it's still in the grace period so I can return it for a complete refund if I'm unsatisfied. Such a pisoff!
03-16-2009, 10:14 PM
#7
Alright last thing...
I jacked it up on the side that seemed to make the noise, turned it on, put it in Neutral, 2HI, then spun the wheel by hand, the half-shaft spun with it. Now, is that supposed to happen? I would've thought the wheel would free-spin but the half-shaft wouldn't? Wish I knew more about this stuff!
Let me know ASAP coz I have to go in tomorrow and talk to their mechanic! Thank you!
I jacked it up on the side that seemed to make the noise, turned it on, put it in Neutral, 2HI, then spun the wheel by hand, the half-shaft spun with it. Now, is that supposed to happen? I would've thought the wheel would free-spin but the half-shaft wouldn't? Wish I knew more about this stuff!
Let me know ASAP coz I have to go in tomorrow and talk to their mechanic! Thank you!
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03-17-2009, 09:18 PM
#8
leave the engine running with the truck in 2wd..... then go out and try to spin the front axles by hand.... they should move easily without any "binding" feeling.
what year is the truck? how many miles? it really sounds to me like you have a bad actuator. and, one bad one can cause the other to go bad if it has a vacuum leak. if it doesnt have a vacuum leak, but instead is just really sluggish and doesnt fully disengage, then you can ultimately eat up the wheel hub.
you see, the way these actuators works is this:
the have an internal spring which applies pressure to expand them. the inside of the actuator (towards engine) sits still, and the outer side (towards tire) will do all the movement. when you apply engine vacuum (2wd) you are over-riding the spring tension, and compressing the actuator. this pulls the toothed ring off of the wheel hub. the toothed ring is part of the actuator, and it rotates with the axle shaft...... it is always engaged to the axle splines. and, then when you switch to 4wd, the solenoid dumps the vacuum from the actuators, and the spring then expands them. this forces the toothed ring outwards, and engages the axle shaft to the wheel hub.(it is about just over 1/4" wide, and rides half way on the axle, and half way on the hub)..... yeah, not much really grabbing there..... not very strong, but seems to work ok.
i hope this helps you understand whats happening with the system. i just had to replace both of mine a month or so ago. they are easy to change, but since your under warranty you wont have to worry about it.
i would ask them to do a leak down test on each actuator...... also, when they apply vacuum to the actuators with a hand pump, try to turn the axles then.... you will be able to monitor the vacuum applied, and feel for any binding. if the actuator is working correctly, then the axle will spin very easily.
let us know what you find out !!!
what year is the truck? how many miles? it really sounds to me like you have a bad actuator. and, one bad one can cause the other to go bad if it has a vacuum leak. if it doesnt have a vacuum leak, but instead is just really sluggish and doesnt fully disengage, then you can ultimately eat up the wheel hub.
you see, the way these actuators works is this:
the have an internal spring which applies pressure to expand them. the inside of the actuator (towards engine) sits still, and the outer side (towards tire) will do all the movement. when you apply engine vacuum (2wd) you are over-riding the spring tension, and compressing the actuator. this pulls the toothed ring off of the wheel hub. the toothed ring is part of the actuator, and it rotates with the axle shaft...... it is always engaged to the axle splines. and, then when you switch to 4wd, the solenoid dumps the vacuum from the actuators, and the spring then expands them. this forces the toothed ring outwards, and engages the axle shaft to the wheel hub.(it is about just over 1/4" wide, and rides half way on the axle, and half way on the hub)..... yeah, not much really grabbing there..... not very strong, but seems to work ok.
i hope this helps you understand whats happening with the system. i just had to replace both of mine a month or so ago. they are easy to change, but since your under warranty you wont have to worry about it.
i would ask them to do a leak down test on each actuator...... also, when they apply vacuum to the actuators with a hand pump, try to turn the axles then.... you will be able to monitor the vacuum applied, and feel for any binding. if the actuator is working correctly, then the axle will spin very easily.
let us know what you find out !!!
03-18-2009, 02:42 AM
#9
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I have the exact opposite problem, I have an 05 that will not go into 4 wheel drive easily (without grinding)... The grinding happens when I attempt to engage 4x4.
I tore the hub apart tonight (just to look in) and found the vacuum seems fine. When running in 2 wheel drive the ring gear is pulled back (toward the motor). When I shut off the truck, or engage the 4 wheel drive the ring slides out (releases vacuum), but very slowly, maybe 20 seconds to slide all the way out. When I do this while moving the grinding happens (like the spring does not have the "power" to push the gears together)... If stop the truck to engage and am patient it engages and stays engaged. and works just fine.
My questions... This return spring, can I access this, if so how? What else besides a weakened spring might cause what I am seeing (slow movement on release of vacuum).
Thanks for the great thread and great information.
I tore the hub apart tonight (just to look in) and found the vacuum seems fine. When running in 2 wheel drive the ring gear is pulled back (toward the motor). When I shut off the truck, or engage the 4 wheel drive the ring slides out (releases vacuum), but very slowly, maybe 20 seconds to slide all the way out. When I do this while moving the grinding happens (like the spring does not have the "power" to push the gears together)... If stop the truck to engage and am patient it engages and stays engaged. and works just fine.
My questions... This return spring, can I access this, if so how? What else besides a weakened spring might cause what I am seeing (slow movement on release of vacuum).
Thanks for the great thread and great information.
03-19-2009, 01:09 PM
#10
Alright, it's fixed!
Tested the operation of the IWE solenoid by measuring for vacuum (21")/lack of vacuum and everything checked out fine.
Then did a leakdown test on each IWE (they are allowed to lose 1" of vacuum per minute, no more), and they checked out fine too.
Jacked up each side of the truck (or the whole front if you can), engine on, 2WD, and turned each wheel by hand. Noticed that the right wheel spun WITH its half-shaft (bad) and the left wheel spun independent of its half-shaft (good). Clearly the right-side IWE was not disengaging.
Next applied vacuum with hand vacuum pump to the right-side IWE with the engine off and even 16" of vacuum did not cause the IWE to disengage, so the problem was clearly the IWE. Replaced the IWE (saw the old one was broken when removed). Done and done!
So the noise I was hearing was the differential being spun by the half-shaft which did not disengage from the right-side IWE when in 2WD.
Tested the operation of the IWE solenoid by measuring for vacuum (21")/lack of vacuum and everything checked out fine.
Then did a leakdown test on each IWE (they are allowed to lose 1" of vacuum per minute, no more), and they checked out fine too.
Jacked up each side of the truck (or the whole front if you can), engine on, 2WD, and turned each wheel by hand. Noticed that the right wheel spun WITH its half-shaft (bad) and the left wheel spun independent of its half-shaft (good). Clearly the right-side IWE was not disengaging.
Next applied vacuum with hand vacuum pump to the right-side IWE with the engine off and even 16" of vacuum did not cause the IWE to disengage, so the problem was clearly the IWE. Replaced the IWE (saw the old one was broken when removed). Done and done!
So the noise I was hearing was the differential being spun by the half-shaft which did not disengage from the right-side IWE when in 2WD.