Tensioner pulley?
#11
Senior Member
From what you describe it doesn't sound like its your solenoid. The fact that the problem goes away and reappears when you switch in and out of 4wd would indicate that the solenoid is doing its job. You can confirm by removing the vacuum line from the solenoid, turn it slightly and reconnect only the supply line (I believe the top one is the supply line but you can tell because it comes from the drivers side of the engine bay). With just the supply line connected, start the engine and keep the 4x4 selector in the 2H position, you should feel vacuum on the open port of the solenoid. Put the 4x4 selector in the 4H position, there should be no vacuum at the open port of the solenoid. If the selector switch makes no difference to vacuum, replace the solenoid.
The symptoms you have indicate either a vacuum leak, or one or both of your actuators are bad. If you have access to a vacuum pump you can check your actuators, otherwise you will have to rule out a vacuum leak and assume it's the actuators if no leak is present.
The symptoms you have indicate either a vacuum leak, or one or both of your actuators are bad. If you have access to a vacuum pump you can check your actuators, otherwise you will have to rule out a vacuum leak and assume it's the actuators if no leak is present.
#12
Senior Member
The solenoid may have failed, test using the procedure I posted above and replace if necessary.
Partially engaged hubs usually means a vacuum leak or failed actuators so even if the solenoid is bad there may be issues elsewhere.
You can try disconnecting the vacuum line from the solenoid and pluging both holes in the line and checking to see if the noise goes away. Removing the vacuum from the actuators will keep the actuators in the engaged position, if you still get a noise the actuators have failed in a partially engaged position. If the noise goes away you can drive it like that until you can get the issue addressed properly without harm. Even though the hubs will be engaged all the time it will only be in 4wd when the transfer case is engaged using the selector switch on the dash.
If the noise goes away with the vacuum disconnected you need to figure out if it's a vacuum leak or bad actuators that's the issue. You can easily test the actuators with a vacuum pump but will have to do process of elimination if you don't.
Partially engaged hubs usually means a vacuum leak or failed actuators so even if the solenoid is bad there may be issues elsewhere.
You can try disconnecting the vacuum line from the solenoid and pluging both holes in the line and checking to see if the noise goes away. Removing the vacuum from the actuators will keep the actuators in the engaged position, if you still get a noise the actuators have failed in a partially engaged position. If the noise goes away you can drive it like that until you can get the issue addressed properly without harm. Even though the hubs will be engaged all the time it will only be in 4wd when the transfer case is engaged using the selector switch on the dash.
If the noise goes away with the vacuum disconnected you need to figure out if it's a vacuum leak or bad actuators that's the issue. You can easily test the actuators with a vacuum pump but will have to do process of elimination if you don't.
#14
Senior Member
I just noticed you have another thread specific to the error codes, what @F150Torqued posted makes a lot of sense so everything may be related.
Last edited by fatedstranger; 10-15-2015 at 07:50 PM.
#15
Fastedger I replaced the actuator on the drivers side (where my rattling noise) and it still rattles. I did the solenoid test and it is working. So I guess I have a damn vacuum leak somewhere. I'm tired of messing with it
#17
Here's a video of the noise. Wheels spin freely in 2 wd and axles spin with wheels when in 4wd. Getting vacuum to each actuator and solenoid checks out. Any ideas? I'm sick of messing with this thing. Well scratch that can't get the video to upload
Last edited by 4nwtf; 11-08-2015 at 08:47 PM.
#18
Senior Member
I had the noise/vibration on the drivers side but the problem turned out to be on the pass side. I had a new one installed on pass and all is well.
except for my wallet, I had the dealer do it
except for my wallet, I had the dealer do it
#19
Senior Member
Then stop tossing money at it!!
Diagnose the issue before buying and installing parts. I cannot say this enough. Stop making assumptions and hoping you get it right.
Borrow a vacuum tester from your local parts store and start testing everywhere. There is a good rundown on procedure on this site and many others. It is very simple to do and you can figure out exactly where the problem is.
Post a link to the video instead of posting it.
Diagnose the issue before buying and installing parts. I cannot say this enough. Stop making assumptions and hoping you get it right.
Borrow a vacuum tester from your local parts store and start testing everywhere. There is a good rundown on procedure on this site and many others. It is very simple to do and you can figure out exactly where the problem is.
Post a link to the video instead of posting it.
#20
Mark
iTrader: (1)
amen Brother !!