stuck open fuel injector
12-02-2015, 09:34 PM
#1
stuck open fuel injector
So on the way home the other day from visiting family for Thanksgiving, the truck (2005 5.4 screw) starts to lose power. My wife says it feels weird so she pulls over at which point the thing dies. Try to start it a few times, no ignition and get smoke coming from the exhaust. Happened to have my bluetooth obd reader so plug it up and see there's a cylinder 3 misfire code. Pure awesomeness, stranded 300 miles from home. After $700 dollars, a hotel room, rental car, and having the truck transported home I start troubleshooting.
Thought it might be a fuel issue, so I invest in a fuel pressure tester just to find out there's no shrader valve on the fuel rail, hopefully I can return it. I plug in my SCT scanner and find that it has a fuel rail pressure monitor in the data logging section. Go key on to power the pump and within 5 seconds the rail pressure bleeds off to around 3PSI. Get my daughter to key on while I clamp the fuel line and it still bleeds off. I pull the passenger side fuel rail and have her turn the key on, the #3 injector starts spraying fuel everywhere.
I find online that there's an extended warranty for the injectors on the 5.4. I'm under the 120k miles but two months over the 11 years going by the build date on the door sticker. Brings me to my question, is the build date the start of the warranty and if not, how do I find out? Having the dealer or Ford run the VIN? I bought this truck used so I'm not sure.
I'm willing to bet I'm SOL warranty wise if it is. I figure at a minimum the injectors and cats need replaced. Hopefully the engine and valvetrain didn't get damaged while I was cranking it. I pulled all the plugs and cranked it over to blow out any fuel, a lot came out. Sounded pretty smooth while turning over, but I know that doesn't really indicate anything. Was going to do a compression check but of course Ford decided to use a bastard sized plug threads on this engine and none of the five adapters with my tester fit so I need to figure out the size and order one.
I'm just venting a little. I'm going to be pissed if the engine is done and they won't cover it. Hell, if they would have made it common knowledge that the injectors were pieces of **** on this year I would have replaced them as preventive maintenance. Ford doesn't have a good track record in my opinion. Got a mustang that blew the plug out of the head because there was only three threads, and now an f150 with **** injectors.
Thought it might be a fuel issue, so I invest in a fuel pressure tester just to find out there's no shrader valve on the fuel rail, hopefully I can return it. I plug in my SCT scanner and find that it has a fuel rail pressure monitor in the data logging section. Go key on to power the pump and within 5 seconds the rail pressure bleeds off to around 3PSI. Get my daughter to key on while I clamp the fuel line and it still bleeds off. I pull the passenger side fuel rail and have her turn the key on, the #3 injector starts spraying fuel everywhere.
I find online that there's an extended warranty for the injectors on the 5.4. I'm under the 120k miles but two months over the 11 years going by the build date on the door sticker. Brings me to my question, is the build date the start of the warranty and if not, how do I find out? Having the dealer or Ford run the VIN? I bought this truck used so I'm not sure.
I'm willing to bet I'm SOL warranty wise if it is. I figure at a minimum the injectors and cats need replaced. Hopefully the engine and valvetrain didn't get damaged while I was cranking it. I pulled all the plugs and cranked it over to blow out any fuel, a lot came out. Sounded pretty smooth while turning over, but I know that doesn't really indicate anything. Was going to do a compression check but of course Ford decided to use a bastard sized plug threads on this engine and none of the five adapters with my tester fit so I need to figure out the size and order one.
I'm just venting a little. I'm going to be pissed if the engine is done and they won't cover it. Hell, if they would have made it common knowledge that the injectors were pieces of **** on this year I would have replaced them as preventive maintenance. Ford doesn't have a good track record in my opinion. Got a mustang that blew the plug out of the head because there was only three threads, and now an f150 with **** injectors.
12-03-2015, 06:37 AM
#2
Mark
iTrader: (1)
why not try and replace #3 injector and plug... see if the does it...
12-03-2015, 01:07 PM
#4
The correct adapter for my compression tester will be here Saturday so I can perform that check. Don't think I want to change just one injector though. When I found the #3 was leaking, at first I just pulled that plug, disconnected the fuel shutoff switch and tried to crank it. At that point it was hydrolocked and wouldn't crank. That's when I pulled all the plugs and cranked it. There might be a leaky one on the driver side also.
Once I get the adapter I'll check compression. If that's good I'll replace all the injectors. I'll hold off on the cats to see how it runs at that point.
A question about doing a compression check. Being a throttle by wire setup theres no lever to hold the throttle open. Will just holding the pedal down do it, or does it use other sensors and the computer to determine how much to open the throttle? trying to figure out if I have to pull the intake assembly and physically wedge the throttle plate open.
Once I get the adapter I'll check compression. If that's good I'll replace all the injectors. I'll hold off on the cats to see how it runs at that point.
A question about doing a compression check. Being a throttle by wire setup theres no lever to hold the throttle open. Will just holding the pedal down do it, or does it use other sensors and the computer to determine how much to open the throttle? trying to figure out if I have to pull the intake assembly and physically wedge the throttle plate open.
12-03-2015, 02:14 PM
#5
Mark
iTrader: (1)
you don't need to mess with the throttle during a compression test of your cylinder...screw it into the spark plug hole and crank it for a second... the gauge will register your cylinder compression ...
12-06-2015, 04:49 AM
#6
Senior Member
If you attempted to crank a hydro-locked engine, there's a good possibility you now have a bent rod.
12-06-2015, 09:07 AM
#7
So on the way home the other day from visiting family for Thanksgiving, the truck (2005 5.4 screw) starts to lose power. My wife says it feels weird so she pulls over at which point the thing dies. Try to start it a few times, no ignition and get smoke coming from the exhaust. Happened to have my bluetooth obd reader so plug it up and see there's a cylinder 3 misfire code. Pure awesomeness, stranded 300 miles from home. After $700 dollars, a hotel room, rental car, and having the truck transported home I start troubleshooting.
Thought it might be a fuel issue, so I invest in a fuel pressure tester just to find out there's no shrader valve on the fuel rail, hopefully I can return it. I plug in my SCT scanner and find that it has a fuel rail pressure monitor in the data logging section. Go key on to power the pump and within 5 seconds the rail pressure bleeds off to around 3PSI. Get my daughter to key on while I clamp the fuel line and it still bleeds off. I pull the passenger side fuel rail and have her turn the key on, the #3 injector starts spraying fuel everywhere.
I find online that there's an extended warranty for the injectors on the 5.4. I'm under the 120k miles but two months over the 11 years going by the build date on the door sticker. Brings me to my question, is the build date the start of the warranty and if not, how do I find out? Having the dealer or Ford run the VIN? I bought this truck used so I'm not sure.
I'm willing to bet I'm SOL warranty wise if it is. I figure at a minimum the injectors and cats need replaced. Hopefully the engine and valvetrain didn't get damaged while I was cranking it. I pulled all the plugs and cranked it over to blow out any fuel, a lot came out. Sounded pretty smooth while turning over, but I know that doesn't really indicate anything. Was going to do a compression check but of course Ford decided to use a bastard sized plug threads on this engine and none of the five adapters with my tester fit so I need to figure out the size and order one.
I'm just venting a little. I'm going to be pissed if the engine is done and they won't cover it. Hell, if they would have made it common knowledge that the injectors were pieces of **** on this year I would have replaced them as preventive maintenance. Ford doesn't have a good track record in my opinion. Got a mustang that blew the plug out of the head because there was only three threads, and now an f150 with **** injectors.
Thought it might be a fuel issue, so I invest in a fuel pressure tester just to find out there's no shrader valve on the fuel rail, hopefully I can return it. I plug in my SCT scanner and find that it has a fuel rail pressure monitor in the data logging section. Go key on to power the pump and within 5 seconds the rail pressure bleeds off to around 3PSI. Get my daughter to key on while I clamp the fuel line and it still bleeds off. I pull the passenger side fuel rail and have her turn the key on, the #3 injector starts spraying fuel everywhere.
I find online that there's an extended warranty for the injectors on the 5.4. I'm under the 120k miles but two months over the 11 years going by the build date on the door sticker. Brings me to my question, is the build date the start of the warranty and if not, how do I find out? Having the dealer or Ford run the VIN? I bought this truck used so I'm not sure.
I'm willing to bet I'm SOL warranty wise if it is. I figure at a minimum the injectors and cats need replaced. Hopefully the engine and valvetrain didn't get damaged while I was cranking it. I pulled all the plugs and cranked it over to blow out any fuel, a lot came out. Sounded pretty smooth while turning over, but I know that doesn't really indicate anything. Was going to do a compression check but of course Ford decided to use a bastard sized plug threads on this engine and none of the five adapters with my tester fit so I need to figure out the size and order one.
I'm just venting a little. I'm going to be pissed if the engine is done and they won't cover it. Hell, if they would have made it common knowledge that the injectors were pieces of **** on this year I would have replaced them as preventive maintenance. Ford doesn't have a good track record in my opinion. Got a mustang that blew the plug out of the head because there was only three threads, and now an f150 with **** injectors.
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12-06-2015, 12:55 PM
#8
Got the compression check done. These are the most inconsistent number I've ever seen. Granted I don't have the highest quality gauge, but I've used it before and it's read pretty even across the cylinders.
Here are the results.
1: 95
2: 78
3: 115 (this is the cylinder that had the verified open injector)
4: 92
5: 45
6: 190
7: 52
8: 65
Not sure what a normal reading for this engine is, but the last time i did my mustang, which is 4.6 and had higher compression all cylinder were from 185-195.
Here are the results.
1: 95
2: 78
3: 115 (this is the cylinder that had the verified open injector)
4: 92
5: 45
6: 190
7: 52
8: 65
Not sure what a normal reading for this engine is, but the last time i did my mustang, which is 4.6 and had higher compression all cylinder were from 185-195.
12-06-2015, 12:57 PM
#9
12-06-2015, 01:14 PM
#10
Any compression reading less than 100psi = a new/rebuilt engine. With that said are you performing a compression test properly? When doing a compression check all spark plugs should be removed and the throttle held wide open.
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