I guess you can still get caliper rebuild kits but for the price difference I think it's usually better to just get new ones. If I was doing a customers truck I would recommend replacing both calipers but if it was mine as long as the other caliper's bleeder breaks free easy I would take it apart, make sure the pistons are free, wire brush and lube up the slide pins and let her roll. Personally I would do a pad slap at this point as long as your rotors are in good shape just because I don't like running unevenly worn brake pads. It's all up to you, you're going to have to check the other caliper all out anyway so if you'd rather just replace it while you're at it that's fine too. I would save the money myself. Make sure you check your brake hoses all out, the older body style like mine would leak internally and make the rubber swell all up and they'd actually burst on a panic stop. Not good.
I'd just replace the pads and drive it, if you get a pulsation from the heat build up take it somewhere to just get the rotors machined, that should be cheaper than buying a set, but it's hard to say.
'97 F-150 4.6L 5-speed Off-road: PI head swap, 3.8L Taurus E-fan w/DCC controller, VMP Tuning custom tunes with SCT X3, Pacesetter shorties, Gotts mod, 3" body lift, 285/70/17 Nitto Crossteks, Expedition front brake swap, Herculiner two-tone, 2-6" driving lights behind billet grille, 2-10" subs under rear seat.
Last edited by Austin97; 05-28-2011 at 10:55 AM.