ALBERTA_LEXUS

Hey guys, well heres what happened. I bought an after market sub/box and amp along with a PAC LC-2 ( LOC with sub control ). I hooked everything up and it was working then I went to tighten my power cable and accidentally touched the amp and the positive at the same time. Well I ****ed up and I think the amp is blown.

So today I go and buy another amp to install and still nothing works. I get 12 volts on the power wire with the truck off and then when I turn the truck on it drops to 8 volts WTF. Sometime it has 12 volts and sometime there is only 8 volts at the amp. This also goes for the remote wire. I tied into the green wire with a yellow stripe as suggested on here and for whatever reason sometimes the voltage reads 8 volts there as well.

I think there could be a short maybe somewhere???? I dunno, all the wire is brand new and I didn't jam it anywhere so it shouldn't have got cut. I am lost guys, I am beyond frustrated and I am ready to lose my mind.

I really need your help guys. Thanks.

PS I have an audiophile system for sale now

Alex

ATOM

did you put a new fuse in the amp power cable? also your amp should have not blown, their is supposed to be a fuse in/on the amp too..

ALBERTA_LEXUS

Yup fuse was never blown in the amp or the in line fuse by the battery. I am thinking that the old amp may not have blown but something is screwed up. I run a volt meter on the power cable at the inline fuse location and it reads 12+volts all the time but at the amp it reads 12+ volts sometimes and other times it only reads 8 volts.

ATOM

hmmm weird....have to checked just the cable, could it be junk or broke inside somwhere or possibly the shielding is missing???

bond007

Check your ground. If you are testing your 12v at the amp with the multi-meter and your using the ground at the amp, it may show false or bad readings if your ground is bad. You can test this my simply grounding the meter elsewhere. Another thing that sometimes happens, if the fuse holder at the battery isn't high quality, sometimes the holder actually melts and messes all the connections internally before the fuse blows. Last thing if those two fail, make sure you didn't accidentally run a screw through the power wire, or tighten a seat bracket over it, etc. Hope that helps

ALBERTA_LEXUS

Thanks, I will try just running a ground right from the amp to the negative terminal on the battery to see if that helps. I will keep you guys posted but if anyone has any other ideas let me know. Thanks

Ian_T_S

I wouldn't run the amp ground to the battery. You may run into an issue of draining the battery. Find a good mount bolt, I used one of the seat bolts in the back as my ground. I used to sandpaper to remove the paint and get a good connection. I had to install a transformer because the factory subwoofer wiring uses 5 volts and the subs would "pop" everytime I turned the truck on and off. does your deck still work. I had one a while where it didnt blow any fuses but fried the amp inside the radio it self and no sound would play. At that point it was either pay another 150 buck to get it fixed or I used the factory installed amplifier for the door speakers and my after market amp for the truck. I just had to hardwire the radio and amp together through a common fuse or other 12 volt connection.