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Steel timing chain tensioners

Old 10-04-2015, 09:46 PM
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Default Steel timing chain tensioners

Ho makes the steel timing chain tensioners, I have been looking for them but cannot find! Any help would be much appreciated.
Old 10-04-2015, 09:53 PM
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I believe that the steel ones were on the 99-03 5.4 engines. Give RockAuto a try, they may have them. In my opinion though, its not the actual body of the tensioner that is the problem, its the crappy seal that is on it. I changed mine out last year and both had blown seals on them. Good luck in your search.
Tom
Old 10-05-2015, 08:09 AM
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Not too go off topic, but IMO, for what it's worth, I don't think the steel tensioners are any better than plastic. The key is getting a tensioners with a good seal.

I just did my timing components with the Cloyes kit, and the seal is more of an O-ring style. The old tensioner was more of a flat gasket.

Just an FYI.
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Old 10-05-2015, 08:39 AM
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I bought mine from FORD. The orings blow out. They are unreliable.
Old 10-05-2015, 11:18 AM
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Ho makes the steel timing chain tensioners, I have been looking for them but cannot find! Any help would be much appreciated.
I got the OEM cast iron tensioners for when I do my timing set. F6AZ-6L266-CA and F6AZ-6L266-DA are the Ford part numbers.

Not too go off topic, but IMO, for what it's worth, I don't think the steel tensioners are any better than plastic. The key is getting a tensioners with a good seal.

I just did my timing components with the Cloyes kit, and the seal is more of an O-ring style. The old tensioner was more of a flat gasket.

Just an FYI.
I know they updated the seal at some point but I'm not sure when. I have read that it was before 2008 and I know the tensioner seals still fail on model years after that. Mine is a 2008 and I'm doing my timing set because one of my tensioners failed.

The cast iron tensioners also have an automatic ratchet system so it will keep tension even if the hydraulic pressure bleeds off for any reason, much better design if you ask me.
Old 10-05-2015, 11:46 AM
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Originally Posted by fatedstranger
I got the OEM cast iron tensioners for when I do my timing set. F6AZ-6L266-CA and F6AZ-6L266-DA are the Ford part numbers.



I know they updated the seal at some point but I'm not sure when. I have read that it was before 2008 and I know the tensioner seals still fail on model years after that. Mine is a 2008 and I'm doing my timing set because one of my tensioners failed.

The cast iron tensioners also have an automatic ratchet system so it will keep tension even if the hydraulic pressure bleeds off for any reason, much better design if you ask me.
Interesting. Do all of them have this system, or something similar. Isn't that why they have the "grenade pin"?
Old 10-06-2015, 09:19 AM
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Originally Posted by dyeguy1212
Interesting. Do all of them have this system, or something similar. Isn't that why they have the "grenade pin"?
I haven't really looked much into aftermarket, but all the cast iron tensioners I have seen include a ratchet mechanism, non of the plastic ones do.

@Fordjunkync posted pictures of several tensioners, both plastic and cast iron, in another thread here. There are pictures of Cloyes and Melling cast iron tensioners and both of those have a ratchet mechanism as well.

The grenade pin is to keep the tensioner piston compressed to ease installation. Without the pin you would have to fight with the tensioner during installation. You pull the pin after all the timing components have been installed and you have verified proper alignment. Once it has been removed it is discarded.
Old 10-06-2015, 11:17 AM
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Originally Posted by fatedstranger
I haven't really looked much into aftermarket, but all the cast iron tensioners I have seen include a ratchet mechanism, non of the plastic ones do.

@Fordjunkync posted pictures of several tensioners, both plastic and cast iron, in another thread here. There are pictures of Cloyes and Melling cast iron tensioners and both of those have a ratchet mechanism as well.

The grenade pin is to keep the tensioner piston compressed to ease installation. Without the pin you would have to fight with the tensioner during installation. You pull the pin after all the timing components have been installed and you have verified proper alignment. Once it has been removed it is discarded.
Right, because there is (I assume) a really strong spring pushing that part out, which would keep tension without oil pressure. I was just curious if this ratcheting system was different.
Old 10-06-2015, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by dyeguy1212
Right, because there is (I assume) a really strong spring pushing that part out, which would keep tension without oil pressure. I was just curious if this ratcheting system was different.
The ratcheting system is additional protection to compensate for wear and stretching of the timing components. If the timing chain starts to get slack the rack will advance a tooth and will be locked in position by a pawl. This minimizes backlash since the slack is restricted by the distance between the teeth of the rack.

The spring is sufficient to take up the slack during normal start up, but once the engine is started the spring alone is not enough. If the seal on the tensioner is good, and the system is primed with oil, it's not a problem, but if the seal goes bad, or oil pressure bleeds off for any reason, it takes time to build pressure which is why the chain slaps at startup. The cast iron tensioners are the best of both worlds as there is no seal to fail, and they also have a ratchet mechanism to compensate for any loss in hydraulic pressure.
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Old 10-06-2015, 12:06 PM
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Originally Posted by fatedstranger
The ratcheting system is additional protection to compensate for wear and stretching of the timing components. If the timing chain starts to get slack the rack will advance a tooth and will be locked in position by a pawl. This minimizes backlash since the slack is restricted by the distance between the teeth of the rack.

The spring is sufficient to take up the slack during normal start up, but once the engine is started the spring alone is not enough. If the seal on the tensioner is good, and the system is primed with oil, it's not a problem, but if the seal goes bad, or oil pressure bleeds off for any reason, it takes time to build pressure which is why the chain slaps at startup. The cast iron tensioners are the best of both worlds as there is no seal to fail, and they also have a ratchet mechanism to compensate for any loss in hydraulic pressure.
NOW YOU TELL ME!?!?! I want that on my truck!!

I see now that the cast iron are the only ones with the ratcheting system? Bummed I didn't know these existed

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