scottkcoop

So I have been trying to figure out the (seems to be common) 'door ajar' issue. My truck doesn't recognize when the door is open. Annoying because then my radio doesn't turn off, obviously, besides the cab lights not turning on.

So I had the door panel off earlier, quite a pain to get off (until i figured out you have to remove the speaker). What am I looking for? There should be a switch that tells the truck the door is open/closed right? Where is this? Is that what the rubber thing is by the lock?

Now...I gave up on that until I could ask some advice, now when I put the door back together, the speaker stopped working. Then as if it were some disease, the passenger side and the rest of the truck speakers stopped as well, and now only the bass is audible. There was some crackling in the passenger side speaker, and smelled like electrical smoke right before it went out. I can't figure out what has happened. Fuses? Which fuse if there is one? But that wouldn't explain why the drivers side went out before the others???

scottkcoop

So here's an update (still working on this!!!)---

I checked the wires at the doorjamb, where the sleeve covers them, about 6 wires were completely severed, two being the speaker wires, one being the purple door signal wire.

So I got them all spliced back up and good, now the 'door ajar' light works for my drivers door, as well as the chime and lights. However, the speakers still aren't working.

The only noise I get from them is a crackling noise, but the subwoofer works fine. What on earth could this be? I am just stumped...It will kill me if I have a truck with zero audio capabilities!

homer

So right now you have no speakers but your sub works? I'm assuming you're using an aftermarket deck?


My fear is, did you cook the built-in amp inside the deck. The sub could still work if it's using the pre-out's (possibly). You may have to disconnect the speakers at the deck and start tracing. If the deck can't output to one speaker, you've probably burned something inside it (built-in amp).

scottkcoop

How can I test the amp? I am using the factory deck with factory sub under the back seats. I guess this would be a good time to upgrade to an aftermarket sub and amp if I did in fact burn it up.

Yes, the woofer works fine but none of the speakers at this point. A little crackling when I first start up the truck and more if I turn on the radio.

homer

That's what I was afraid of (factory deck)...... You would have to disconnect speakers independently at the deck (which means cutting wires = not fun). It definitely won't be a fuse as you would have lost the entire deck altogether.


The first thing I'd do is pull the deck out (which is easy anyways). Disconnect the connector, and measure the resistance between each speaker (with an ohmmeter). This way, if you have any shorts it's immediately known. There'll be some resistance obviously due to the speaker (unless you unplug each one - could be a pain) but it shouldn't be a dead short. If you find a dead short (and I'd guess drivers door), you might get off lucky and the built-in amp is just cutting itself off for safety. If you're unlucky and there's no shorts, you might have killed the built-in amp (thus the smell/smoke). In either case, you should check to ensure you don't have any speakers shorting (up to the wiring or at the speaker itself). I'm hoping it's still shorting and it's a matter of fixing the short but it's difficult to say. I can get you the speaker wire colors at the deck but let me know which year your truck is first so I can be 100% sure of the connector (not that they've changed a lot I believe). Speaker wires are usually easy to identify though, one is solid for positive/negative, opposite polarity has a stripe through it (usually).

homer

Ok, well I'm wrong about the speaker wires having the stripe in our case....


Here's what I show for a 2008 F-150:


Left Front - OG-LG + / LB-WH -
Right Front - WH-LG + / DG-OG -
Left Rear - GY-LB (or LG-BK) + / TN-YE (or WH) -
Right Rear - OG-RD (or VT-WH) + / BN-PK (or YE-RD) -


the OR is WITH DVD

homer

You can also try this test however if the built-in amp is shot I wouldn't consider this test to be 100% accurate.

scottkcoop

Alright thanks a lot homer!!! When I get off work I'm going straight for the deck. I'll let you know if I find anything. I think the wiring is the same in your '08 as my '07...the wire colors are the same if I remember right from yesterday

scottkcoop

Okay so...tested the continuity to the speakers...I have a complete circuit to the speakers. Tested on the speakers themselves for power and I am not getting anything. So...complete circuit, no power, deck itself has power also. Does that mean my amp is toast?

powerranger262

I would just start shopping for a new deck.