Speaker size in Super cab??
09-09-2012, 12:38 PM
#41
Junior Member
The link on ebay were the same ones I recommended. That's a good price for that pair of speakers. They are normally around $160 everywhere else. I'm excited for your install. It should look real good and sound excellent. For your ground, it depends on where you are going to mount the amp. I did mine on the passenger side behind the rear seat. I just drilled a hole into the floor board and used a rubber grommet, then drilled a hole in the frame, and bolted the ground directly to the frame. Don't use a screw, use an actual bolt. After I bolted it, I used some rubberized undercoating over the exposed metal and called it a day.
09-09-2012, 02:39 PM
#42
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by The Doc
The link on ebay were the same ones I recommended. That's a good price for that pair of speakers. They are normally around $160 everywhere else. I'm excited for your install. It should look real good and sound excellent. For your ground, it depends on where you are going to mount the amp. I did mine on the passenger side behind the rear seat. I just drilled a hole into the floor board and used a rubber grommet, then drilled a hole in the frame, and bolted the ground directly to the frame. Don't use a screw, use an actual bolt. After I bolted it, I used some rubberized undercoating over the exposed metal and called it a day.
09-09-2012, 08:22 PM
#43
Junior Member
I would recommend that you do it all at once. You can buy your stuff in steps, but just wait til you have it all to install it all. If you don't, you'll end up having to take stuff apart a million times, and it's a pain. Here is how I would do a complete install:
Head unit: pretty self explainatory.
Amp: Take the cab down to nothing. Take the console, seats, carpeting, and all the plastic kick panels and door sills out. Run your wiring so it's separate via what they are for... IE:
Run your power wire and remote wire down the passenger side, under the door sill. There is a wire organizer under it anyways and you can just run the wire inside it (since that's where the battery is located)
Run your RCA's down the center under the console toward the driver side. You can keep the length of the RCA's to a shorter length by doing this, and you keep interference away from them from the power wire.
Then run your speaker wire down the center under the console on the passenger side, up under the kick panels, thru the rubber boot into the door and then into your door. This applies to both front and rear doors. Just use a wire coat hanger cut to about 12" to feed through the rubber boot from the door, tape your speaker wire to it with electrical tape, then pull through.
For the amp's sub channel, just run the speaker wire up along the back of the truck under the back seat and over to the opposite side.
Speakers are easy. One goes in, the other one goes out. If you are planning on installing the speakers with the stock head unit, then you need some adapters. You can get them from Crutchfield. They are $12 a set and you will need 2 sets. That way you can run the speakers through the factory or aftermarket head unit til you are ready to run them via your amp. Just a word of advice, don't judge the speakers until you are running them via the amp. They will NOT sound that good being run off the factory or aftermarket head unit. It doesn't put out enough watts to really make the speakers do what they are intended to do.
The sub/box is pretty simple as well. You will have 2 sets of connections on the sub (it's a dual voice coil) Run one wire from one side of the sub positive to the other one. Run one wire from the sub side negative to the other, then run the positive to the terminal in the box and then the negative... Heres a wiring schematic so you can see what I mean:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...s.asp~Q~1~I~42
You want them run in PARALLEL, not in series. That way it maximizes the wattage coming from your amp. If you decide on another amp, let me know which one you get so I can see if it's 2 ohm stable, ect...
Chris
Head unit: pretty self explainatory.
Amp: Take the cab down to nothing. Take the console, seats, carpeting, and all the plastic kick panels and door sills out. Run your wiring so it's separate via what they are for... IE:
Run your power wire and remote wire down the passenger side, under the door sill. There is a wire organizer under it anyways and you can just run the wire inside it (since that's where the battery is located)
Run your RCA's down the center under the console toward the driver side. You can keep the length of the RCA's to a shorter length by doing this, and you keep interference away from them from the power wire.
Then run your speaker wire down the center under the console on the passenger side, up under the kick panels, thru the rubber boot into the door and then into your door. This applies to both front and rear doors. Just use a wire coat hanger cut to about 12" to feed through the rubber boot from the door, tape your speaker wire to it with electrical tape, then pull through.
For the amp's sub channel, just run the speaker wire up along the back of the truck under the back seat and over to the opposite side.
Speakers are easy. One goes in, the other one goes out. If you are planning on installing the speakers with the stock head unit, then you need some adapters. You can get them from Crutchfield. They are $12 a set and you will need 2 sets. That way you can run the speakers through the factory or aftermarket head unit til you are ready to run them via your amp. Just a word of advice, don't judge the speakers until you are running them via the amp. They will NOT sound that good being run off the factory or aftermarket head unit. It doesn't put out enough watts to really make the speakers do what they are intended to do.
The sub/box is pretty simple as well. You will have 2 sets of connections on the sub (it's a dual voice coil) Run one wire from one side of the sub positive to the other one. Run one wire from the sub side negative to the other, then run the positive to the terminal in the box and then the negative... Heres a wiring schematic so you can see what I mean:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...s.asp~Q~1~I~42
You want them run in PARALLEL, not in series. That way it maximizes the wattage coming from your amp. If you decide on another amp, let me know which one you get so I can see if it's 2 ohm stable, ect...
Chris
09-10-2012, 06:59 AM
#46
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by The Doc
I would recommend that you do it all at once. You can buy your stuff in steps, but just wait til you have it all to install it all. If you don't, you'll end up having to take stuff apart a million times, and it's a pain. Here is how I would do a complete install:
Head unit: pretty self explainatory.
Amp: Take the cab down to nothing. Take the console, seats, carpeting, and all the plastic kick panels and door sills out. Run your wiring so it's separate via what they are for... IE:
Run your power wire and remote wire down the passenger side, under the door sill. There is a wire organizer under it anyways and you can just run the wire inside it (since that's where the battery is located)
Run your RCA's down the center under the console toward the driver side. You can keep the length of the RCA's to a shorter length by doing this, and you keep interference away from them from the power wire.
Then run your speaker wire down the center under the console on the passenger side, up under the kick panels, thru the rubber boot into the door and then into your door. This applies to both front and rear doors. Just use a wire coat hanger cut to about 12" to feed through the rubber boot from the door, tape your speaker wire to it with electrical tape, then pull through.
For the amp's sub channel, just run the speaker wire up along the back of the truck under the back seat and over to the opposite side.
Speakers are easy. One goes in, the other one goes out. If you are planning on installing the speakers with the stock head unit, then you need some adapters. You can get them from Crutchfield. They are $12 a set and you will need 2 sets. That way you can run the speakers through the factory or aftermarket head unit til you are ready to run them via your amp. Just a word of advice, don't judge the speakers until you are running them via the amp. They will NOT sound that good being run off the factory or aftermarket head unit. It doesn't put out enough watts to really make the speakers do what they are intended to do.
The sub/box is pretty simple as well. You will have 2 sets of connections on the sub (it's a dual voice coil) Run one wire from one side of the sub positive to the other one. Run one wire from the sub side negative to the other, then run the positive to the terminal in the box and then the negative... Heres a wiring schematic so you can see what I mean:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...s.asp~Q~1~I~42
You want them run in PARALLEL, not in series. That way it maximizes the wattage coming from your amp. If you decide on another amp, let me know which one you get so I can see if it's 2 ohm stable, ect...
Chris
Head unit: pretty self explainatory.
Amp: Take the cab down to nothing. Take the console, seats, carpeting, and all the plastic kick panels and door sills out. Run your wiring so it's separate via what they are for... IE:
Run your power wire and remote wire down the passenger side, under the door sill. There is a wire organizer under it anyways and you can just run the wire inside it (since that's where the battery is located)
Run your RCA's down the center under the console toward the driver side. You can keep the length of the RCA's to a shorter length by doing this, and you keep interference away from them from the power wire.
Then run your speaker wire down the center under the console on the passenger side, up under the kick panels, thru the rubber boot into the door and then into your door. This applies to both front and rear doors. Just use a wire coat hanger cut to about 12" to feed through the rubber boot from the door, tape your speaker wire to it with electrical tape, then pull through.
For the amp's sub channel, just run the speaker wire up along the back of the truck under the back seat and over to the opposite side.
Speakers are easy. One goes in, the other one goes out. If you are planning on installing the speakers with the stock head unit, then you need some adapters. You can get them from Crutchfield. They are $12 a set and you will need 2 sets. That way you can run the speakers through the factory or aftermarket head unit til you are ready to run them via your amp. Just a word of advice, don't judge the speakers until you are running them via the amp. They will NOT sound that good being run off the factory or aftermarket head unit. It doesn't put out enough watts to really make the speakers do what they are intended to do.
The sub/box is pretty simple as well. You will have 2 sets of connections on the sub (it's a dual voice coil) Run one wire from one side of the sub positive to the other one. Run one wire from the sub side negative to the other, then run the positive to the terminal in the box and then the negative... Heres a wiring schematic so you can see what I mean:
http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/wo...s.asp~Q~1~I~42
You want them run in PARALLEL, not in series. That way it maximizes the wattage coming from your amp. If you decide on another amp, let me know which one you get so I can see if it's 2 ohm stable, ect...
Chris
The following users liked this post:
Ford123 (09-10-2012)
09-11-2012, 09:20 AM
#49
Junior Member
You shouldn't need any upgrades to the stock electric system other than doing the big 4. (Search on here, use 1/0 gauge wire) If you want, you can get the heavy duty alternator from another F150 your model year, that might help out a little bit. Just get a 1 farad capacitor and charge it correctly before you install it. You can youtube how to do it correctly. It's pretty easy.
09-14-2012, 02:03 PM
#50
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Originally Posted by The Doc
You shouldn't need any upgrades to the stock electric system other than doing the big 4. (Search on here, use 1/0 gauge wire) If you want, you can get the heavy duty alternator from another F150 your model year, that might help out a little bit. Just get a 1 farad capacitor and charge it correctly before you install it. You can youtube how to do it correctly. It's pretty easy.