spark plugs
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MGD (04-01-2014)
#22
Thanks Swain;
Y'all saved me the effort to dig all of that up!
MGD
PS - I'd like to caution folks about applying too much nickel A/S on the ground sleeve. It takes a while fer the carrier to burn away (leaving behind the nickel nodules that do the actual trick) - so you need to ensure the stuff does not migrate down and foul the tip while in it's "liquid & mobile" state. If it does,Instant misfires. All you need is a thin, light coat - do NOT "glop it on" - you don't need "plenty". Solve for all values of "plenty" - folks can get carried away.
Y'all saved me the effort to dig all of that up!
MGD
PS - I'd like to caution folks about applying too much nickel A/S on the ground sleeve. It takes a while fer the carrier to burn away (leaving behind the nickel nodules that do the actual trick) - so you need to ensure the stuff does not migrate down and foul the tip while in it's "liquid & mobile" state. If it does,Instant misfires. All you need is a thin, light coat - do NOT "glop it on" - you don't need "plenty". Solve for all values of "plenty" - folks can get carried away.
Last edited by MGD; 04-01-2014 at 08:56 AM.
#23
This is a good write up. https://www.f150forum.com/f72/how-sp...-3v-v8-116291/
I did mine yesterday. 150,000 miles on my 2004. All eight came out unbroken. Takes some time. Bought a Lisle extraction tool that I did not use. Also bought a plug socket from Amazon I think helped a lot.
3/8 Impact set on low. Cracked and sprayed Kroil on plugs then waited. I did it when engine was warm. Did one side then warmed truck again and did other side. Back passenger side was a pain. But with the socket and swivel and another extension was able to get it out with impact.
I did mine yesterday. 150,000 miles on my 2004. All eight came out unbroken. Takes some time. Bought a Lisle extraction tool that I did not use. Also bought a plug socket from Amazon I think helped a lot.
3/8 Impact set on low. Cracked and sprayed Kroil on plugs then waited. I did it when engine was warm. Did one side then warmed truck again and did other side. Back passenger side was a pain. But with the socket and swivel and another extension was able to get it out with impact.
#25
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
Thanks Swain; Y'all saved me the effort to dig all of that up! MGD PS - I'd like to caution folks about applying too much nickel A/S on the ground sleeve. It takes a while fer the carrier to burn away (leaving behind the nickel nodules that do the actual trick) - so you need to ensure the stuff does not migrate down and foul the tip while in it's "liquid & mobile" state. If it does,Instant misfires. All you need is a thin, light coat - do NOT "glop it on" - you don't need "plenty". Solve for all values of "plenty" - folks can get carried away.
Go easy on the anti seize fellas, and make sure to mix it well before use too.
#26
Your Boy Blue
Thread Starter
I figured id call around. All around 400 bucks for a shop! No way im paying that. Haha im gonna do it sunday or next weekend. Should I replace the coil packs too?
#27
TOTM November 2019
iTrader: (2)
Dont replace coil packs unless you know its bad. I would recommend replacing all 8 boots and springs ($32 for a set of 8 from Autozone) for the COP's though. I even go as far as sanding the copper contact inside the "nipple" of the coil with a paper type fingernail file cut in half length wise. I have gotten close to 200K on OEM COP's without ever replacing one, sold the truck first.
#29
Your Boy Blue
Thread Starter
#30
then it comes down to if you want to save money or not.. Misfire could be either or both... I would start with plugs, then if misfire is still there, then look at CoPs
if you have money and dont want to crawl back under hood get some new CoPs and plugs all at once...
if you have money and dont want to crawl back under hood get some new CoPs and plugs all at once...