Spark plug removal
04-04-2016, 02:43 PM
#1
Spark plug removal
So, I was attempting to remove my spark plugs from my Ford F-150 super crew with the 5.4 liter 3v triton. I broke the first two spark plugs off on the drivers side, the typical break. I bought the lisle extractor tool, and it worked like a charm.
I wanted to avoid breaking off the other spark plugs, so I decided to spray some lubricant in the remaining spark plug holes. I let it soak overnight. I took my air compressor and blew the holes out, then I took my $25 heat gun and put it on high DIRECTLY into the hole (being careful with nearby wires or parts that might melt. I let it heat the spark plug hole for about 5 minutes or so, then I removed the heat, put my socket in there, and gingerly loosened and removed the spark plug whole. This includes the back cylinder which is almost always the one that breaks off. I took my time loosening the spark plug. If it got to hard to loosen, then I tightened it and loosened it again.
My theory on this success was that I heated up the cylinder the spark plug goes into, expanding it just enough for the lubricant to leak down and assist me in extracting the plug whole. This is different than the warm engine recommendation because the engine is cooled when it runs. Direct heat into the cylinder creates conduction specifically to the cylinder this expanding IT ONLY allowing the removal of the spark plug whole.
I plan on doing the passenger side next, but I just wanted to share my experience and theory. See the pictures
I wanted to avoid breaking off the other spark plugs, so I decided to spray some lubricant in the remaining spark plug holes. I let it soak overnight. I took my air compressor and blew the holes out, then I took my $25 heat gun and put it on high DIRECTLY into the hole (being careful with nearby wires or parts that might melt. I let it heat the spark plug hole for about 5 minutes or so, then I removed the heat, put my socket in there, and gingerly loosened and removed the spark plug whole. This includes the back cylinder which is almost always the one that breaks off. I took my time loosening the spark plug. If it got to hard to loosen, then I tightened it and loosened it again.
My theory on this success was that I heated up the cylinder the spark plug goes into, expanding it just enough for the lubricant to leak down and assist me in extracting the plug whole. This is different than the warm engine recommendation because the engine is cooled when it runs. Direct heat into the cylinder creates conduction specifically to the cylinder this expanding IT ONLY allowing the removal of the spark plug whole.
I plan on doing the passenger side next, but I just wanted to share my experience and theory. See the pictures
04-04-2016, 04:22 PM
#3
LightningRod
@Tazzfx , thanks for sharing your trick for getting them out of there. By similar experience I have a Theory about the problem that you might find useful. I think MANY MANY brand new plugs get the ceramic cracked internally when they are forced right back into that damn carboned up hole. And I think that leads to continued random misfires after new plugs are installed. If the carbon seizes plugs sufficient to break on removal - what keeps it from breaking new ones screwing them in? More about how my theory developed is here:
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...6/#post3930018
Ever since then, I have not ran more than 60K miles on plugs, and have cleaned the carbon out of the holes as part of the plug job.
Combined with care and cleanliness, insuring good boots, dielectric grease on the Boots, etc, I have never again had any complaints about random misfires.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...6/#post3930018
Ever since then, I have not ran more than 60K miles on plugs, and have cleaned the carbon out of the holes as part of the plug job.
Combined with care and cleanliness, insuring good boots, dielectric grease on the Boots, etc, I have never again had any complaints about random misfires.
Last edited by F150Torqued; 04-04-2016 at 04:27 PM.
04-04-2016, 05:59 PM
#4
Yes. I was really careful! It also says use a heat gun for the instructions on the Lisle extractor tool, which is where I got the idea....
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650NutKase (04-04-2016)
04-04-2016, 10:25 PM
#6
LightningRod
Different THEORY on 2004-2008 Spark Plug problem
The "FIRST" time, I bought a set of brass bristle thread brushes, (similar to bottle brushes) with a "T" handle, from Harbor Freight - for about $19.99. Then with ALL plugs removed, I rotated the engine until each piston in turn was at TOP DEAD CENTER and used the bottle brush to burnish the carbon out of that hole. (That is a pretty important step to avoid the problem this forum member ran into: http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/13...l#post15064122
I fashioned a small piece of rag on a coat hanger, soaked it with carb cleaner, and ran it into the whole. If it came back the slightest bit dirty, I would burnish the heck out of that spark plug hole again with the bottle brush. I remembered how hard that carbon on the head surface can be when I have done valve jobs on my high school hot rod days. I knew it could be pretty tough to remove. But on subsequent times at about 60 thousand mile intervals, the carbon soaked rag has been about all that I have had to use. But when done, the plugs screw in by finger all the way to the thread seat. Then torque them down, stretch the COP spring, clean the boot and use dielectric grease and pop the COP in place.
PS - I do NOT use anti-seize. I know the TSB recommends it but I do NOT believe it does any good. I've seen too many posts where plugs still break on subsequent changes when "anti-seize" has been used. AND - Part of my THEORY is that the ANY material contacting the head / plug barrel disrupts the plugs "HEAT RANGE" -- which I believe explains the design of this ODD plug. I posted a detailed analysis and write up about this here: http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-...ml#post5161039
As always, I Hope this helps someone
I fashioned a small piece of rag on a coat hanger, soaked it with carb cleaner, and ran it into the whole. If it came back the slightest bit dirty, I would burnish the heck out of that spark plug hole again with the bottle brush. I remembered how hard that carbon on the head surface can be when I have done valve jobs on my high school hot rod days. I knew it could be pretty tough to remove. But on subsequent times at about 60 thousand mile intervals, the carbon soaked rag has been about all that I have had to use. But when done, the plugs screw in by finger all the way to the thread seat. Then torque them down, stretch the COP spring, clean the boot and use dielectric grease and pop the COP in place.
PS - I do NOT use anti-seize. I know the TSB recommends it but I do NOT believe it does any good. I've seen too many posts where plugs still break on subsequent changes when "anti-seize" has been used. AND - Part of my THEORY is that the ANY material contacting the head / plug barrel disrupts the plugs "HEAT RANGE" -- which I believe explains the design of this ODD plug. I posted a detailed analysis and write up about this here: http://www.f150online.com/forums/v8-...ml#post5161039
As always, I Hope this helps someone