NarkFX4

I will try and make this short and to the point.


2006 F150 FX4 88k miles, bought used 9 months ago. No previous owner history. I've only had the oil changed at the Ford dealership. I've put less than 3k miles on it.


Here is the codes the she threw.


P0305 Cylinder 5 Misfire Detected
P0307 Cylinder 7 Misfire Detected
P0300 Random Misfire Detected ( yeah no kidding )
Here come the Good ones
P0022 "A" Camshaft Position- Timing Over-Retarded Bank 2
P0018 Crankshaft Position_ Camshaft Position Correlation Bank 2 Sensor


Ok, so I have read a bunch of posts relating to the Variable valve timing and Cam Phasers and related. So If you all come back with.... " Do your phasers." I will understand. it sounds like it to me... but im not a mechanic or a Ford Guy, not that I don't love this truck. I went out of my way to pick this truck over Chevy or Dodge which I found cheaper.


I am in a bad way here guys, I really would love some help. I've posted on forums for my motorcycle and had some pretty incredible responses. Even so much as got Free parts that was awesome.
So if any of you guys could take a few min out of your day and give me your OP on what is going on with my truck I'd appreciate it a whole lot.


I owe way too much on this truck to drop in a new motor. I know after reading some of your walkthroughs for the phaser job I believe I can do the work my self. I just would love to know if its worth the cash and time if any one thinks its for not.


Thanks for your time, looking forward to hearing back from all of you.

MHOWELL34

Its not just a do your phasers... it's more of a been there done that lol.

Try this test, Because mine jumped and i was PO345, you don't have that so dont go that far yet.

Unplug both Cam position sensors. Should crank and have errors for both sides.

Now plug in Passenger side (according to your codes, this is the good side), truck should crank fine

Now cut it off, unplug passenger side, plug in driver side, see if the truck will start.

If not you probably have jumped time and the sensor is preventing the cylinders to fire.

Sometimes it could be just a bad sensor tho. It's 23 bucks

Try swapping them around and see if the code follows the sensor

If you get a new sensor and it does not fire on that side... Continue to the worst outcome https://www.f150forum.com/f4/tip-gui...lation-294718/

PS i did my work myself, **** yea its worth it. Check your idle hot pressure if you can, if its below 20 psi, just run 5w 30 afterwards and it wont do that crap for a long time again.

NarkFX4

MHOWELL34


Thanks a ton!!!! I will start doing what you mentioned tonight. The truck has been running a little rough for a couple of months, but I've only had it about 9 now.


When you say unplug the sensor your talking the smaller plug below the crank? or the VCT solenoid harness, which I know is on the top side? sorry for not knowing this... haven't had to dig around on this truck yet.


Thanks so much, giving me hope!! You ever make it out to Idaho, I'll by ya a beer!

MHOWELL34

They are below the Front of valve cover on the block. Aiming at the radiator. 2 plugs very front of engine. Vct is on top of valve cover.

primalurges

Check your oil pressure before you start throwing random parts at it.

MHOWELL34

Did you get it figured out?

NarkFX4

haven't messed with it yet. work this week has kicked my butt so i will try it out this weekend.

NarkFX4

OK, a little good news. I'm pretty sure that the driver side can pos sensor is bad. I did what you instructed, and it ran betterer with both sensors unplugged & with only the passenger side plugged in. It ran quite bad if only the driver side sensor was plugged in. Unless I'm missing something that points to a bad sensor?
I didn't swap the sensors to see if I got the same symptoms but in reverse. I don't want to cause any unnecessary harm. Would I be at all correct in assuming that with both sensors unplugged that it out as the ECM into a safe or limp mode? Because when the truck was running with both sensors unplugged, the CEL was just on solid but when the driver side one was plugged in the CEL was blinking? Just wondering.

Let me know your thoughts.
Thanks again!

NarkFX4

Well, ignore the previous post. I got a little ahead of my self. I ran to the autoparts store and picked up the only cam position sensor they had, installed it, bought a OBD2 reader as well, Cleared the codes and..... it started to run like again!! So im guessing that maybe oil pressure was not quite up and or the engine temp. But either way after it ran for about 2 minutes, its started to throw a CEL and then very rough idle. i'll pull the codes in the morning, but they are not much different then the original ones.