Nosajb15af

Lol I think he was holding out for a better answer than to tear off the front of his engine.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

That job is in the very near future...

Nosajb15af

Those days are the worst...you just finish rebuilding an engine... And you see a leftover key. Then the debate begins... That bolt should hold the cam timed... Right??

Michael Shook

Ok.. do is it off by a couple teeth or what. . The engine will run so no bent valves.

screamineagle

Tear it down and find out. It sucks, but it's the only way.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

First you said no fire on the whole bank... how would it run this way...then you said it was back firing...still not running.. I'm confused ...

Michael Shook

Because it's running on the 4 cylinders on the other bank. With the coil plugs pulled on the bad side it runs the same jyst rough. Plug em in no change. Pulled 2 spark plugs and grounded to motor.. thrres spark... even if it was off a couple teeth it would run at idle or if the oil solenoids weren't working it would run at idle. I don't get it.

Nosajb15af

I don't see it running at all on one bank. I've seen rough as can be idles to the point of stalling with 2 cylinders down.... Let alone 4. Your searching to reasons why not to pull the front engine cover and redo timing. Fact is your engine "runs" rough as can be with backfires... You NEED to retime.

Michael Shook

Ok so I finally got this truck h ome. I started by removing bank one valve cover. I did the cam phaser timing ck. I put the timing mark at 1 o'clock. No 5 intake cam lobes were pointing to far down. I adjusted the cam.. now it actually runs with no codes but it's backfiring.. any thoughts?

redfishtd

I have same year and engine . Did my timing job and changed all . I lifted cams as part of the job .
I was very careful to fully understand how this timing worked . I triple checked and finally rotated engine 720 degrees to make sure no valve to piston contact .
If I ended up in your trouble I would start from scratch by pulling timing cover .
I would be very afraid of bending a valve .
I would guess you miss read a step . Pull the chains and cams and start over .
As much as I would hate dropping power steering stuff again I would do it .
Rely on your timing dot on crank gear being at 6 oclock no1 at tdc passenger side front . Cams pointed as per book on no1 and no 5 drivers side front . If they are close the chain markings will bring them right on . Make sure chain stays tight on non tensioner side when installing .
Make sure your cam phasor markings ended up correct-- passenger side should be R -- drivers side L . Don't get confused with keyway on crank versus timing dot position . Remember right on engine is passenger side, easy to get screwed up when the mechanics viewpoint right is driver .
If you don't have the timing factory view of the cam on no.1 and no 5 position let me know and I will post it .

review timing sticky .
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/final-r...-sound-141266/
http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/14...n-related.html
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/timing-...hasers-253334/