alsatropine

iTrader: (2)

Sorry guys, haven't been on since May (crazy divorce) but to answer you question about specs, I just tightened them up good and snug and haven't had any problems. Glad this write up worked out for ya.. oh and you can loosen the bar bushings on the rail to allow the end link bushings to come out.

Prof

AH - ok, I see, because of the 2 piece design of the sway bar bushings, you could just loosen the sway bar nuts, and let it hang down and remove and replace the bushings without removing the bar completely?

On the end links, Alsatropine mentioned that you can do this without lifting up the truck - are those endlinks under a lot or pressure that way, in other words, will I need to pound anything in or out to get them removed?

Did you get the red or graphite impregnated black bushings from energy suspension? Ooops, nevermind looked at the photos again, answered my own question.

I guess why I asked the torque specs is because I don't don;t want to over compress the endlink rubber boots - is that even possible? Shoot, my old ones might be loose - when I did shocks I released them, and I don;t think I tightened them up all the way, for fear of overtightening that rubber ball!

Prof

Sorry to hear about the divorce A, that sucks. Keep your head up, and your kids priority and you will be better.

alsatropine

iTrader: (2)

Hey Prof, no the end link bushings are not under a lot of pressure. The nuts that hold them.Will bottom out before they really get into the bushing. Just tighten them up real good and you'll be fine. If you loosen the brackets for the sway bar bushings just enough to where they don't fall off, then you should be able to move the sway bar up and down enough to remove and reinstall the end link. You might have to knock them out with a mallet especially if they are own. But there is no pressure from the truck at all.

Prof

Wolf,

Did you buy the Moog end links? The pics on Amazon just have the one rubber end but not the dual rubber bits at the top of the link. Does the Moog come with those upper rubber bits that sandwich the end of the swaybar!

Moog #K80337

Thanks...

wolfy53

The endlinks were Moog Moog-K80337. They were about 50 bucks for the pair. I got them off of http://www.aftermarketsuspensionparts.com/ I did that because they were the cheapest for what I was buying. I had other items I purchased for my lil 93 mazda car. And with that order I got free shipping which was the cheapest option for all the parts I ordered.

They came as a complete kit, bolt on!

Redbusa06

I had to use crescent wrench for the top nut on my 08FX4..... what a pain! Does anyone know what size the top nut is on an 08? The passenger side may need cut off cuz it seems froze up. And the nut is pretty stripped.

Where can I get a replacement nut?

adanvjr

Good morning folks,

A year ago, I just replaced the top bushings on the links.
However, now the bottom bushing are worn out, so I'm going to replace the entire links.

The links on my truck are straight like wolfy53's.
They're not angled like the OPs.

Do I need to jack up my truck and remove the wheels?
Or is that just so you can work comfortably on them?


I can access the links without any problem.

I've read around that you should install the new links without the truck jacked up. It should be on the ground. Not sure why.


I've sprayed down the links to help loosen them.
Since I've never replaced the links before, I'll be letting it soak in for several hours and repeat it.

In the event that fails and they're stuck, what can I do?

adanvjr

Well, I answered my own questions
I guess jacking up the truck is for easier access.

Before I started on anything. I sprayed down WD40 on them at work and let it seep in for hours. It paid off and every nut came out easily without the need of a breaker bar.

The Bolt-end or whatever at the bottom of the old Ford factory link is of 8mm size, while the nut itself is of 18mm size. It came off easily by holding the nut with a wrench and ratcheting the 8mm bolt-end off. (Since it was opposite, the bold-end had to be turned clockwise to remove)

The hard part was having to take out the links after all nuts been removed. I got underneath and pushed the end of the sway bar up as much as I can and guided the old links out and new links in. Prybars couldn't be used, as I had no room for leverage.

I always take my time when it comes to repairs.
It took me about an hour for both of them.


Test drove it by driving straight on speed bumps and turning over speed bumps. Suspension is much quieter (no clunking) and truck handles tighter on turns.


Thanks for the write up folks.

jbot

I just ordered new sway bar end links and bushings. The pictures are great and will surely make my time much easier. Thought I would do this since I am going to be replacing my rotors and struts in one swoop.