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Old 08-24-2014, 05:07 PM   #1
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Default Removing valve covers, cant move the AC line help

OK so I finally started working on the job of replacing my lash adjusters, followers, phasers and timing components. The left valve cover came off, no real issues there, the right side, I got the back bolt off with no real issues but I cannot get to the bottom rear valve cover bolts because of the AC lines. I took off the 2 nuts that hold the ac canister and have kinda pried the plastic bracket over but cant get it to move much at all. Can someone that has done this project chime in and give me a idea of what I have to do to get it over so that I can get to the bolts and be able to remove the valve cover? Also, I cant seem to find the transmission dip stick bolt to be able to move that as well. Can someone help me out?
Thank you for any assistance
Tom
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Old 08-24-2014, 05:09 PM   #2
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Sorry, forgot to mention, truck is a 2004 F150 5.4L 4WD
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Old 08-24-2014, 06:44 PM   #3
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I had to unfasten my AC line at the condenser to get it out of the way. The tranny dipstick tube fastener is at the bottom back corner. It has an 18mm head (same as the one on the front left side that holds the power steering bracket). If you remove the fender liner the bolt is easier to access, along with some of the valve cover bolts...
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Old 08-24-2014, 07:38 PM   #4
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I second removing the inner fender well. It's really not that bad to remove. It might even be quicker to take it out and put it back in than wrestling with awkward angles getting to various nuts and bolts.
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:26 PM   #5
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Thanks all, after fighting with the bolts, I did end up removing the inner fender and got the remaining bolts out of the valve cover. At the same time, I found the 18mm bolt, but have yet to get that off. Tried to maneuver the cover out without disconnecting the ac line but no good, guess I will be doing that tomorrow. If I remove the one line going to the AC condenser, is that the only one that I will have to disconnect? Will that also allow the condenser to move some more? I appreciate the quick follow up, I will start posting pics soon.
Thanks
Tom
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Old 08-24-2014, 08:59 PM   #6
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I got lucky on mine and was able to remove the valve cover without moving the AC lines. It took a serious amount of swear words to encourage it off though.
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:12 PM   #7
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You may not have to remove the ac lines. I didn't, but I don't necessarily recommend the way I got the cover off.
I removed the 2 nuts at the canister like you've already done, removed the stud on the timing cover that has a clip holding the lines, and removed the VCT solenoid. That gave me enough wiggle in the lines to get the cover off. It took a long time working the cover in different angles and positions, and at some points I had to pull up on the lines. I also had to replace the valve cover gasket because it got messed up. When I put it back on, I placed the new gasket on the head, then tucked it out of harms way as much as possible, and worked the cover back in place.
Like I said, I don't recommend that way, but it is possible. I didn't want to release the freon in my garage, and definitely wasn't going to tow it somewhere to discharge the system. Just remember to be careful with the lines.
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:30 PM   #8
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I have already disconnected the bracket at the front of the timing cover that holds the lines and the VCTs are out as well, I'm gonna try to wiggle it out again in the morning, hopefully it will come out, usually if something gives me hell, I take a break and then it works out, if not, see if someone has an ac discharge kit. Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it.
Tom
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:43 PM   #9
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OK, long day running back an forth to Harbor Freight. Discharged and disconnected the AC line, got the valve cover off. Spent seems like 3 hours getting the power steering pump off because I could not get the pulley off. I have 2 different types of power steering pulley pullers and neither would budge the pulley and I have experience taking those off and never had an issue. Pump is off so that's good. Had to buy a electric impact gun to get the harmonic balancer bolt loose, got it but haven't tried pulling the pulley off yet, took the 4 bolts out of the water pump pulley and the pulley wont come off, what gives, is there something special, do I need a puller for this as well? And last thing, went to set the harmonic balancer at 12 oclock position and I do not see a cut mark that should be at the 1 oclock position, I have turned it completely around and not seen it, any ideas? Thanks for all responses.
Tom
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:04 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vintageman View Post
OK, long day running back an forth to Harbor Freight. Discharged and disconnected the AC line, got the valve cover off. Spent seems like 3 hours getting the power steering pump off because I could not get the pulley off. I have 2 different types of power steering pulley pullers and neither would budge the pulley and I have experience taking those off and never had an issue. Pump is off so that's good. Had to buy a electric impact gun to get the harmonic balancer bolt loose, got it but haven't tried pulling the pulley off yet, took the 4 bolts out of the water pump pulley and the pulley wont come off, what gives, is there something special, do I need a puller for this as well? And last thing, went to set the harmonic balancer at 12 oclock position and I do not see a cut mark that should be at the 1 oclock position, I have turned it completely around and not seen it, any ideas? Thanks for all responses.
Tom
Give the water pump pulley some taps(top, bottom, side, side, etc). It may be stubborn, but it will come off. Don't worry to much about the harmonic balancer. Once it's off, put the bolt back on and use the key instead. As long as all 3 of your timing chain marks are set correctly when you put it back together, you'll be fine.
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Old 08-25-2014, 08:04 PM
 
 
 
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