Keith554

Is it true that you have to remove the motor to remove the passenger side cylinder head on an 04 f150 5.4?
I have a misfire at idle only cylinder #1 (no smoke) and I have a feeling I have a burnt or sticking valve. Might buy a leak down kit and look into this deeper.
Any ideas on this issue? runs great once you apply throttle but idles rough and live data shows #1 cylinder dropping out at idle.
Thanks for any help.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

I guess you have troubleshot it and it’s not an injector/COP or plug issue or the wire’s going to them ?

Keith554

So far I have installed new OEM replacement plugs, swapped cylinder #1 COP and injector with cylinder #2 and the problem still remained on cylinder #1.
Just replaced all the timing guides, tensioners and such because when I removed the valve cover to look for a broken valve spring (springs seem good) I noticed a cracked chain guide.
Truck sounds pretty quiet with only a very faint tap and I have not kicked any Check Engine Lights so I don't think its the cam phasers.
Between most of my travels cylinder #1 only misses 80 to 250 times during the whole trip and only happens at idle and happens mostly when the motor is cold.
This truck has broke my heart haha its mint and always taken care of and now this for no reason at 130k.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

Humm... I would suggest a compression check on bank 1 to see if something is going on.

Tazzfx

I would throw some sea foam into the brake booster vacuum hose as well as the gas tank to see if you can "burn" or eliminate the carbon that may be causing a sticky valve? Just a thought.

Just yesterday I was speaking to an insurance adjuster about my truck and he CLAIMS that you can remove the head without removing the engine. Take that for what it is worth... Good luck!!

Keith554

Gator ford used a BG top end cleaner kit on the motor to clean valves and they said more then likely it was a broken valve spring and that's why I checked there first. But yeah I am going to pick up a leak down test kit when I have time.
I'm hoping we have someone here with real experience with pulling (or tried) these heads will chime in because I have a feeling that will need to be done and I am ok with that I just don't want to pull the motor for a simple head job.
Thanks for all yall guys time. I'm new here because this was once a solid truck bahaha.

techrep

iTrader: (1)

I can tell you one thing for sure...your going to have to at least remove the passenger side motor mount and jack the engine on that side just to get to the exhaust manifold off the head. I would suggest a replacement manifold and a new stud and nut kit too.

Tazzfx

I disagree with removing the motor mount part or jacking up the motor. I removed the wheel well liner and did pretty good. Definitely a new manifold and stud/nut kit..

techrep

iTrader: (1)

2WD or 4WD ?

Dirttracker18

You can pull the head without taking the engine out. Not fun but it can be done.

I recently saw a member on here mention that it is easier if you leave the rear most bolt in the head (loose but not removed) and pull the head with the bolt in it. Wish I could give credit but I dont remember where I saw it or who said it.

Likely easier to just unbolt the exhaust manifold at the flange and remove the head with the manifold still on. Then you can work on a bench to take it off.