Team Chepsk8

I'd like to add a remote start to my 2007, and am looking for the easiest system to add. I almost prefer a separate key fob if possible. Plug and play preferred.


Looking for your experiences and recommendations.

ReaperHWK

I just installed a Code Alarm Remote start. I really like it, and installed it myself so if you have questions I can probably help. You also need to buy a PATS bypass for it to work.

Also 2500 ft range, which is great if your at work at far from the car. The RS, bypass, relays I think I spent $200 total(plus of course hours and hours of labor). I would say it would take 8 hours to do an install(I could probably do it in 4 since I know where the wires are)

http://www.voxxelectronics.com/code-...rt/?sku=CA5154


Only thing about "plug and play" is that since we have older trucks, you can't wire into the CAN bus to do a lot of things you can on the newer trucks. This means every kit you buy, you need to splice wires in for locks, illumination, horn, door triggers, etc. So really there is no "plug and play", even if you buy a Ford OEM system you need to start splicing wires.


New trucks do all this over the CAN bus, and you plug in one connector and your done, we're not so lucky.

jshillin

iTrader: (1)

I installed an Avital in my Ranger a few years ago and it worked great. It was an easy install because I didn't need a bypass though. I want to put one in my F-150, but I'll most likely pay someone to do it. I see Best Buy runs deals for then installed for $189 pretty frequently for decent one way starters. I'm not super keen on them installing it, but I know many people that had it done at the local Best Buy with no problems.

ReaperHWK

I wouldn't have a problem having a place install it; I just did it myself because I had some time on my hands. I also added extra features (using relays) such as turning on the headlights from the FOB, turning on the heated mirrors with the FOB, and priority door unlock. This would all be above and beyond a normal "best buy" install.

homer

For the most part, so many of them are the same for what you're looking for. As mentioned earlier, you'll need a PATS module to emulate a key unless you plan to hide a key in the dash (I don't recommend it).


When you wire the remote start bypass, depending on the PATS bypass module, don't wire it permanent. The older ones take +12V and basically when you wire it constant it overrides your anti-theft. It just leaves a constant transmit on. Plus, I've had an issue with a Ford Escape where the computer lost the code for some reason of the bypass and wouldn't allow the person to start the vehicle either by remote or key (the bypass overpowered the key's signal). If possible, use the remote starts Output while running line for this purpose.


As far as what brand you'd like to go with, it's really personal preference. I prefer Compustar but I own all of the programmers and such. If down the road (this is rare) you decide you want a newer remote or longer range remote, you buy the antenna kit including the antenna and remote. It's very modular... again, I don't know many people who switch after they've installed but if you've put in a one-way and want to switch to two-way later, you don't need to replace everything, just the antenna kit.


The same goes with iPhone/Android start... depending on the module you purchase, if you decide to add that in the future it's either very easy (Compustar you basically just plug it in - I believe Viper is the same), or you have to wire it. I'm happy with Drone Mobile as it ties into my alarm, temperature, etc. I only bought this because I ride public transit coming home and I want my vehicle warm. I also unplug it and switch it between vehicles from time-to-time (I have a winter beater).


The relays is typically very easy, depending on the delay I use a quenching diode (some have them built-in). I've never had an issue with a compustar but I do it to be safe to ensure no high voltage returns back. Be careful on what you tie-into, sometimes you'll join a circuit and cause the BCM to think something's occurred. For example, I have my Ford Fusion set to kill the auto-headlights during remote start operation using a dual-pole relay (the way the switch is wired) and if I don't add an additional diode, it actually disables my accessory delay (really odd). It joins a circuit somewhere and tricks the BCM for some reason, a diode corrects this. Make sure the unit you purchase actually meets what you're after, otherwise you're stuck!


I've done heated seats, I added AUX (compustar) for my dome light to come on for 2 minutes if I'm loading the quad... It's limitless but be prepared to spend a lot of time LOL. The Compustar has a dome-light output wire which I used to trigger the domelight. Factory does this but I don't think there was a disarm wire on these trucks so we can't use the factory option unlike my other vehicles. I did a 2001 Dodge Ram 3500 Diesel recently and it was interesting with the heated seats... the BCM would NOT allow us to turn them on unless the truck was running. This is likely due to load but it was affecting testing initially. The compustar triggers the "defrost" after remote start. You can also trigger the defrost output to occur everytime the vehicle is started, OR depending on temperatures (probe is only included with certain antenna kits).

I also always recommend a tach wire ... many units have a "smart" detect such as Alternator Sensing and such. The issue I've seen is that during cold (we hit -30C here), the voltage is so low that the unit doesn't think the vehicle is running. So it starts it, shuts it off, repeats 2 more times ... then errors out. I always prefer the tach wire if possible so that the unit knows the vehicle is running. The other issue I've heard about is overrunning the starter... not using the tach wire is a bit of a guessing game for the unit. I know one person who went through 3 starters so I told him to remote start it and listen to it. Sure enough, he could hear the overrun occurring (how often is one next to their vehicle when they remote start lol).


Sorry, that's a lot of information. I guess the important thing is, what range do you want? Any additional features? I find Auto-start a bit of a pain to program options. Compustar you can program options through the remote but it's nicer to have the programmer. Viper has a BitWriter.


If you want to get fancy with relays, Compustar and Viper allow you to override unused wires for different features (Programmable Input Wires - PIC and Programmable Output Wires - POC). You *do* need the programmer to do this though. I had programmed one POC for my AUX 1 then set it to 120 seconds which required the programmer. So keep that in mind.


I hope this doesn't confuse you but hopefully provides you some information. As for wiring it on these trucks, if you can solder and wire, it's not difficult. I always hate pulling a tach wire though.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

I am all for working on your own vehicle, but a local guy to me who has a actual storefront charges $250 to install a Compustar system. I already bought a gift certificate for my wives 07 Expedition. He did one on my sons 96 Ranger for $150 installed (no PATS, no bypass systems). I will leave this to the pro's with the lifetime warranty.

homer

I'd really check those shops though ... I've seen many without tach wires (chew up starters), anti-theft bypassed (easy to steal), and especially lack of soldering (T-Taps). Those units don't fail very often, when they do it's typically poor wiring or install. I've seen joints melt due to poor connections from lack of soldering! I've just worked on one where they swore the new dodge had no choice but to force the headlamps on but what actually occurred was the installer wired to the headlamp wire not the park lamp wires.

Now most shops that charge $250 are taking the time to do the install. The cheaper shops, they're goal is, get the vehicle in, and get it out. They pay their installers minimum wage and the goal is profit. A properly installed and soldered system takes time to do.

These installers don't need any qualifications to do this job......... So don't necessarily think they're pros.... But if you've used a shop, never had any issues, and trust them, then keep using them (they're good). These things aren't a science to install. I've written before, a majority of vehicle fires are caused by improperly installed aftermarket accessories (lack of fuses, high resistance, etc).


I know a guy who worked for a pro shop ... he was fresh out of highschool, and they charged $250. He did a good job (he takes pride in his work) but he hated it and they paid him nothing. Myself, I do a significant amount of electronics work that I've done more than just install a remote start unit, so it doesn't intimidate me by any means.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

I agree, but my guy has been there 15 years and 3 people I know have used him and recommended me to him. One man operation.

homer

That's a guy I'd keep using haha. It's honestly hard to come by though, at least up here.

Summers22

iTrader: (2)

He did window tint for me as well. Top-notch work, let me hang out in his work area and even asked me to help position 5 of his 100 watt bulbs on a board that he uses to get his tint as perfect as possible. I will keep using him, you bet!