Jormungand2013

I have a 2005 F150 ExCab 5.4 3v 4wd with about 148k miles. Truck drives great but with anything 7 years old it is starting to show signs of wear. Losing about .5 quart every 3000 miles. Losing about the same in transmission fluid but I cant place the drip. Doesnt matter, I plan on rebuilding the drivetrain and I will explain why. I have access to a Ford mechanic via a dealership in my town in case I get in a bind.

I plan on commuting about 1h back and forth for law school and it will be mostly highway miles at around 70 mph.

The reason I am rebuilding is I don't see the need in buying a new truck and placing all of those miles on it due to depreciation values.

This is what I plan in a list format

• Complete rebuild of the engine. I know off hand that the stroke is 4.1xx so stroking it is out. I am considering going a .020 overbore with new rings. (assuming the block can handle it) If not, I will just buy a shortblock from modmaxracing.

My issues lie with the upper end. Cams, intake, throttle body etc.

• I want a noticeable lope in the cam. I am looking at the compcams stage one NSR up to 4700 rpm.

• What size Throttle body? I think it comes stock with 80mm, could I fit a 90mm from a mustang?

• Intake manifold, replace it with the dorman from summit?

• MAF, how large?

• Heads, I would like to salvage the heads if possible. I would clean them out, get a port and polish done. Upgrade the springs, valves, retainers.

• Now, do I lock the cam phasers?
• What spark plugs do I use? 12mm or 16mm?

I plan on leveling out the front end of the truck. I will run 33 x 12.5 17s Now, do I get lower gears? I want the truck to cruise below 2k rpm at 75 mph as this is what it does currently with a CAI and cat delete.

I know I run the risk of having to get a custom configuration file to run the engine efficiently. I would prefer to just to keep a plug and play style tuning.

I also would aim to target the flywheel HP at 375hp or higher.

For the transmission, I would like to get a 2500 ish stall converter and completely rebuild the tranny using kevlar bands. I would also add headers, full synthetic lubricants and balanced drive shafts. Then I would start on cosmetics, halo projection lights, grille guard etc.

Rate, review please.


Thank you.

FordSilly

Damn... Well first off what's your budget?


And to the lockouts yes I know that most cams with high lobe on mustangs are required to lockout the VCT,

IMO if your are going to punch it out go big or don't do it at all. Only 20 thou, wouldn't add much of anything...

You will see most of your gains off of a
(Bang for buck)
Tune
Gears (but sounds like you want it to cruise at low rpms so that's out)
Headers
Cams

And least off the port and polish and the twenty over.

IMHO don't rebuild it, if it runs and drives okay, let her buck,

Would be a good idea to find the tranny leak.

Make it and enjoyable driver by adding things like

Stereo
Interior accessories
Headlights
Tune
Minor things

But that's just me man,

If you do decide to follow through with your plans be sure to keep us updated and take tons of pictures!!

Good luck brother

Jormungand2013

I guess budget including shop fees would be about 6500.

In hindsight, unless the cylinder walls are scored I will probably go back stock bore which is 90.2 mm if I recall the tech sheets correctly.

I just want some aftermarket upgrades that will allow me peace of mind of keeping the truck and making sure it will travel 120 mile round trip a day.

I am not looking to make the truck an offroad animal. I already have 79 ford that has close to 600 and its just for play

scobar

iTrader: (4)

Well, you make no mention of gears...you are going to drop a cam in and the power band will go up. What are your goals? i wouldn't overbore, but thats just me.

No reason to lock the cams tbh unless you are going with cams that need it.

I would keep the stock dual runner intake.

Wheel size? Budget?

Jormungand2013

• I mentioned my budget of an estimated 6500.
• I planned on using 33x12.50 on 17s, not opposed of going larger but do not feel the need to going 18s+ without good reason. Aesthetics do not count for me. The truck will be for 90% highway 10% offroad/towing less than 1000 pounds and probably never see any mud outside of my parents gravel road.
• With the changes I planned on making, I discussed some ideas. Since my truck stock runs at 75mph @ 2k rpm I would like to get that 250-300 rpm lower because I will be traveling approx. 60 miles highway 1 way to law school. I will commute 3-4 days a week which will be an estimated 360-480 miles a week.
• I want an estimated 375hp at the flywheel.
• I mentioned in my second post, that I would only bore if the cylinder walls were scored. If they are scored past .020 I will buy a complete long block.
• I am not looking for a fast accelerating truck. I have one that can cover 300ft in less than 4.4 seconds.

oracancoj

scobar

iTrader: (4)

So....sell it and get a car? Far less, much better MPG? Performance and MPG isn't going to mix on a truck.

PALMETTO_XLT

In my experience modifying and reliability don't mix we'll especially to the extent that your talking. Doesn't sound like you need a truck why not sell and get a car with better mpg? Buy another truck when you get out of law school.

I would love to see this build and if you do it keep us up to date but I would say that there are better options. Shoot for 6500 you could just buy a car and keep the f150 as well.

Check your transfer case for the missing tranny fluid, I heard the seal between tranny and tcase can leak and put fluid in the tcase

Jormungand2013

Considering I am 6'7 268 pounds, there are 0 cars that fit me properly with ample head room. I would look stupid in a car or a small truck. That is about the only aesthetic requirement I have currently.

I do enjoy hunting and fishing and occasionally tow a small boat. I doubt a toyota camry would be able to handle me my hunting gear and a 150pound plus field dressed deer in the back end of the trunk down near my hunting camp.

Now with my personal finances being discussed.

This was the first thing I bought after coming home from Afghanistan so I am partial to the truck. I paid for it in cash so no monthly note. I will not get rid of it just because 'a car would be easier'. I doubt 15000 (6500 budget) and 9000 trade in value would get me anything worthy that is paid in full. I do not want a note, and refuse to have one. I have 0 debt, my house, truck, boat and all additional toys are paid in full. I have a credit card that I use for Gas purchases and major expenses but I pay that in full every month.

My truck pushes about 17-19 highway mpg as sits currently. If its highway miles, I get 490-530 miles to a tank if I keep it 65 or 70 mph. City driving, I get maybe 370 out of it. I have taken extreme care with the maintenance with the vehicle. Always synthetic 5w-20, and about 2 years ago swapped to royal purple for the engine, transmission, transfer and both differentials. I always have used Fram oil Filters and used their Air filters until I put the CAI. I clean the K&N every oil change. I honestly dont think I have ever pushed the throttle to 5500 rpm in the 8 years I have owned the truck.

Does anyone have any actual answers to the following questions?

• Will a Throttle body from a 5.4 3v mustang work (without modification) on the truck? I plan on using a 1 inch throttle body spacer.
• Would I be required to upgrade the Mass airflow sensor?
• Would I be required to upgrade injectors? If so,(considering the other proposed engine modifications) how much higher?
• I know if I change the heads, I should get the larger 16mm one piece plugs from Ford SVT. Would you get the MSD coilpaks?
• I am still undecided to lock cam phasers, Jeg's has a kit to do so. However, I am under the impression that Ford has revised the Phasers a 3rd time.
• Should I send off the entire ECM for reprogramming or buy a programmer and have a quality developer create a custom configuration or "tune" for the vehicle?

scobar

iTrader: (4)

There is zero need to change your TB. You are not boosted. The spacer is a waste of money, ditch it.
Your MAF is fine, you are not pushing 12psi so you have room.
Your injectors are fine for NA. Until you need to, don't touch them.
If you want to swap heads, sure, there are non-svt from 08+ MY that will work. These have the new style plugs. Again, you're not FI so no reason to port the heads.
Why would you lock the cams? Unless you ahve a cam that needs to be locked, or specific power goals that require it, no need.
No need to send ECM out, get an SCT handheld or whatever your tuner uses and have at it. Ideally, dyno tune would be the way to go.

I think you need to spend a lot more time determining your goals and doing more homework TBH.