Rear Shackles and rear leafs questions.
10-12-2014, 12:34 PM
#12
I can tell just by looking at the driveshaft that if you removed that spacer your vibration would be gone. You may need to re index the driveshaft 90 or 180 degrees and grind off the key on the splines to get a smooth range of motion on the u joints.. You will want to loosen up the u bolts and let them settle in a new location after you get that driveshaft hooked onto the diff WITHOUT that spacer..
If pro comp specs that driveshaft spacer for a 6" lift than it's just a bandaid for a bad design... Every other kit I've seen at 6 inches re indexed the driveshaft at the diff.
You can leave your blocks but it's dangerous. Buy a one piece 3.5" or 4" block and see if you can find it with a degree of pitch.. Otherwise you might still need to shim that dangerous setup you already got.
Once that driveshaft spacer is out you will probably even notice more lift since the spring perches will be facing ^up^ more than they are now.
If pro comp specs that driveshaft spacer for a 6" lift than it's just a bandaid for a bad design... Every other kit I've seen at 6 inches re indexed the driveshaft at the diff.
You can leave your blocks but it's dangerous. Buy a one piece 3.5" or 4" block and see if you can find it with a degree of pitch.. Otherwise you might still need to shim that dangerous setup you already got.
Once that driveshaft spacer is out you will probably even notice more lift since the spring perches will be facing ^up^ more than they are now.
Last edited by Especial86; 10-12-2014 at 12:38 PM.
10-12-2014, 12:35 PM
#13
Senior Member
Since I raised my truck and put the toyos, I have no shake what so ever. Do you always use the same place to have your tires balanced, if so try a different method because you never know if their machine is true.
10-12-2014, 03:41 PM
#15
http://www.roughcountry.com/install/92157600.pdf
http://4x4media.info/instructions/zon/F2602.pdf
The re indexing may only be required if you have vibrations after the spacer removal.. Just remove the spacer for now, and reset the bolts on the spring perches once you get that axle reconnected to the drive shaft.
Both of these install instructions I linked show "re clocking" for the front driveshaft. If you have any vibes in the rear driveshaft after the spacer delete the same trick applies.. But I would be willing to bet deleting the spacer will be enough of a fix..
Any other vibes could be from a damaged u joint due to your previous drive line angles.
Just use good common sense from this point out. If non of this works for you than consider ditching the pro comp lift kit. Pro comp has low quality designs and manufacturing from my own lifting experiences with them in the past.
.IOW... They are junk....
This is just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt.
I would also strongly advise you check every component in that lift kit that has altered the factory suspension and make sure they are installed correctly. Tighten every bolt, and make sure any cuts to the front crossmember brackets are correct.. Whoever thought it was a good idea to sell you that truck with stacked lift blocks was already out to lunch.. So I would make sure their "engineering" decisions did not end up anywhere else on the truck... At this point it's for your own safety that I advise this.
http://4x4media.info/instructions/zon/F2602.pdf
The re indexing may only be required if you have vibrations after the spacer removal.. Just remove the spacer for now, and reset the bolts on the spring perches once you get that axle reconnected to the drive shaft.
Both of these install instructions I linked show "re clocking" for the front driveshaft. If you have any vibes in the rear driveshaft after the spacer delete the same trick applies.. But I would be willing to bet deleting the spacer will be enough of a fix..
Any other vibes could be from a damaged u joint due to your previous drive line angles.
Just use good common sense from this point out. If non of this works for you than consider ditching the pro comp lift kit. Pro comp has low quality designs and manufacturing from my own lifting experiences with them in the past.
.IOW... They are junk....
This is just my opinion, so take it with a grain of salt.
I would also strongly advise you check every component in that lift kit that has altered the factory suspension and make sure they are installed correctly. Tighten every bolt, and make sure any cuts to the front crossmember brackets are correct.. Whoever thought it was a good idea to sell you that truck with stacked lift blocks was already out to lunch.. So I would make sure their "engineering" decisions did not end up anywhere else on the truck... At this point it's for your own safety that I advise this.
Last edited by Especial86; 10-12-2014 at 04:02 PM.
10-13-2014, 11:45 AM
#16
So after switching the shackles around and removing driveshaft spacer, the angle looks slightly better. However now that I removed the spacer my driveshaft is sticking out way to far (see picture). On my driveshaft the part number is 5L34-4602-ka. I can't seem to find any information on if that is even the right drive shaft. I tried some OEM parts sites including Tasca. So maybe mine is the wrong one and its too short?
10-13-2014, 12:07 PM
#17
Take a pic of the side of the truck and make sure the rear wheels are centered in the rear wheel arches..
Did you loosen up the u bolts and let the axle re center itself when you reconnected the drive shaft?
That driveshaft does look like its sticking out a tad too much, but you should see a little "shiny" metal on the slip yoke at the transfer case..
I checked and there is in fact no driveshaft spacer included in the pro comp 6" lift kit.. So yes its possible you have the wrong "too short" driveshaft installed..
It looks like the pinion angle is better but not completely corrected yet.. The axle looks like it could still rotate up at the pinion some more to straighten out that driveline connection. This rotation should help "push" the driveshaft into the transfer case some more than it is now..
You may need to pull the blocks and see if there is a taper to one if them. If you don't see a taper than you will likely need done shims... M
Did you loosen up the u bolts and let the axle re center itself when you reconnected the drive shaft?
That driveshaft does look like its sticking out a tad too much, but you should see a little "shiny" metal on the slip yoke at the transfer case..
I checked and there is in fact no driveshaft spacer included in the pro comp 6" lift kit.. So yes its possible you have the wrong "too short" driveshaft installed..
It looks like the pinion angle is better but not completely corrected yet.. The axle looks like it could still rotate up at the pinion some more to straighten out that driveline connection. This rotation should help "push" the driveshaft into the transfer case some more than it is now..
You may need to pull the blocks and see if there is a taper to one if them. If you don't see a taper than you will likely need done shims... M
Last edited by Especial86; 10-13-2014 at 03:05 PM.
10-13-2014, 02:15 PM
#18
Yup my truck is a supercrew and I did leave the bolts loose when I dropped it back down. I will check to make sure the wheel is centered in wheel well when I get back home today.
10-13-2014, 05:48 PM
#20
So finally got home to check the truck. My axle is sitting back about a 1in or 1 1/4in. Looking at the side the wheel is almost inline with the bottom of the rear fender flare. Anyone know why my axle would be sitting back so far because I am guessing that is the main problem now. I am at a loss at what to do now. When I put the truck back down the u bolts were hand tight and all the other leaf spring bolts are loose, so I do not know how to make the axle move forward some. And not sure if this still matters but my driveshaft is 48in from ujoint to ujoint.