Rear end options
#1
Rear end options
Hey guys, so I'm new here but just had a few questions that I can't seem to find an answer to. I have 3.55 open rear end right now, would it be easier to just swap a whole axle out of a junkyard fx4 or better rear or look into upgrading with aftermark parts? I eventually will be running 35's so I figure I need 3.73(is that the next ford rear?) or higher to be comfortable on the road and off it. Anybody else done a full axle swap before or do most people just stick to upgrading the pumpkin with aftermarket stuff?
#2
Mark
iTrader: (1)
2WD I take it... and your just doing the rear ?
#4
You did a smart thing posting before buying.
With 4x4 you MUST change both the front and rear gear ratio at the same time or the transfer case will suffer total destruction. If you weren't planning on spending at least $2000 on regearing you should reconsider, because in your situation I would change the rear gears, which is about $300 in parts, front diff, $300 in parts and also the rear carrier to make it limited slip, to give you a whole lot better traction in 2WD, which will run about another $300. If you can do this yourself, you'll be in around a grand including fluid, but if you can't you can count on $1000 in labor to do it all.
If you don't do much highway driving at all I'd recommend getting 4.10s, to give you some pep at the lower speeds, but you might not like the higher RPMS at highway speeds, that'll be something you'll have to decide.
With 4x4 you MUST change both the front and rear gear ratio at the same time or the transfer case will suffer total destruction. If you weren't planning on spending at least $2000 on regearing you should reconsider, because in your situation I would change the rear gears, which is about $300 in parts, front diff, $300 in parts and also the rear carrier to make it limited slip, to give you a whole lot better traction in 2WD, which will run about another $300. If you can do this yourself, you'll be in around a grand including fluid, but if you can't you can count on $1000 in labor to do it all.
If you don't do much highway driving at all I'd recommend getting 4.10s, to give you some pep at the lower speeds, but you might not like the higher RPMS at highway speeds, that'll be something you'll have to decide.
#5
You did a smart thing posting before buying.
With 4x4 you MUST change both the front and rear gear ratio at the same time or the transfer case will suffer total destruction. If you weren't planning on spending at least $2000 on regearing you should reconsider, because in your situation I would change the rear gears, which is about $300 in parts, front diff, $300 in parts and also the rear carrier to make it limited slip, to give you a whole lot better traction in 2WD, which will run about another $300. If you can do this yourself, you'll be in around a grand including fluid, but if you can't you can count on $1000 in labor to do it all.
If you don't do much highway driving at all I'd recommend getting 4.10s, to give you some pep at the lower speeds, but you might not like the higher RPMS at highway speeds, that'll be something you'll have to decide.
With 4x4 you MUST change both the front and rear gear ratio at the same time or the transfer case will suffer total destruction. If you weren't planning on spending at least $2000 on regearing you should reconsider, because in your situation I would change the rear gears, which is about $300 in parts, front diff, $300 in parts and also the rear carrier to make it limited slip, to give you a whole lot better traction in 2WD, which will run about another $300. If you can do this yourself, you'll be in around a grand including fluid, but if you can't you can count on $1000 in labor to do it all.
If you don't do much highway driving at all I'd recommend getting 4.10s, to give you some pep at the lower speeds, but you might not like the higher RPMS at highway speeds, that'll be something you'll have to decide.
#6
If you have a 4.6l it's 8.8 in the rear and front, if you have a 5.4 it's 9.75 rear and 8.8 front.
8.8s have bolts in a round shape, and 9.75s are kind of a tear drop shape from left to right, meaning taller on the left than right, and quite a bit larger, but if you don't have an 8.8 to compare it to it's kind of hard to say..
8.8s have bolts in a round shape, and 9.75s are kind of a tear drop shape from left to right, meaning taller on the left than right, and quite a bit larger, but if you don't have an 8.8 to compare it to it's kind of hard to say..