Rear Diff
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Rear Diff
Sorry if this has been brought up before.
Truck 2005 F150 STX 4.6 4x4
Door code for rear says H9, door code for axles read R5
Numbers on rear read 3L55 88
If my research is correct this should be limited slip, I pulled cover there is a spider gear with no teeth on it ,a ford dealer said it was the clutches making noise, am i correct that there are no clutches in this rear?
What else should i check/replace when i dig into spiders?
What would have caused gear to strip?
Hopefully i covered all the info.
Thanks nate
Truck 2005 F150 STX 4.6 4x4
Door code for rear says H9, door code for axles read R5
Numbers on rear read 3L55 88
If my research is correct this should be limited slip, I pulled cover there is a spider gear with no teeth on it ,a ford dealer said it was the clutches making noise, am i correct that there are no clutches in this rear?
What else should i check/replace when i dig into spiders?
What would have caused gear to strip?
Hopefully i covered all the info.
Thanks nate
#2
Senior Member
I'm going to call that a LS diff... You can see (but barely because of your pic angle) the pre-load spring in between the spider gears.
H9 is a 3.55 diff... I believe it's the smaller of the two. I have a B9 in my SCREW but it's rated at a higher capacity.
A clutch pack could be blamed for this problem... Likely the diff could have been serviced and the friction modifier left out. Gear oils with the additive added aren't enough alone. The modifier should still be added in addition to this.
H9 is a 3.55 diff... I believe it's the smaller of the two. I have a B9 in my SCREW but it's rated at a higher capacity.
A clutch pack could be blamed for this problem... Likely the diff could have been serviced and the friction modifier left out. Gear oils with the additive added aren't enough alone. The modifier should still be added in addition to this.
Last edited by nrivera04; 11-01-2015 at 01:39 PM.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
I'm going to call that a LS diff... You can see (but barely because of your pic angle) the pre-load spring in between the spider gears.
H9 is a 3.55 diff... I believe it's the smaller of the two. I have a B9 in my SCREW but it's rated at a higher capacity.
A clutch pack could be blamed for this problem... Likely the diff could have been serviced and the friction modifier left out. Gear oils with the additive added aren't enough alone. The modifier should still be added in addition to this.
H9 is a 3.55 diff... I believe it's the smaller of the two. I have a B9 in my SCREW but it's rated at a higher capacity.
A clutch pack could be blamed for this problem... Likely the diff could have been serviced and the friction modifier left out. Gear oils with the additive added aren't enough alone. The modifier should still be added in addition to this.
Where is the clutch pack located? between the ring gear and abs?
#4
Timber Baron
#5
Member
Thread Starter
Ok so put new clutches,spiders and side gears in ....now i get a squeling noise when turning, i soaked new clutch disk for 2hrs,squeling just break in?
#6
Senior Member
It's hard to say. There's more to rebuilding a diff then putting the parts back in. There's setting proper backlash and preload. If you didn't do this, it could result in squealing and/or premature (as in very premature) diff wear.
Another comment is on the condition of all the bearings and seals in your axle assembly. With as much metal as you had floating around in your lube, I think your bearings and seals are likely suspect. Perhaps a differential expert will step in here, but if I were you, I'd entertain having a shop review your diff and set it up right. It's gonna cost you, but it will be cheaper in the end if you ruin another set of gears. Good luck.
Another comment is on the condition of all the bearings and seals in your axle assembly. With as much metal as you had floating around in your lube, I think your bearings and seals are likely suspect. Perhaps a differential expert will step in here, but if I were you, I'd entertain having a shop review your diff and set it up right. It's gonna cost you, but it will be cheaper in the end if you ruin another set of gears. Good luck.
#7
Senior Member
It's hard to say. There's more to rebuilding a diff then putting the parts back in. There's setting proper backlash and preload. If you didn't do this, it could result in squealing and/or premature (as in very premature) diff wear.
Another comment is on the condition of all the bearings and seals in your axle assembly. With as much metal as you had floating around in your lube, I think your bearings and seals are likely suspect. Perhaps a differential expert will step in here, but if I were you, I'd entertain having a shop review your diff and set it up right. It's gonna cost you, but it will be cheaper in the end if you ruin another set of gears. Good luck.
Another comment is on the condition of all the bearings and seals in your axle assembly. With as much metal as you had floating around in your lube, I think your bearings and seals are likely suspect. Perhaps a differential expert will step in here, but if I were you, I'd entertain having a shop review your diff and set it up right. It's gonna cost you, but it will be cheaper in the end if you ruin another set of gears. Good luck.
X2... It's possible something is too tight in/with the carrier. Sounds like some tolerances/clearances might need to be checked. Things are especially picky these days with measurements. Might find you a local drive line shop to check things out.
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#8
Senior Member
just replacing spider gear and clutch pack doesn't need to readjust the backlash and ring gear setup.
did you put the friction modifier in?
have you change the wheel bearing/seal while you were there with the axle pulled off?
c-clip and everything else reinstalled and torqued down correctly
did you put the friction modifier in?
have you change the wheel bearing/seal while you were there with the axle pulled off?
c-clip and everything else reinstalled and torqued down correctly
#9
Member
Thread Starter
just replacing spider gear and clutch pack doesn't need to readjust the backlash and ring gear setup.
did you put the friction modifier in?
have you change the wheel bearing/seal while you were there with the axle pulled off?
c-clip and everything else reinstalled and torqued down correctly
did you put the friction modifier in?
have you change the wheel bearing/seal while you were there with the axle pulled off?
c-clip and everything else reinstalled and torqued down correctly
Yes bearings and seals were replaced
c-clips are in , everything was installed the way it came out and torqued to the specs in haynes
How ever that noise is not present after 200 miles.
thanks for the help