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Re-gearing for 35's newbie

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Old 11-25-2013, 09:15 PM
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Default Re-gearing for 35's newbie

I just got 35" tires and am thinking of upgrading to 4.10 or 4.56 gears since all I have is 3.55 gears. I am a total newb at this kinda stuff.
My truck is an 06 XLT 4.6l V8 4x4.
What are some good brands of gears? Approximate cost to regear? When I was looking online it was talking about splines like 31 spline and 28 spline? Also for the front gears it was talking about reverse rotation and for the rear it was talking about irs. What is irs?
Thanks for any help

Last edited by trapshooter; 11-25-2013 at 09:29 PM.
Old 11-25-2013, 09:44 PM
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IRS is independent rear suspension. Expeditions have that not f150s. With the 4.6 I would recommend 4.56 unless you do a lot of highway driving. 4.10s if you do lots of driving above 65. The front will need reverse rotation. I would call Wayne at diffsonly.com or go to a local off road shop to get an idea of what you need. When I had mine redone my truck only had 60k miles so I didn't get new seals. Mine was just under 1000 to regear both axles to 4.56 but from a small local off road shop. Tons of low end grunt although I had the 5.4. More common cost is around 1500-1800 from the big shops.
Old 11-25-2013, 09:54 PM
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Yeah since it's a 4x4 it's going to cost you way more than 2wd. I would guess around 1800-2000 to regear to 4.56
Old 11-25-2013, 10:03 PM
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Originally Posted by HardcoreOffroading
Yeah since it's a 4x4 it's going to cost you way more than 2wd. I would guess around 1800-2000 to regear to 4.56
Hmm $1400 buts to install seems like a lots. I got a quote of about $500 for the parts. Yukon gears. I guess I better save some more
Old 11-25-2013, 11:21 PM
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Im going with 4.10's I also have 35" tires. I was looking to take it back to more of a stock feel. I do a lot of high way but also wanted more grunt for light towing and general passing/ hill climbing power. 4.10 will result in very close to stock no accounting for the added mass of the larger tires. 4.5+'s will defiantly give you more power but at the cost of having a wrapped out engine on the highway.
Old 11-25-2013, 11:30 PM
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When I did mine it was summer and I just unbolted one driveshaft and did it. Then a Few paychecks later did the other and put the drive shaft back on. Things have changed with the ECU's. Don't know if U can get away with that now.
Old 11-25-2013, 11:44 PM
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Originally Posted by dieseltwitch
Im going with 4.10's I also have 35" tires. I was looking to take it back to more of a stock feel. I do a lot of high way but also wanted more grunt for light towing and general passing/ hill climbing power. 4.10 will result in very close to stock no accounting for the added mass of the larger tires. 4.5+'s will defiantly give you more power but at the cost of having a wrapped out engine on the highway.
what do you mean wrapped out engine on the highway?
Old 11-25-2013, 11:52 PM
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Originally Posted by trapshooter
what do you mean wrapped out engine on the highway?
It means that if you go with 4.56:1 or higher your RPMs will be higher for a given speed. Lets say you have 3.73:1 gears in there now, with 35" in tires. Then at 80 MPH your motor will be doing roughly 2800 RPM's... if you changed out to 4.56:1 then you motor will be doing around 3500 RPM's at 80 MPH... these numbers are probably not actuate for a given speed but but you get the idea.
Old 11-25-2013, 11:53 PM
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Originally Posted by trapshooter
what do you mean wrapped out engine on the highway?
High rpms at highway speeds. 65 you'll be over or near 2000. If 75 it will be even higher causing bad highway mileage.
Old 11-25-2013, 11:56 PM
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will 4.10s be cheaper then 4.56?


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