04 F150 spark plug torque specs
04-19-2011, 01:10 PM
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
04 F150 spark plug torque specs
Changing the plugs in my 04 f150 5.4 this week and wondering if someone could tell me what your suppose to torque the spark plugs to. already did a search cant seem to find what the spark plugs are suppose to be torqued to.
04-19-2011, 08:50 PM
#3
bossman
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: michigan
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
so ive heard all the bad things about changing spark plugs, and then having to take it to the dealer cause of the spark plugs breaking off. im about to change mine as well. let me know how it goes for you.
04-19-2011, 08:53 PM
#4
For you guys changing plugs out tomorrow, here is a re-post of a how to success story. Good luck guys.
Change them cold.
Lots of nightmare and success stories on this board. I changed mine at 97,000 miles without any trouble whatsoever by doing the following.
1) Weekend before, do a Seafoam treatment to help remove the carbon build up.
2) Remove the ECM and bracket located on the passenger side to ease access to the rear plugs on that side.
3) Remove COPS, and thoroughly blow out plug wells with compressed air. (Not having a compressor, I picked up a accessory kit for the shop vac at Home Depot and used that.)
4) Spray just enough Kroil penetrating oil into the plug wells to almost cover the nut. DO NOT LOOSEN THE PLUGS YET! Let the plugs soak several hours. Some of the Kroil will get past the seat and literally melt the carbon build up even while the plug is still tight.
5) Start backing out the plugs. There will be a "snapping sound" when the seat is first broken. If the plug offers little or no resistance, just back it on out. 6 of 8 on mine came out without resistance past the first 1/4 turn at all. For the plugs that do offer resistance, pour a half cap-full of carburator cleaner in the the wells after the inital 1/4 turn. Patience. Let soak for at least 30 minutes. Set torque wrench to 20ft lbs and work back and forth until free. (Caution! Some torque wrenches only work for tightening. Alternatively, use a stubby ratchet, or simply use common sense and remain patient and do not apply excessive force)
6) Forget the Champion plugs. Use Motorcraft plugs. Apply a small amount of Nickel Anti Seize to the sleeve. One caution. The small anti seize packets sold at the parts store is not nickel. You'll have to buy the 8oz. can from either the Ford Dealer, or order it online.
This is important. Use just enough anti-seize to create a thin coat. Stay 1/4 inch back from the electrode. Failure to do so can cause a misfire.
Also, against common advice, apply a touch of anti-seize to the plug thread, staying away from the seat. This normally is not recommended because thinking is that when torquing the plug in, it results in a little more torque than the 25lbs recommended. Since the threads in the head are already lubricated by the Kroil, whats the difference? I was concerned that the penetrating oil on the threads could become varnish over time from heat and cause problems on the next change. Hence the application of a small amount of anti seize to the threads.
7) Inspect the COP boots carefully, and replace any that are cracked or stiff. I reused all of mine. Apply dielectric grease liberally to the inside of the boots.
If one decides to use the Champions, all the boots should be changed. The insulators are shaped different.
When reinstalling the COPS, turn them sideways away from their mounting points just enough so the cops can be firmly pushed down ensuring the spring engages the plug. Then turn back to the mounting position and install.
Good luck!
Change them cold.
Lots of nightmare and success stories on this board. I changed mine at 97,000 miles without any trouble whatsoever by doing the following.
1) Weekend before, do a Seafoam treatment to help remove the carbon build up.
2) Remove the ECM and bracket located on the passenger side to ease access to the rear plugs on that side.
3) Remove COPS, and thoroughly blow out plug wells with compressed air. (Not having a compressor, I picked up a accessory kit for the shop vac at Home Depot and used that.)
4) Spray just enough Kroil penetrating oil into the plug wells to almost cover the nut. DO NOT LOOSEN THE PLUGS YET! Let the plugs soak several hours. Some of the Kroil will get past the seat and literally melt the carbon build up even while the plug is still tight.
5) Start backing out the plugs. There will be a "snapping sound" when the seat is first broken. If the plug offers little or no resistance, just back it on out. 6 of 8 on mine came out without resistance past the first 1/4 turn at all. For the plugs that do offer resistance, pour a half cap-full of carburator cleaner in the the wells after the inital 1/4 turn. Patience. Let soak for at least 30 minutes. Set torque wrench to 20ft lbs and work back and forth until free. (Caution! Some torque wrenches only work for tightening. Alternatively, use a stubby ratchet, or simply use common sense and remain patient and do not apply excessive force)
6) Forget the Champion plugs. Use Motorcraft plugs. Apply a small amount of Nickel Anti Seize to the sleeve. One caution. The small anti seize packets sold at the parts store is not nickel. You'll have to buy the 8oz. can from either the Ford Dealer, or order it online.
This is important. Use just enough anti-seize to create a thin coat. Stay 1/4 inch back from the electrode. Failure to do so can cause a misfire.
Also, against common advice, apply a touch of anti-seize to the plug thread, staying away from the seat. This normally is not recommended because thinking is that when torquing the plug in, it results in a little more torque than the 25lbs recommended. Since the threads in the head are already lubricated by the Kroil, whats the difference? I was concerned that the penetrating oil on the threads could become varnish over time from heat and cause problems on the next change. Hence the application of a small amount of anti seize to the threads.
7) Inspect the COP boots carefully, and replace any that are cracked or stiff. I reused all of mine. Apply dielectric grease liberally to the inside of the boots.
If one decides to use the Champions, all the boots should be changed. The insulators are shaped different.
When reinstalling the COPS, turn them sideways away from their mounting points just enough so the cops can be firmly pushed down ensuring the spring engages the plug. Then turn back to the mounting position and install.
Good luck!
04-19-2011, 09:02 PM
#5
Senior Member
Also, against common advice, apply a touch of anti-seize to the plug thread, staying away from the seat. This normally is not recommended because thinking is that when torquing the plug in, it results in a little more torque than the 25lbs recommended. Since the threads in the head are already lubricated by the Kroil, whats the difference? I was concerned that the penetrating oil on the threads could become varnish over time from heat and cause problems on the next change. Hence the application of a small amount of anti seize to the threads.!
Make sure you guys read through the spark plug stickey thread I wrote to make sure you know the risks before starting.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...09-07-a-56871/
04-19-2011, 09:08 PM
#6
I torqued mine to 26 ft lbs. The box says 25-27 so i went with something in the middle.
I changed my plugs 2 weeks ago and broke 3 out of 8 with 117,200 miles.
I pulled it in the garage after a 20 mile trip, so the engine was up temp. I pulled the battery out and took the PCM and bracket off and started on the passenger side. I pulled one COP off at a time and sprayed Gum Out Carb Cleaner into the hole as I went. Once I had all the COPs off on the passenger side I started with plug #1 and worked my way back. The engine was warm while doing this and all the plugs came out without a problem. Once I got to the drivers side the engine was cold and I did the same process as I did before and only 1 came out, the other 3 broke. I'm not sure if it's because the engine was cold or not. When I installed the boots I found it easier to put them on the plug first then put the COP on. It's kind of a pain to try and get the boot and COP finangled around in there with the limited space.
It's really not as bad as it seems. Believe me, as soon as I put the ratchet on the first plug I was nervous not knowing what I was getting into. If you have the Lisle tool it's a piece of cake.
For me to do it myself it cost $208. That's new COP boots from Rock Auto, Lisle tool from Amazon, Nickel Anti seize from Amazon, 8 MC Sp-507 spark plugs from Advance, Dialectic Grease and the spark plug socket from Amazon. It took about 4 hours to do but saved some cash doing it myself.
I changed my plugs 2 weeks ago and broke 3 out of 8 with 117,200 miles.
I pulled it in the garage after a 20 mile trip, so the engine was up temp. I pulled the battery out and took the PCM and bracket off and started on the passenger side. I pulled one COP off at a time and sprayed Gum Out Carb Cleaner into the hole as I went. Once I had all the COPs off on the passenger side I started with plug #1 and worked my way back. The engine was warm while doing this and all the plugs came out without a problem. Once I got to the drivers side the engine was cold and I did the same process as I did before and only 1 came out, the other 3 broke. I'm not sure if it's because the engine was cold or not. When I installed the boots I found it easier to put them on the plug first then put the COP on. It's kind of a pain to try and get the boot and COP finangled around in there with the limited space.
It's really not as bad as it seems. Believe me, as soon as I put the ratchet on the first plug I was nervous not knowing what I was getting into. If you have the Lisle tool it's a piece of cake.
For me to do it myself it cost $208. That's new COP boots from Rock Auto, Lisle tool from Amazon, Nickel Anti seize from Amazon, 8 MC Sp-507 spark plugs from Advance, Dialectic Grease and the spark plug socket from Amazon. It took about 4 hours to do but saved some cash doing it myself.
04-19-2011, 09:11 PM
#7
25 ft-lbs is correct, but I advise against antisiezing the threads. Make sure you clean off whatever penetrating oil you use, not doing so can allow the plugs to back out, resulting in more misfires... guess how I know.
Make sure you guys read through the spark plug stickey thread I wrote to make sure you know the risks before starting.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...09-07-a-56871/
Make sure you guys read through the spark plug stickey thread I wrote to make sure you know the risks before starting.
https://www.f150forum.com/f4/5-4l-3v...09-07-a-56871/
Trending Topics
04-21-2011, 10:50 PM
#10
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: New Jersey
Posts: 226
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Well took all 8 plugs out tonight with out having any break off. The night before I pulled all the coil packs out and sprayed pb blaster in each hole and let it sit for 24 hrs till today. Then today took the plugs out with not much trouble.