vintageman

Well the time has come to replace the passenger side exhaust manifold on my 2004 F150 5.4 3v 4WD. A few months ago, I had to use some of the putty that hardens like steel on a hole that I found and now that the weather is getting cooler here, I figure I should change it over the next couple of weeks. There is a shop here that has stated that they will change it out for $650 and $50 for each broken stud, does anyone think that is more than the norm for this job. I know it's a big job and to tell the truth, I would rather do it myself than have someone else that I really do not know work on my truck. Has anyone created a step-by-step with pictures here? Or should I just let the shop do it because that is a good price and the job is a pain in the ****? Waiting on your opinions and advice.

Tom

Liscomb21

I was just quoted $900 for parts and labor to change out that side . Said it is a minimum of 8 hrs of labor because if there is any broken studs plus he said that they have to jack up the right side of the motor to get to the studs behind the spring . So I would love to do it myself but I wouldn't know if I could get the broken studs out if they did break on me . Another one of ford's lousy designs on this truck .

vintageman

Yea, I have a right angle drill that is small enough to fit in there and am confident that with a little time, I could get it done but, with a back that is normally in some kind of pain, I don't want to agitate it more. I do have a neighbor who up until a few months ago, was a mechanic at Fords for 18 years (layoffs suck) that I may ask what he would charge. But overall, I really don't think that the price is too bad considering it would be done by a reputable shop that will stand behind their work.

Good luck on yours as well
Tom

screamineagle

Price doesn't sound too terrible. But be prepared for a higher bill, there likely will be broken studs. Mine has been leaking for 2 years and has managed to break a stud on its own without being touched. I assume due to being warped.

Rick's 06

Has your truck lived it's whole life in Georgia? If so, your studs might come out just fine. My truck has lived in NC and SC and I was looking at my exhaust manifolds and the studs appear to be like new. There's basically no rust on them, so I would hope they would come out. I'd still soak them in some PB Blaster for good measure if I was going to do it myself though. And since you've already got your right angle drill motor, seems like this job has your name on it. I feel for ya on your back. Seems like it goes with the territory if you're over fifty like me. Haha. Keep us posted.

vintageman

Thanks for the vote of confidence Rick, my truck has lived from NC to Georgia but never any further north or south. Whether I do it or not, I plan on trying to hit the studs with penetrating oil at least once every day for a few days before the change and then making sure all studs get changed out. If figure if all the nuts come off good, I will put a couple nuts back on, and then tighten the inner one so that the studs turn out. My real concern other than my back, is being able to get to everything because it is so cramped in there. What is probably going on is that I am overthinking this too much, I did my phasers, timing gear and lash adjusters with no issues at all, how hard can this be. I just need to get my butt to stop procrastinating and get to it. If I do it, I will take pics of the complete process for a new "how to" for others.

Tom

Liscomb21

If it's successful for you then maybe you can come up here to iowa and show me how it's done. Lol if it does work would love to see pics because I'm thinking I could do it it's just the fact is the muffler shop said that the only way to get to some of the studs is to jack up that side of the motor and that could be another can of worms . Keep us posted and let us know how it goes

vintageman

It will probably be a couple weeks until I get some time to do it, if I do it myself that is. Work is just too hectic for me to try to get it done in just a day, I really don't want to rush it. Maybe an hour or two of work, an hour or two nap, then back at it, hey, it worked when I did my phasers, so why mess with a technique that works. I will post back when I get it done.

Tom

Redneckstone

I did two of these both on a 2008 5.4L this month..


first one was mine, has 72k on it. always a MI truck so salt. no broken studs, came out fine, pain the *** but fine. manifold was cracked all the way around besides about 0.5" worth. it took me about 9 hours.


second one was on my parents 08 with 60k on it. also MI truck, no broken studs come out fine. that one was starting to crack but had a bad gasket. that one took me 4 hours....



I'll let you in on some things I figured out that helped shave 4 hours off. Do the usual:

• remove the motor mount nuts
• remove the starter (pain in the ***)
• unbolt the A/C pump, leave the lines on (you will need two people to install those lines fight you putting it back on)
• have a large combination of extensions, swivels short and long sockets, ratchet wrenches

Here is one of the tricks I figured out. they say lift the engine till the upper intake hits the fire wall... ok *******s that gets you like 3/4". screw that remove the intake tube then remove the upper intake.. you will get about 4-5" now that will save your *** on working on this thing.


next get all the ones you can with interesting extentions and swivels just impact off, this way almost always insured the stud and nut came out as a set.... THANK GOD when that happens. now if the nut comes off and the stud stays in make sure you have a good stud puller socket, worked like a charm every time. the manifold will need to come out from the bottom and go back in that way. I found putting the lower studs in, having someone to help guide you both getting the intake in helps, you dont need to remove the y-pipe if you dont want too just have the lower person hang on the exhaust and it will give enough room to get it back up in the hole.


good luck and have fun! lol

Martian

I always hear that the bolts / studs are hidden behind the shock tower. Why not just take out the whole thing, spring and all, to get to them? Serious question because I don't know how much work that would involve, but it seems easier than lifting up the whole engine.