BooZiggy

Hello all-

I recently got a 2007 F150 with the 5.4, has the "kick" between 40 & 50 MPH, and am going to attempt to do the plugs next weekend.

Question is this- is there any difference in the porcelain extraction tools? I see the Cal-Van tool on Amazon, and its reviews are split- 5 say it worked, 5 say it didn't work. As far as I can tell from the picture though, the Cal-Van tool looks exactly the same as the OEM porcelain extraction kit. Only think I can think of is if the tube of adhesive is different.

Anyone have any first hand knowledge of this? My gut tells me the tools are essentially the same, and the negative reviews stem from the SOB'in aspect of the job, and they would've had the same problem with the OEM tool.

Thanks

MGD

Hi.

Most folks use, and have good luck with, the Lisle 65600 tool. It's multipurpose, as the plug breakage failure modes include more than just porcelain extraction.

http://www.lislecorp.com/divisions/p...s/?product=484

http://www.denlorstools.com/home/dt1...65600_alt.html

The true OEM tool is made by Rotunda and it ain't cheap:

http://www.etoolcart.com/spx-spark-p...-303-1203.aspx

Good luck with the job! Hope yall have all the required supplies and procedures on hand.

MGD

BooZiggy

Thanks MGD-

I did order the Lisle tool as well- my understanding was that it was a good idea to have both tools handy for the job, per GatorB8's sticky on the 5.4 plug issue. Was I reading that incorrectly? Does the Lisle tool also do what the Cal-Van porecelain tool is designed to do? In the TSB it looks like both tools are referred to for use depending on the way the plug breaks.

1917-1911M

There is a long and winding thread on this somewhere nearby. Plenty of posts, plenty of pictures, plenty of disucssion. The Lisle tool works fine. You will have broken chips of porcelain with a broken plug. All you need is compressed air to blow the chips out before removing the ground electrode.

It works like this. After all the prep which I'm not sure does any good at all, you remove the coil over and set aside. Then you carefully or not try to remove the plugs which are deep into the valve cover. You can buy a special pivoting extension and socket at Auto Zone specifically for this. $10 or so. If when you are removing the plugs you hear squealing and squawking...that is good. If you don't...the ground electrode has likely separated from the top of the plug. You then need to use the Lisle tool.

Step one is to remove the broken off top portion of the plug. Blow out the hole. Insert the proper section of the listle and screw into the threads in the head. Screw down the pusher to drive the ceramic down so that the reverse threaded second tool can get a grip on the inside of the steel ground strap. At this point the cylinder is still sealed from any debris. So, give it a good blowing out again to remove all loose ceramic particles.

Don't worry about pushing the steel ground electrode down into the cylinder. It is flared at the top and won't go down. Next drop in the centering guide and the reverse threaded rod. Tighten it into the steel insert and then use the tool to pull the remaining portion of the plug out. there should be no debris left to fall into the cylinder.

The worst case is when the threaded base of the top of the plug snaps in two. You then have to use an appropriate sized ezy-out to remove the base of the plug. With luck the ground electrode comes out with it.....but you likely won't be that lucky. There are long nozzles that you can use to reach down into the plug recess for a good compressed air blowing out. M1911

BooZiggy

Thanks guys. Yes, I've read a ton of the posts on this procedure, and still have decided to try it myself. I figure a shot at saving hundreds of $$ is worth it. I also take satisfaction, as most of us do, in doing something myself.

So I am going to arm myself with the Lisle tool, the special socket extension, the TSB, some Kroil, already have Sea Foam going through the tank, etc, etc. From the sounds of it I should also probably get some Rosary Beads, a Buddha statue, Star of David, a horseshoe up my butt....try and cover as many bases as possible.

1917-1911M

The odd thing is I used about five cans of Seafoam and four or five of my plugs broke anyway. I broke them loose as recommended by Ford, soaked with carbon remover cleaner. Worked the plugs back and forth. I've changed a few thousand plugs in my life, and these still broke. The odd thing though and I posted pictures in the long thread is that the Seafoam cleaned the lower ground straps to the point that they were very clean, looking like 10K mile plugs.....but they still broke. I'm of the opinion they break or not when you first loosen them just a bit. The Lisle tool works so good I would not even worry with all the prep....I'd just go in there after them. If they break, the tool will make short work of removing them. M1911

edit, I sent my tool for free to a member in Florida who removed his plugs with it and then passed it on again for free. I have not been keeping up with who might have it now.