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Fascinating thread, and like many of you I am chasing a similar problem.
Facts of the case:
2005 F150 Lariat
5.4 lt
95,000 miles
Symptoms
Loud tapping / clicking, sound like diesel
When I check with stethoscope, I hear tapping on drivers side, near phaser
Engine runs strong, but if I stop sudden ( cruising at 50 then hit stop light) the engine will buck and surge, like timing is way off. If I put in neutral and rev the accelerator gently it drops into stable idle.
I did get an O430 code Catalyst System Efficiency Below Threshold (Bank 2)
Otherwise no serious symptoms
I read the entire thread, if I missed it sorry, but had a couple questions:
1. I just bought the truck 2 months ago so do not know the oil change history. It sounds like much of the phaser / solenoid related problems are oil sludge related. Is there any effective way to de-sludge? Everything I have heard sounds inconclusive
2. I never have rough idle unless there is a sudden drop in speed ( as described) that sounds to me like the phaser is “sticking “at wrong position – anyone have similar experience?
3. The engine code does not seem to fit anyone else get a 0430?
My plan is to replace the solenoids first, and visually inspect under the valve cover for sludge. Then plugs, just because they are due.
If no improvement, then phases
Then if no improvement Timing chain and tensioners
How does that sound for plan of action ( and any answers to questions above would be appreciated)
Thanks!
Scott
Without writing a novel the best way to avoid having sludging issues is don't use extended oil change intervals and use only a real synthetic with a GOOD filter. If you are looking at buying a 3V motor, 4.6 or 5.4, always, ALWAYS, open the oil fill cap and take a strong flashlight and look down the tube. If it looks like the bottom of your mug of hot chocolate when you have finished it then run don't walk away from that vehicle. Because when you pull the cam cover you will find this:
This motor had 92,000 miles. It shouldn't look like this. This was 5000 mile oil changes and ****ty filters. It killed the cam journals (thanks Ford for not putting in bearings there idiots) VCT and tensioners which led to a chain guide breaking and the chain tapping the front cover.
This is a motor I had pulled from a 3000 mile OCI car. This IS A USED MOTOR BTW. But how a motor should look when a full syn and good filter are used and changed at 3K consistently. This motor had around 65K miles but looks brand new.
Kreen is the only effective way of getting into the passages that really matter and breaking down the sludge enough to allow adequate oil flow to the critical tight tolerance parts that need them. I had tried many "other" engine cleaners and they don't work. Kreen has the most success but don't expect miracles.
Without writing a novel the best way to avoid having sludging issues is don't use extended oil change intervals and use only a real synthetic with a GOOD filter. If you are looking at buying a 3V motor, 4.6 or 5.4, always, ALWAYS, open the oil fill cap and take a strong flashlight and look down the tube. If it looks like the bottom of your mug of hot chocolate when you have finished it then run don't walk away from that vehicle. Because when you pull the cam cover you will find this:
This motor had 92,000 miles. It shouldn't look like this. This was 5000 mile oil changes and ****ty filters. It killed the cam journals (thanks Ford for not putting in bearings there idiots) VCT and tensioners which led to a chain guide breaking and the chain tapping the front cover.
This is a motor I had pulled from a 3000 mile OCI car. This IS A USED MOTOR BTW. But how a motor should look when a full syn and good filter are used and changed at 3K consistently. This motor had around 65K miles but looks brand new.
4.6...are you the owner of the varnished 92K mile motor?
Yes. I pulled that motor with 130K and it was still running but with the aforementioned issues. The first three pics of the engine removed were at 130K. The last pic of just the valve cover was at 92K miles shortly after I purchased the car and realized there was an issue. I had some records of the service done to the car from the dealer so I know it had those extended oil change intervals.
I recommend anyone having rough idling and poor economy/phaser issues to first replace the VCT solenoid and go from there. There have been some revisions on those parts and can make a world of difference.
03-27-2016, 08:51 PM
