beantown617

Was doing some rust treatment on the frame and was curious what this plastic cover is for. In the pic it is mounted on the front driver side of the frame. It seems like its mounted with pins on each side but didnt want to break anything trying to pop it off... Any clarification of whats behind there/how to remove without breaking anything? Thanks
Jon

maxpat82

rear harness connector (including fuel pump)

If you don't know it's because you never changed your fuel filter.....might be a good idea to do it

beantown617

Did you mean to say never changed my fuel "pump"? Have changed the fuel filter and its not behind that plastic cover...

Do you know if i can i just pry off the cover or is there a trick on popping it without breaking any plastic pins?
Thanks
Jon

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

Squeeze the sides and pop it off.. It just clicks into place.. There's nothing but connectors behind there..

You sure could use a good wire wheeling on that frame.. Looks like Boston has treated you well beantown.. Lol!

My MA frame looks good thanks to annual coats of paint on the frame, welds, and exhaust.. Religious washing is also the key..

ford4wd08

Glad I don't have to deal with that. My 95 f150 frame wasn't that bad when I sold it in 2009! Love the south lol

beantown617

OK thanks. Yea - that was how it looked after I went to town with a pneumatic needle scaler. There was a flaking topcoat, and that's what I found behind it. I wire wheeled it as best as I could after I took those pictures then did a coat of Eastwood Rust Encapsulator. I only did that front side and cross members as a test area.. also got some of the rubberized rust encapsulator and internal frame coating all from Eastwood that I'm going to try out. My exhaust rotted out and just recently replaced with a stainless cat back SI/SO.

Whatever the PO used to coat the frame and cab underbody was pretty crappy, and from carfax all previous owners have been in NH and MA..... I have also been religiously washing (got a monthly pass) since I got it this summer. Over the next couple weekends I plan to do a full comb through for rust using the needle scaler and wirebrush then painting with the rust encapsulator. Will take off the bed to get better access to frame and rear under the bed.

What do you use for coating? I think I saw a picture of your frame from some other older post and it looked immaculate.

Thanks
Jon

Especial86

iTrader: (1)

I just use duplicolor u1000 black on my frame... My truck came from Virginia thankfully, so I've had a nice clean slate to maintain.. It's been in MA for over 5 years now with me and I've got very very little rust to contend with... My spare tire rim is very rusty, but that's because I just haven't kept up with it.. I do have cab corner rust unfortunately, I didn't see that coming because it started from the inside out..

But fear not.. I did have a very rusty NH bronco that I lifted and cleaned up.. Unfortunately it was so rusty I had to weld new body mounts and radiator core to cab mounts all around.. I sandblasted the frame with a cheap husky gun from Home Depot and a mix of walnut media, and coarse sand I made a small pile of in the yard.. I drove the truck over the pile, and shot that frame for hours.. It was a mess but it worked really good on all the tree bark rust.. I wire wheeled the rest with my drill and then coated everything in POR 15.. I later top coated with the cheap rubberized undercoating from wal mart and then sprayed that stuff black and every year annually.... No pics of the bronco unfortunately..





Here's a pic of mine from this summers suspension rebuild.. I cleaned what little rust I saw at the welds with a wire brush and gave it yet another coat of u1000 black.. Still looking good right now..

bill2014

I did my whole frame two years ago with POR15. this stuff is great. it is expensive but worth every cent. I live in western MA where the roads are covered in salt twice as much as Boston. but anyways I love this stuff. it has not shown any signs of deterioration at all and still looks like I just painted it. it has two downsides though. it is about $40 a quart but it goes on very thin and I did my whole frame and axle with one quart and had a little left over and if you get it on your skin, you better get used to it cause it will be there for about a month and there is nothing and I mean nothing that can take it off. the stuff is hard as rock when it's dry. I then did my whole internal frame with Eastwood internal frame coater, followed this with some fluid film on the body. I would suggest a wire cone for a grinder like this to take the rust off. then use por metal ready to chemically etch the frame to accept the paint. then sit back and never worry about rust again. I do still wags mine though.

beantown617

Thanks for the writeup bill. I'm actually in west springfield currently and know what u mean when saying its worst with snow and salt (origianally from boston).

Ive hear the por15 is great, but only stayed away from it cuz i heard its nasty stuff if u get it on u or breathe any fumes in. The eastwood is about the same cost.... Gets pricey but if either work its worth it to me than have stuff rust out.

How many cans of the internal frame coating it take to do the whole frame? Were you able to get full coverage with the extension tube/diffuser nozzle?

Thanks
Jon

maxpat82

The fuel pump connection is in the harness behind it.
You need to disconnect the harness to releive pressure in the system. Not 100% needed but it make the replacement not spray feel everywhere and in your face while you're on your back under the truck :|


You guys never rustproof your vehicule?
My 07 look like new. Rustproofing every year is the key.
I'm in Montreal and they use plenty of salt/calcium here too!
75$ a year to have it done is way easier then brushing/painting the thing every year.