uzikaduzi

actually i found this
"Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10"

here on https://www.f150forum.com/f6/chang-e...anifold-67069/
looks like the same numbers are on a ton of forms. I can't imagine a very controlled scientific way one would go about this because it seems every bolt/nut would rust or seaze slightly different... maybe take 100's and 100's of rusty bolts and take the average?

screamineagle

Did you have to raise the engine any for clearance?

pauld64

Don't know on 150's, but on super duties suck.

pauld64

I should say I get paid to do these and they suck. Raised the motor one side at a time while doing that side to remove manifolds. V-10's notorious for this. What tools do you have at you're availability?

uzikaduzi

i have normal hand tools... a grinder, some air tools... i'm gonna buy a small right angled air drill and some left hand bits. I've never had good luck with the screw type easy outs (always seem to snap on the smaller sizes. but i saw someone recommended these http://www.homedepot.com/p/URREA-1-8...500A/202797903

x40oz

How bad is your leak? How do you know you have one? It is worse when engine cold and get quiet after warms up?

uzikaduzi

i can see the flat black carbon in between the rear two cylinders on the gasket. (which isn't present between the first two cylinders on that side or in between any of the cylinders on the driver's side). i also took it to the dealer and they said they can see the manifold is cracked (hoping that it would be covered under that emissions warranty...but i can't see a crack at all) i can tell you when i spray Kriol on the bolts closest to the most rear cylinder, it seems like it's actually seeping in between the gasket and the exhaust manifold and the head and the gasket. I know that can be deceiving but around the other cylinders it doesn't seem to do that. it's worse when it's cold but it never goes away.

uzikaduzi

I've read on other forums that you don't but it's easier... I can't see how you'd even begin to get to the lower bolts with the frame and strut tower where it is without removing the motor mount and jacking up the one side

screamineagle

Worse when cold. It's the typical tick tick tick that's very annoying. Quiets down completely when warm but it's just gonna get worse.

putermech

Yes, because you need all the room you can. Make sure to keep the front level, because the pipes won't fit back if the truck is not squared up. So use a jackstand on each side. This will also help when placing the plastic wheel-well liner back in.