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Old 04-01-2014, 05:55 PM   #11
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actually i found this
"Penetrating oil . Average load .. Price per fluid ounce
None ................. 516 pounds .
WD-40 .............. 238 pounds .. $0.25
PB Blaster ......... 214 pounds .. $0.35
Liquid Wrench ... 127 pounds .. $0.21
Kano Kroil ........ 106 pounds .. $0.75
ATF-Acetone mix.. 53 pounds .. $0.10"

here on http://www.f150forum.com/f6/chang-ex...anifold-67069/
looks like the same numbers are on a ton of forms. I can't imagine a very controlled scientific way one would go about this because it seems every bolt/nut would rust or seaze slightly different... maybe take 100's and 100's of rusty bolts and take the average?
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Old 04-01-2014, 06:47 PM   #12
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I replaced mine last summer. I used a can of PB Blaster everyday a week prior to removal. I had no broken studs. Besure to remove the sway bar for extra room. Also have some semi-fine sandpaper to remove the old gasket. This project was the toughtest I have ever done. Good luck.
Did you have to raise the engine any for clearance?
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:20 PM   #13
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Did you have to raise the engine any for clearance?
Don't know on 150's, but on super duties suck.
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Old 04-01-2014, 07:26 PM   #14
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Don't know on 150's, but on super duties suck.
I should say I get paid to do these and they suck. Raised the motor one side at a time while doing that side to remove manifolds. V-10's notorious for this. What tools do you have at you're availability?
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Old 04-02-2014, 10:00 AM   #15
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i have normal hand tools... a grinder, some air tools... i'm gonna buy a small right angled air drill and some left hand bits. I've never had good luck with the screw type easy outs (always seem to snap on the smaller sizes. but i saw someone recommended these http://www.homedepot.com/p/URREA-1-8...500A/202797903
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Old 04-02-2014, 11:42 AM   #16
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Well exhaust manifold is on the list so I would assume it's covered. My 06 has the same issue. Too bad I'm at 190,000!
How bad is your leak? How do you know you have one? It is worse when engine cold and get quiet after warms up?
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Old 04-02-2014, 01:21 PM   #17
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i can see the flat black carbon in between the rear two cylinders on the gasket. (which isn't present between the first two cylinders on that side or in between any of the cylinders on the driver's side). i also took it to the dealer and they said they can see the manifold is cracked (hoping that it would be covered under that emissions warranty...but i can't see a crack at all) i can tell you when i spray Kriol on the bolts closest to the most rear cylinder, it seems like it's actually seeping in between the gasket and the exhaust manifold and the head and the gasket. I know that can be deceiving but around the other cylinders it doesn't seem to do that. it's worse when it's cold but it never goes away.
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Old 04-02-2014, 01:23 PM   #18
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Did you have to raise the engine any for clearance?
I've read on other forums that you don't but it's easier... I can't see how you'd even begin to get to the lower bolts with the frame and strut tower where it is without removing the motor mount and jacking up the one side
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Old 04-02-2014, 06:48 PM   #19
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How bad is your leak? How do you know you have one? It is worse when engine cold and get quiet after warms up?
Worse when cold. It's the typical tick tick tick that's very annoying. Quiets down completely when warm but it's just gonna get worse.
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:37 AM   #20
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Did you have to raise the engine any for clearance?
Yes, because you need all the room you can. Make sure to keep the front level, because the pipes won't fit back if the truck is not squared up. So use a jackstand on each side. This will also help when placing the plastic wheel-well liner back in.
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Old 04-03-2014, 09:37 AM
 
 
 
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